Front dana 30 on 37s
#51
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Also does the fact I have a newer engine from a 13 change anything when referring to power loss because of 37s? or gear selection?
I will be sure to keep all of you updated with pictures and comments of this axle build and movement to 37s.
Alright considering this for sure now.
#52
Which gears will be a source for debate, but for me, I'm going 4.88's on my 2012 because 1) it's my daily driver 2) i spend a bit of time on the highway 3) i won't be doing anything hardcore in regards to rock crawling (but I would like to after I upgrade my axles and get lockers)
#53
JK Junkie
Do you suggest regearing because of the loss of power, or because it would strengthen internal components of the Dana 30? If so what gears would you suggest to accomplish both on a Dana 30? Also does the fact I have a newer engine from a 13 change anything when referring to power loss because of 37s? or gear selection? I will be sure to keep all of you updated with pictures and comments of this axle build and movement to 37s. Alright considering this for sure now.
You will definitely want to regear for 37s. I had 3.73 on my 2013 with 35s (6 speed) and it was not ideal. No way I'd run that with my 37s. I went 4.88 and it's awesome. You could go 4.56 too. There's plenty of threads to help you choose.
If you need more gearing offroad, swap in a Rubicon transfer case. That's what I did. $500 and 4 hours.
I wouldn't put in RCV axle shafts. Then your weak point is the ring and pinion.
#54
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Which gears will be a source for debate, but for me, I'm going 4.88's on my 2012 because 1) it's my daily driver 2) i spend a bit of time on the highway 3) i won't be doing anything hardcore in regards to rock crawling (but I would like to after I upgrade my axles and get lockers)
Larger gears are actually weaker. 4.88 is about as high as you want to go in a D30. You will definitely want to regear for 37s. I had 3.73 on my 2013 with 35s (6 speed) and it was not ideal. No way I'd run that with my 37s. I went 4.88 and it's awesome. You could go 4.56 too. There's plenty of threads to help you choose. If you need more gearing offroad, swap in a Rubicon transfer case. That's what I did. $500 and 4 hours. I wouldn't put in RCV axle shafts. Then your weak point is the ring and pinion.
Ok so if I would upgrade to RCV axle shafts that would transfer my weak point to the gears and pinion(which I'm guessing would be bad because it's more expensive to replace?).
Thanks for your input.
#55
JK Junkie
Great input, I will use my for the same. My commutes are relatively short. If I had to guess my drive time in a week I would say maybe 45 minutes. I don't drive much at all, mainly a fun ride for weekends and wheeling. But it's my daily driver too because it's what I use if I public trans stops services.
So if larger is weaker, then strength wouldn't be as big of a problem with stock gear 3.21/3.73? Obviously power would still be an issue, but I don't be as worried of breaking them on the Dana 30?
Ok so if I would upgrade to RCV axle shafts that would transfer my weak point to the gears and pinion(which I'm guessing would be bad because it's more expensive to replace?).
Thanks for your input.
So if larger is weaker, then strength wouldn't be as big of a problem with stock gear 3.21/3.73? Obviously power would still be an issue, but I don't be as worried of breaking them on the Dana 30?
Ok so if I would upgrade to RCV axle shafts that would transfer my weak point to the gears and pinion(which I'm guessing would be bad because it's more expensive to replace?).
Thanks for your input.
RCVs don't break for the most part. So yes, the ring and pinion becomes the weak point. You do have the option to cryo treat the gears when you regear. In theory, that makes a D30 ring and pinion as strong as a D44.
Your best alternative is to just keep an eye out for someone selling their stock Rubicon axles. For example, someone was recently selling a pair of fully built Rubicon axles (pretty much everything that could be done to them, was done). I think they were going for as little as $3500 at one point. Sell yours for $1500, so at a net cost of $2000, you have built D44s, front and rear lockers, etc. I'd do that (and I did) before I do anything other than gusset and sleeve a D30.
One mans opinion anyway.
#56
Your best alternative is to just keep an eye out for someone selling their stock Rubicon axles. For example, someone was recently selling a pair of fully built Rubicon axles (pretty much everything that could be done to them, was done). I think they were going for as little as $3500 at one point. Sell yours for $1500, so at a net cost of $2000, you have built D44s, front and rear lockers, etc. I'd do that (and I did) before I do anything other than gusset and sleeve a D30.
One mans opinion anyway.
#57
JK Junkie
Btw, if you got the 6Pak shocks, don't truss it. You'll likely have clearance issues.
#58
It's a great option. I put my MetalCloak Game Changer on at the same time, so it didn't really add much to the install. All the arms need to come off anyway. A few additional steps, but nothing time consuming.
Btw, if you got the 6Pak shocks, don't truss it. You'll likely have clearance issues.
Btw, if you got the 6Pak shocks, don't truss it. You'll likely have clearance issues.
#59
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Correct, the stock gears would be stronger. Regardless, you will want to regear at 37s. Out of the gate, you are much better off with the 3.73 option. You also save money on a regear as the carrier doesn't need to be replaced. RCVs don't break for the most part. So yes, the ring and pinion becomes the weak point. You do have the option to cryo treat the gears when you regear. In theory, that makes a D30 ring and pinion as strong as a D44. Your best alternative is to just keep an eye out for someone selling their stock Rubicon axles. For example, someone was recently selling a pair of fully built Rubicon axles (pretty much everything that could be done to them, was done). I think they were going for as little as $3500 at one point. Sell yours for $1500, so at a net cost of $2000, you have built D44s, front and rear lockers, etc. I'd do that (and I did) before I do anything other than gusset and sleeve a D30. One mans opinion anyway.
Last edited by jeep_pride; 03-03-2014 at 08:57 AM.
#60
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter