Front dana 30 on 37s
03-01-2014, 11:18 PM
#31
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Anyone running stock gears with the Dana 30 on 37? I know about the loss in power and what not but I'm looking to see the changes of breaks. I heard you want to have lower gears to prevent breaks in that area? What's too low and what's too high? Is there a limit? Thanks. Sorry if I'm bugging you guys. I just would like to know
03-02-2014, 02:18 AM
#32
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37,s wrapped in 20's
complete stock set up on my 2013 jku,, stock dana's no sleeves or gussetts, no wheeling but grueling city commutes and stop and starts daily... no problems, stay tuned, approx 4k miles on jeep 2600 miles on 37s. pics on ""37 club"" thread.
03-02-2014, 04:31 AM
#33
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I'm glad you haven't had any breaks either with this set up. l on holding in thoney aside which I current do but undecided if to use that cash for upgrades or to replace if I need too later on. I don't want to spend on upgrades have it still break then I sht out of luck. You know? So I looking to see my chances here with you guys experiences
He said that it cost around $5500 and the rear was about $3800!! That's almost $10,000.00 bucks.
My point being you could probably gusset up your frt. good enough, unless you get real aggressive on the rocks and
have a a lot left over for what ever..
03-02-2014, 04:50 AM
#34
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Ok guys, I know a lot of you will convince or even trash me for even thinking about it but I thought I hear from people how have tried this set on 37s on Dana 30 stock.
•If you are what are some modifications you have made to prevent a break?
•I know about c-gussets/sleeves/truss but I would like to know if they are worth it and actually prevent breaks.(in other words a good investment)
•and for those who have broken, what is the most likely part to break and why?
I don't wheel as often as I would like, unfortunately college and work doesn't allow me too. So this being said it's mostly a weekend warrior with occasional commuting. The axel itself doesn't currently have ANY modifications and I'm running 35 ATZs no problem been off-road a few times no issues. Almost time to get tires and I would like to invest on 37s.
Thanks! Let's try to be friendly here, good advice
•If you are what are some modifications you have made to prevent a break?
•I know about c-gussets/sleeves/truss but I would like to know if they are worth it and actually prevent breaks.(in other words a good investment)
•and for those who have broken, what is the most likely part to break and why?
I don't wheel as often as I would like, unfortunately college and work doesn't allow me too. So this being said it's mostly a weekend warrior with occasional commuting. The axel itself doesn't currently have ANY modifications and I'm running 35 ATZs no problem been off-road a few times no issues. Almost time to get tires and I would like to invest on 37s.
Thanks! Let's try to be friendly here, good advice
03-02-2014, 06:21 AM
#35
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
This was what I was hoping to hear. I'm glad it can be done! Although I still plan on gussets and maybe sleeves down the road if I feel I should while wheeling just to keep a clam mind. And Unless I have to, I will probably hold off on regearing. And use that cash for a prorock44 later on.
03-02-2014, 06:24 AM
#36
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Update: just purchased the Evo Mfg Axel gussets in preparation for the 37s a few months from now (as most of you guys advised).
I'll keep you guys posted on the installation work and results.
Hopefully will have this come in next week.
Anyone know how much I should expect to be charged for the welding on these gussets?
I'll keep you guys posted on the installation work and results.
Hopefully will have this come in next week.
Anyone know how much I should expect to be charged for the welding on these gussets?
03-02-2014, 06:51 AM
#37
JK Jedi Master
I'm not a fan of the dust seals EVO provides, and recommend leaving them out, especially if you get in mud. Mine trapped mud inside the sleeves, eventually grinding down the Chromolly shafts and causing axle seal leaks on both sides. Had to have shafts turned--thank goodness they could be saved ($650 parts cost). Machinist who turned them says he sees it all the time on shafts that aren't left open to drain. An experienced mudder, he recommends just slathering the axle tube with marine grease by the inner seal.
03-02-2014, 07:14 AM
#38
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Can't answer directly since mine went on with a lot of other front axle work. But it is a fairly big job, both to tear open the axle (pull wheels, calipers, unit bearings and axle shafts), and for the welding (if they follow EVO's instructions): Drill a bunch of holes, then plug weld all of them, as well as weld the tube end.
I'm not a fan of the dust seals EVO provides, and recommend leaving them out, especially if you get in mud. Mine trapped mud inside the sleeves, eventually grinding down the Chromolly shafts and causing axle seal leaks on both sides. Had to have shafts turned--thank goodness they could be saved ($650 parts cost). Machinist who turned them says he sees it all the time on shafts that aren't left open to drain. An experienced mudder, he recommends just slathering the axle tube with marine grease by the inner seal.
03-02-2014, 07:27 AM
#40
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Can't answer directly since mine went on with a lot of other front axle work. But it is a fairly big job, both to tear open the axle (pull wheels, calipers, unit bearings and axle shafts), and for the welding (if they follow EVO's instructions): Drill a bunch of holes, then plug weld all of them, as well as weld the tube end. I'm not a fan of the dust seals EVO provides, and recommend leaving them out, especially if you get in mud. Mine trapped mud inside the sleeves, eventually grinding down the Chromolly shafts and causing axle seal leaks on both sides. Had to have shafts turned--thank goodness they could be saved ($650 parts cost). Machinist who turned them says he sees it all the time on shafts that aren't left open to drain. An experienced mudder, he recommends just slathering the axle tube with marine grease by the inner seal.