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Front dana 30 on 37s

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Old 02-28-2014, 07:57 PM
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Default Front dana 30 on 37s

Ok guys, I know a lot of you will convince or even trash me for even thinking about it but I thought I hear from people how have tried this set on 37s on Dana 30 stock.

•If you are what are some modifications you have made to prevent a break?
•I know about c-gussets/sleeves/truss but I would like to know if they are worth it and actually prevent breaks.(in other words a good investment)
•and for those who have broken, what is the most likely part to break and why?


I don't wheel as often as I would like, unfortunately college and work doesn't allow me too. So this being said it's mostly a weekend warrior with occasional commuting. The axel itself doesn't currently have ANY modifications and I'm running 35 ATZs no problem been off-road a few times no issues. Almost time to get tires and I would like to invest on 37s.

Thanks! Let's try to be friendly here, good advice
Old 02-28-2014, 08:02 PM
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Been running this set up all last summer and held up like a champ! I did manage to shred some gears in the front but it was my fault and could have been prevented. Trying to climb a 3' ledge, gassing it hard, bad Line, and pop goes the gears.

But I ran trails 1-2 times a week ranging from medium to difficult and did fine. No upgrades to the axle and easy on the gas is key.

I don't recommend having this set up as a set plan but don't let it stop you from hitting the trails. Only difference between a 30 and 44 are the gear size and axle shafts.

For me, I'm saving for a PR44 or maybe 60s if I ever go 40s. But I dont let the 30 get in the way of having fun!

like I said, easy on the pedal, dont do any prerunning just yet and have fun!

Here is a video I made. I have the Silver JKU on 37s.
http://youtu.be/PVFvoO6C8Sk

Last edited by JKBANDIT55; 02-28-2014 at 08:07 PM.
Old 02-28-2014, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JKBANDIT55
Been running this set up all last summer and held up like a champ! I did manage to shred some gears in the front but it was my fault and could have been prevented. Trying to climb a 3' ledge, gassing it hard, bad Line, and pop goes the gears. But I ran trails 1-2 times a week ranging from medium to difficult and did fine. No upgrades to the axle and easy on the gas is key. I don't recommend having this set up as a set plan but don't let it stop you from hitting the trails. Only difference between a 30 and 44 are the gear size and axle shafts. For me, I'm saving for a PR44 or maybe 60s if I ever go 40s. But I dont let the 30 get in the way of having fun! like I said, easy on the pedal, dont do any prerunning just yet and have fun! Here is a video I made. I have the Silver JKU on 37s. http://youtu.be/PVFvoO6C8Sk
Thanks for your input. Makes me feel a bit more conferrable transitioning to 37s. Great video man, congrats I could tell you took your time getting everything perfect. Jeep on bro!

Question so if I would regear and get strong axel shafts I would drop my percentages on breaking anything while wheeling? I would love to make a trip like the one you did in Colorado. Seriously I'm fascinated!
Old 03-01-2014, 03:38 AM
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For every example of someone who didn't have an issue, there are plenty that did. Just sold my front D30 to a guy who bent his running 35s. The housing is weak. You could hit a pothole the right way on 37s and bend a C.

If you can't weld, get the Nitro hammer in sleeves. $120 and 4 hours of your time. Much lower risk of bending the axle tubes. You can't predict if you'll be the unlucky guy, but you don't want the expense of buying a new front axle.

I'd really recommend the gussets. Even a slight bend that you can't see, would cause all kinds of handling issues. The C's are very weak.
Old 03-01-2014, 05:53 AM
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I've been running the same setup. Wheeled it too. No issues as of yet. I plan to buy a pro rock 44 unlimited this year after I get a couple other mods.

If you don't go that route wheel it and have fun. Just expect the worse (axle break) and hope for the best. Keep some spare money aside for a new axle just encase you get unlucky.

If you're able to it never hurts to reinforce something. You probably never know how many breaks reinforcing your axle actually prevents. How could one know since it didn't break. If that makes any sense anyway.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 while crawling over mini trucks.

Last edited by D3ADLY; 03-01-2014 at 06:02 AM.
Old 03-01-2014, 05:55 AM
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That's for your input. I've been looking at getting sleeves and gussets but I don't know if it would be a good investment. I don't want to drop 600$ and then still bend it. Which is why I was looking at 44s but people say it's the same housing with different gears. With that being said I don't want to spend $2,000 (asking price on this forum) for a used/bet up with 20-30k miles on it just because it has $600 or less on upgrades. So I was leaning more to find out what upgrades I could do to the axel I already have to make it reliable enough to run 37s.

For the Nitro do I need to take out the gears? Or just hammer it in after taking the wheels,breaks, and axel components?
Old 03-01-2014, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
For every example of someone who didn't have an issue, there are plenty that did. Just sold my front D30 to a guy who bent his running 35s. The housing is weak. You could hit a pothole the right way on 37s and bend a C.

If you can't weld, get the Nitro hammer in sleeves. $120 and 4 hours of your time. Much lower risk of bending the axle tubes. You can't predict if you'll be the unlucky guy, but you don't want the expense of buying a new front axle.

I'd really recommend the gussets. Even a slight bend that you can't see, would cause all kinds of handling issues. The C's are very weak.
Huh? The axle tubes are the exact same as a Rubi D44.
They use the same 32spline outer shafts, knuckles, brakes.
The housings have the same dimensions, outer diameter, tube wall thickness, with the 44 housing having a larger center section to fit the bigger 44 gears.

Weakest point on a D30 would be R&P and axle shafts. Otherwise it is the exact same as a D44 minus a slightly bigger housing for the bigger R&P.


So if you bend a 30, you would have bent a 44. If you blow your gears thats when the D44 would have helped.

Now, an aftermarket 44 is going to be a lot stronger than a rubi44. Thicker tubes and stronger components. This is the way to go to run 37s proper.


to the OP, like I said, dont let peoples horror stories scare you. I know and have wheeled with plenty of people on this set up including myself and they are fine. Not saying this set up will last you forever, but dont let it stop you from going out and enjoying your jeep. Run it, while saving up for an aftermarket axle and swap when you have the money!
Old 03-01-2014, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by D3ADLY
I've been running the same setup. Wheeled it too. No issues as of yet. I plan to buy a pro rock 44 unlimited this year after I get a couple other mods. If you don't go that route wheel it and have fun. Just expect the worse (axle break) and hour for the best. Keep some spare money aside for a new axle just encase you get unlucky. If you're able to it never hurts to reinforce something. You probably never know how many breaks reinforcing your axle actually prevents. How could one know since it didn't break. If that makes any sense anyway. Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 while crawling over mini trucks.
I'm glad you haven't had any breaks either with this set up. Good call on holding money aside which I current do but undecided if to use that cash for upgrades or to replace if I need too later on. I don't want to spend a nut on upgrades have it still break then I sht out of luck. You know? So I looking to see my chances here with you guys experiences

Last edited by jeep_pride; 03-01-2014 at 06:03 AM.
Old 03-01-2014, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jeep_pride
That's for your input. I've been looking at getting sleeves and gussets but I don't know if it would be a good investment. I don't want to drop 600$ and then still bend it. Which is why I was looking at 44s but people say it's the same housing with different gears. With that being said I don't want to spend $2,000 (asking price on this forum) for a used/bet up with 20-30k miles on it just because it has $600 or less on upgrades. So I was leaning more to find out what upgrades I could do to the axel I already have to make it reliable enough to run 37s.

For the Nitro do I need to take out the gears? Or just hammer it in after taking the wheels,breaks, and axel components?
Dont spend that kind of money for sleeves and gussets. Your better off wheeling what you have with the 37s and put that towards a PR44 or other aftermarket axle.
Old 03-01-2014, 06:06 AM
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You can always still break an axle even after upgrading. Do try not to get the mindset that your axle is bomb proof. Even 60's break.

With that being said I would reinforce my c gusset and put all the other money towards a prorock 44 or similar aftermarket.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 while crawling over mini trucks.


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