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Front D44 Beef up question

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Old 02-15-2011, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
definitely would do gussets and chromo shafts and would even recommend inner sleeves as insurance but IMHO, outer sleeves is totally unnecessary and unless it's done by someone who really knows what they're doing, installing a truss can actually BEND your axle.
What are inner sleeves? How much are they? It seems like inner sleeves and C gussets would be a much cheaper option to install unless that guts would need to be removed from the housing to do an inner weld.

Any ideas on costs for this option?
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
I have a question about upgrading to the prorock housing. dynatrac says you can swap out your components in your garage as a diy. Are the differential guts that easy to swap into a new housing or do you need a professional shop set them like when doing a re-gear?
theoretically, this is a DIY project but, setting up your gears would not be easy and unless you know what you are doing, i would have a professional do it.

Originally Posted by BKGM Jeepers
I forgot to point out that I already run 5x5.5 so the bolt pattern isn't an issue. Sorry for not mentioning that earlier.

I actually have some budget and can do upgrades. I really want to do the right balance of money and reliability, or possibly do something to "tide me over" until I have enough to go with a full 60.

I currently run a HPD60 in the rear with the tone rings and 5.13 gears, shafts and an ARB. I run the factory rubicon locker up front and 5.13 gears with high-steer, but no other upgrades. I ordered the Currie HD tie rod and am about to try and flip it.

I didn't realize I could get about $2K for the front 44. If so, that only leaves me about $2500 from the Dynatrac?!
sorry if i wasn't clear but, what i was trying to say is that if you were willing to reuse your factory locker, gears and axle shafts, you can get a prorock 44 housing for about $2k. hope that makes more sense.

Originally Posted by BKGM Jeepers
I recall that if you only pull the assemby you aren't required to re-set the back lash. Is that true?

If so, it's just pulling and re-installing...
but you would be installing it into a new housing. i'm no expert here but, i'm pretty sure you would still need to take care and at least double check your gear backlash setup.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BKGM Jeepers
What are inner sleeves? How much are they? It seems like inner sleeves and C gussets would be a much cheaper option to install unless that guts would need to be removed from the housing to do an inner weld.

Any ideas on costs for this option?
you would be looking at about $240 for sleeves and gussets not including installation.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:42 AM
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All of your existing Rubi front end parts can be swapped over to the PR44 housing. One of the most important improvements will be caster correction.

After you have the factory diff installed into the PR44 housing, the balance of the swap is very easy and could easily be done on a Saturday. This is also a good time to upgrade your ball joints which are likely to be bad if you have over 20K on the rig.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:44 AM
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Thanks Wayoflife.

If I go the Dynatrac with my components, how strong is the factory locker?

Is this a good option or just a band aid to at least get an ARB and good shafts with the housing?
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by BKGM Jeepers
Thanks Wayoflife.

If I go the Dynatrac with my components, how strong is the factory locker?

Is this a good option or just a band aid to at least get an ARB and good shafts with the housing?
truthfully, i have not had good luck with the factory lockers and had gone through several before giving up and moving over to ARB's. needless to say, i would just go ARB from the get go but, i was just giving you your options.

Originally Posted by TheDirtman
So the diff should be done in a professional shop then.
if it were me, yes.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Dynatrac
All of your existing Rubi front end parts can be swapped over to the PR44 housing. One of the most important improvements will be caster correction.

After you have the factory diff installed into the PR44 housing, the balance of the swap is very easy and could easily be done on a Saturday. This is also a good time to upgrade your ball joints which are likely to be bad if you have over 20K on the rig.
If I already have the offset balljoints installed on my axle, does that affect the Dynatrac use of my outers? You mention that Dynatrac corrects for that factory problem.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by BKGM Jeepers
If I already have the offset balljoints installed on my axle, does that affect the Dynatrac use of my outers? You mention that Dynatrac corrects for that factory problem.
assuming they are still good, you can reuse your ball joints. i think what dynatrac was referring to was not "camber" but "caster". they build their axles with positive caster in it already.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:51 AM
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This is a good thread!

So I'm now leaning towards an axle swap instead of my D44 upgrade. That being said what are my options with the Dynatrac approach?

For example, What's a prorock44 and a prorock44 unlimited? Is there a difference? I know I need an ARB, so i'd probably like to keep my stock 44 complete so I can maxmize my re-sale and offset this new purchase.

I already run 5x5.5 so I'd probably like the manual hubs included in a solution. Can those axles we spoke about earlier be run with manual hubs?
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
assuming they are still good, you can reuse your ball joints. i think what dynatrac was referring to was not "camber" but "caster". they build their axles with positive caster in it already.
Good catch, I had them backwards.
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