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Front D44 Beef up question

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Old 02-28-2011, 09:12 PM
  #31  
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Inner sleeves require you to remove the shafts and drill a bunch of holes in the axel housing for plug welds. This is the route that im taking. Like WOL says, the axel shaft upgrade is important as well. I havnt seen anybody on this forum who has broken or visibly bent a Dana 44 after sleeving and gusseting it. Im sure its possible but probably unlikely with 37' tires.
Old 02-28-2011, 11:05 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by MikeReo
I havnt seen anybody on this forum who has broken or visibly bent a Dana 44 after sleeving and gusseting it. Im sure its possible but probably unlikely with 37' tires.
The break moves from the passenger side CA mounts to the end of the sleeve, right at the pumpkin. It is talked about in the big "inspect your housing" thread.
Old 03-01-2011, 06:44 AM
  #33  
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If upgrading a JK44 and changing brackets to fit a TJ or ZJ, does a Truss with all of the correct brackets incorporated into it add the same strength that sleeves do? C-gussets would still be needed, but would sleeves be necessary?
Old 03-01-2011, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Crasher
If upgrading a JK44 and changing brackets to fit a TJ or ZJ, does a Truss with all of the correct brackets incorporated into it add the same strength that sleeves do? C-gussets would still be needed, but would sleeves be necessary?
A truss would help prevent bending but it wouldn't help strengthen the 'C's unless it extended 'C' to 'C'. Additionally, a truss wouldn't help the impact fracture that we're seeing more frequently.

Welding on a truss, as others have stated, must be done slowly and properly. If done incorrectly, you can seriously warp the housing.

Last edited by Dynatrac; 03-01-2011 at 06:55 AM.
Old 03-01-2011, 07:14 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Dynatrac
A truss would help prevent bending but it wouldn't help strengthen the 'C's unless it extended 'C' to 'C'. Additionally, a truss wouldn't help the impact fracture that we're seeing more frequently.

Welding on a truss, as others have stated, must be done slowly and properly. If done incorrectly, you can seriously warp the housing.
OK. If all of the old brackets are removed, what effect does welding on outer split tubes and then adding a truss that includes all of the needed brackets including the C-gussets? Of course, all of the welding would be done slowly to avoid warpping. How would the end result compare to the PR 44 limited?
Old 03-01-2011, 07:44 AM
  #36  
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IIRC, the external clam shell kit is 40% stronger than stock. The internal sleeve kit is about 35% stronger than stock. A truss, depending on how it is done and where it is reinforced, may or may not add any benefit. It's is very hard to qualify any benefit without physical testing of the actual housing.

The PR44 in std form with 5/16" tube is 113% stronger than stock. However, all of the new PR44 'Unlimited' housings have 1/2" wall tube and they are 182% stronger than stock.

Keep in mind that once you have spent all the time, money and effort to strip, re-inforce and install new brackets to your housing, you still haven't addressed the poor caster angle to get steering back to normal and prevent driveline vibrations.
Old 03-01-2011, 08:04 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Dynatrac
IIRC, the external clam shell kit is 40% stronger than stock. The internal sleeve kit is about 35% stronger than stock. A truss, depending on how it is done and where it is reinforced, may or may not add any benefit. It's is very hard to qualify any benefit without physical testing of the actual housing.

The PR44 in std form with 5/16" tube is 113% stronger than stock. However, all of the new PR44 'Unlimited' housings have 1/2" wall tube and they are 182% stronger than stock.

Keep in mind that once you have spent all the time, money and effort to strip, re-inforce and install new brackets to your housing, you still haven't addressed the poor caster angle to get steering back to normal and prevent driveline vibrations.
Thanks for the information. I think I will go the replace, rather rebuild route and sell my complete rubi D44.
Old 03-01-2011, 08:18 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Dynatrac
IIRC, the external clam shell kit is 40% stronger than stock. The internal sleeve kit is about 35% stronger than stock. A truss, depending on how it is done and where it is reinforced, may or may not add any benefit. It's is very hard to qualify any benefit without physical testing of the actual housing.

The PR44 in std form with 5/16" tube is 113% stronger than stock. However, all of the new PR44 'Unlimited' housings have 1/2" wall tube and they are 182% stronger than stock.

Keep in mind that once you have spent all the time, money and effort to strip, re-inforce and install new brackets to your housing, you still haven't addressed the poor caster angle to get steering back to normal and prevent driveline vibrations.
You make a very good case for replacing the stock housing. IIRC, the PR44 can be built with TJ/ZJ brackets for a simple bolt-in, correct??
Old 03-01-2011, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Crasher
You make a very good case for replacing the stock housing. IIRC, the PR44 can be built with TJ/ZJ brackets for a simple bolt-in, correct??
Yes, that is correct.



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