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Front dana 30 on 37s

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Old 03-03-2014, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by rockcrawler73
If you're going to go to 37's, I would regear, imho. Another upgrade would be RCV. I've got an '08 with the D30 and it's on 37's, RCV, sleeved, 5.13 gears. Just food for thought. Good luck and let us know how it works for ya... rock
Do you suggest regearing because of the loss of power, or because it would strengthen internal components of the Dana 30? If so what gears would you suggest to accomplish both on a Dana 30?

Also does the fact I have a newer engine from a 13 change anything when referring to power loss because of 37s? or gear selection?

I will be sure to keep all of you updated with pictures and comments of this axle build and movement to 37s.


Originally Posted by n3tfury
Definitely regear.
Alright considering this for sure now.
Old 03-03-2014, 06:49 AM
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Which gears will be a source for debate, but for me, I'm going 4.88's on my 2012 because 1) it's my daily driver 2) i spend a bit of time on the highway 3) i won't be doing anything hardcore in regards to rock crawling (but I would like to after I upgrade my axles and get lockers)
Old 03-03-2014, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jeep_pride
Do you suggest regearing because of the loss of power, or because it would strengthen internal components of the Dana 30? If so what gears would you suggest to accomplish both on a Dana 30? Also does the fact I have a newer engine from a 13 change anything when referring to power loss because of 37s? or gear selection? I will be sure to keep all of you updated with pictures and comments of this axle build and movement to 37s. Alright considering this for sure now.
Larger gears are actually weaker. 4.88 is about as high as you want to go in a D30.

You will definitely want to regear for 37s. I had 3.73 on my 2013 with 35s (6 speed) and it was not ideal. No way I'd run that with my 37s. I went 4.88 and it's awesome. You could go 4.56 too. There's plenty of threads to help you choose.

If you need more gearing offroad, swap in a Rubicon transfer case. That's what I did. $500 and 4 hours.

I wouldn't put in RCV axle shafts. Then your weak point is the ring and pinion.
Old 03-03-2014, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by n3tfury
Which gears will be a source for debate, but for me, I'm going 4.88's on my 2012 because 1) it's my daily driver 2) i spend a bit of time on the highway 3) i won't be doing anything hardcore in regards to rock crawling (but I would like to after I upgrade my axles and get lockers)
Great input, I will use my for the same. My commutes are relatively short. If I had to guess my drive time in a week I would say maybe 45 minutes. I don't drive much at all, mainly a fun ride for weekends and wheeling. But it's my daily driver too because it's what I use if I public trans stops services.



Originally Posted by Invest2m4
Larger gears are actually weaker. 4.88 is about as high as you want to go in a D30. You will definitely want to regear for 37s. I had 3.73 on my 2013 with 35s (6 speed) and it was not ideal. No way I'd run that with my 37s. I went 4.88 and it's awesome. You could go 4.56 too. There's plenty of threads to help you choose. If you need more gearing offroad, swap in a Rubicon transfer case. That's what I did. $500 and 4 hours. I wouldn't put in RCV axle shafts. Then your weak point is the ring and pinion.
So if larger is weaker, then strength wouldn't be as big of a problem with stock gear 3.21/3.73? Obviously power would still be an issue, but I don't be as worried of breaking them on the Dana 30?

Ok so if I would upgrade to RCV axle shafts that would transfer my weak point to the gears and pinion(which I'm guessing would be bad because it's more expensive to replace?).

Thanks for your input.
Old 03-03-2014, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jeep_pride
Great input, I will use my for the same. My commutes are relatively short. If I had to guess my drive time in a week I would say maybe 45 minutes. I don't drive much at all, mainly a fun ride for weekends and wheeling. But it's my daily driver too because it's what I use if I public trans stops services.





So if larger is weaker, then strength wouldn't be as big of a problem with stock gear 3.21/3.73? Obviously power would still be an issue, but I don't be as worried of breaking them on the Dana 30?

Ok so if I would upgrade to RCV axle shafts that would transfer my weak point to the gears and pinion(which I'm guessing would be bad because it's more expensive to replace?).

Thanks for your input.
Correct, the stock gears would be stronger. Regardless, you will want to regear at 37s. Out of the gate, you are much better off with the 3.73 option. You also save money on a regear as the carrier doesn't need to be replaced.

RCVs don't break for the most part. So yes, the ring and pinion becomes the weak point. You do have the option to cryo treat the gears when you regear. In theory, that makes a D30 ring and pinion as strong as a D44.

Your best alternative is to just keep an eye out for someone selling their stock Rubicon axles. For example, someone was recently selling a pair of fully built Rubicon axles (pretty much everything that could be done to them, was done). I think they were going for as little as $3500 at one point. Sell yours for $1500, so at a net cost of $2000, you have built D44s, front and rear lockers, etc. I'd do that (and I did) before I do anything other than gusset and sleeve a D30.

One mans opinion anyway.
Old 03-03-2014, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4

Your best alternative is to just keep an eye out for someone selling their stock Rubicon axles. For example, someone was recently selling a pair of fully built Rubicon axles (pretty much everything that could be done to them, was done). I think they were going for as little as $3500 at one point. Sell yours for $1500, so at a net cost of $2000, you have built D44s, front and rear lockers, etc. I'd do that (and I did) before I do anything other than gusset and sleeve a D30.

One mans opinion anyway.
Good point and something I've been considering all last week. I have an MC 3.5 lift, 37 Nittos, etc waiting to get put on, but am second guessing the axle even though I planned to truss, c, and possibly sleeve it during the gear install.
Old 03-03-2014, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by n3tfury
Good point and something I've been considering all last week. I have an MC 3.5 lift, 37 Nittos, etc waiting to get put on, but am second guessing the axle even though I planned to truss, c, and possibly sleeve it during the gear install.
It's a great option. I put my MetalCloak Game Changer on at the same time, so it didn't really add much to the install. All the arms need to come off anyway. A few additional steps, but nothing time consuming.

Btw, if you got the 6Pak shocks, don't truss it. You'll likely have clearance issues.
Old 03-03-2014, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
It's a great option. I put my MetalCloak Game Changer on at the same time, so it didn't really add much to the install. All the arms need to come off anyway. A few additional steps, but nothing time consuming.

Btw, if you got the 6Pak shocks, don't truss it. You'll likely have clearance issues.
Nope, just the ARB edition. Going to add full arms later though. Good to know though for the future!
Old 03-03-2014, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
Correct, the stock gears would be stronger. Regardless, you will want to regear at 37s. Out of the gate, you are much better off with the 3.73 option. You also save money on a regear as the carrier doesn't need to be replaced. RCVs don't break for the most part. So yes, the ring and pinion becomes the weak point. You do have the option to cryo treat the gears when you regear. In theory, that makes a D30 ring and pinion as strong as a D44. Your best alternative is to just keep an eye out for someone selling their stock Rubicon axles. For example, someone was recently selling a pair of fully built Rubicon axles (pretty much everything that could be done to them, was done). I think they were going for as little as $3500 at one point. Sell yours for $1500, so at a net cost of $2000, you have built D44s, front and rear lockers, etc. I'd do that (and I did) before I do anything other than gusset and sleeve a D30. One mans opinion anyway.
I considered selling mine and get rubi 44s but I did the math and I would come out with a sleeved/gusset/gears all installed which is about all I'm planning on doing at most for approximately $400 less than what they are going for here on the forum. I would only give up a few upgrades that I wouldn't "need" to finish my short term build.

Last edited by jeep_pride; 03-03-2014 at 08:57 AM.
Old 03-07-2014, 01:15 PM
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Evo c-gussets came in today. Going to order sleeves and will install them at the same the same time if the price is right. Click image for larger version

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Last edited by jeep_pride; 03-07-2014 at 06:17 PM.


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