ShutterBug

I wouldn't go with a Rubi axle for this level of wheeling. I'd get c gussets and a truss for the D30. Put some heavy duty ball joints in (Teraflex) and call it a day. You don't even need a locker. I had been wheeling on 35s with 3.21 gears and open differentials for a couple years and was able to handle a lot of trails just fine. It's about finesse more than lockers. Your BLD will help you climb stuff that you wouldn't think would be possible, but is!

mds22

I thought I was just fine with my 3.5" RK, 35s, 3.73 and LSD on my '14 altitude edition. UNTIL I got my rubicon w/ lockers. Now I could never go back. WHAT A DIFFERENCE. Kinda like what you don't know doesn't hurt you.

EDIT: referring to my experience, not implying you don't know what it's like to wheel w/lockers.

Rednroll

Great stuff. When I 1st joined this forum, and didn't know anything about axles, suspensions, etc. Like many before me, I asked if I should get the Rubi or the Sahara/Sport, because I really didn't know exactly what you got on a Rubi over the Sahara aside from knowing the Rubi was more off-road capable and would cost me $3K-$4K more. The majority of responses I received was that I should save the money and buy the Sahara or Sport because I would just be replacing all the Rubi stuff if I wanted to lift it and fit 35's on it anyways.

Hindsight 20/20 and being a lot more educated on this stuff (yet still very green). For my purposes, having the Rubi's Front and Rear D44 axles with electronic lockers and E-Trackbar sounds like a much better starting point for my modding purposes than where I'm at with my Sahara. It seems I can re-use most of the Rubi stuff and just beef it some. If I could pay $3K-$4K for Rubi front and back Dana 44 axles with lockers, I would be pretty happy right about now.

Since then I've learned with 35's I'll be better off re-gearing to at least 4.83's where the pumpkin isn't big enough in the Dana 30 to re-gear to 4.83. I also learned to do any type of off-roading I would be much better off having lockers. Right about now, starting with a Rubi and re-gearing those axles along with some c gussets and a truss, sounds like a lot better starting point from where I'm at currently.

So while there still seems to be a lot of overwhelming advise to start with a Sport/Sahara and then start modding, I kind of disagree at this point for my modding purposes. Starting with front/back D44's and Lockers seems like a better starting point on the Rubi to me.

jtphoto JK

First off. The Rear D44 is basically the same in both sport, Sahara and Rubi. As a matter of fact it is easier to find a rear locker of your choice for non Rubi rear D44. Sahara/sport win. D30 front can take 5.13 gears and survive, many have. Lots of choices for lockers or limited slip diff if you choose. The D30 housing is the same strength as the D44. The D30 only weak point over the D44 is the ring and pinion.

I chose a Sahara for exactly that same reason and have replaced what would have been all the Rubi parts .. At a savings BTW.

Bottom line .. It is still cheaper to buy a sport or Sahara and build beyond a Rubi then to buy a Rubi and build. So if you are to the point in your off-roading that you need to truss, sleeve, and gusset the D44 then you would have been just as well off with the Sport or Sahara.

Chuck-The-Ripper

I run 37s on a trussed and gussetted 30. I don't care what anyone says, I've wheeled with people from forums time and time again and every time I push my shit 10x harder than them. Yesterday I met up with some guys in Wellsville from the Erie jeep club and a guy named mark from the forums. While they were all in 4wd putting I was in 2wd and kinda doing my own thing as I have add and can't stand boring rides. I've yet to bend, break, or anything. I have however blew a ring and pinion, but it was set up in my driveway with old parts I threw together just to get me by
For memorial weekend, it ended up lasting over a year. I have snapped both front axleshafts, one because a seized pinion bearing and the other because of a junk u-joint that took the ears out when it blew. Way too many people on this forum think they know it all of that they need a prorock when in reality 99% don't go over 3 mph and baby their shit.

jtphoto JK

^^^^ and you are not the only one brother. There are thousands of D30 out there being wheeled every day without issue.

spedly

I have the opposit experience. As soon as I actually started beating on my jeep with 35's everything started breaking.

In 1 year I broke:
Both stock front shafts
2 USA made chromoly front shafts
1 import chromoly front shaft
1 stock rear shaft
1 d30 Detroit locker
1 4.88 d30 ring gear

The d30 was still straight when I pulled it because of the sleeves/gussets/truss, but the rear axle housing was smiling and both axle flanges were bent.

The stock axles aren't bad for light duty, but they are a time bomb when you are beating on the jeep.

SoK66

Why were you beating on the Jeep?

spedly

because easy trails aren't any fun.

SoK66

Good enough reason for me. :-)