front brake line and lift help!!
#22
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okay, I need help. I tried the vice grips and I cant seem to pry it open, and im afraid it's going to slip and tear the line.
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if anyone has some words of advice, or a trick they used to get the lines out of the bracket, i'd really appreciate it! I want to go offroad but don't want to till I have this resolved.
if anyone has some words of advice, or a trick they used to get the lines out of the bracket, i'd really appreciate it! I want to go offroad but don't want to till I have this resolved.
#23
JK Junkie
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I just held the tab side with a pair of pliers. I used a second set of pliers (channelock waterpump) around the curved part, with only the end tooth of the pliers over the lip of the curved part. This kept the pliers away from the line. Then just pried down and it opened right up.
Last edited by 14Sport; 07-21-2014 at 02:37 PM.
#24
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I couldn't pry mine apart either, so I used a dremel on the outside of the bracket to weaken it enough for me to pry it apart. Just cut a line acrossed the outside with a cutting wheel attachment.
#25
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I actually disconnected the bracket from the perch so I could attach both vice grips right smack in the middle of the bracket. I found that by disconnecting the bracket from the perch, I could use a push/pull technique to pry that bracket open and had more space to move around and get the best leverage especially if your rig is on jack stands.
The vice grip (the ones that can clamp down hard by itself & have the adjustability screw knob to get the gripping power super tight) should have several teeth on it and as long as you are able to get a set of teeth clamped onto that rolled section, it'll grab that metal without interfering with the brake line. It helps to de-clip or cut the clips off so the smaller line is out of the way.
Teraflex has a video where they somewhat show using a pry bar while the bracket is still attached to the perch. Keep in mind though their jeep was on a lift so they had more room to move around/adjust to get the best leverage.
Yes, it's a b*tch to get off but just carefully keep at it and the metal will start to give slowly but surely.
The vice grip (the ones that can clamp down hard by itself & have the adjustability screw knob to get the gripping power super tight) should have several teeth on it and as long as you are able to get a set of teeth clamped onto that rolled section, it'll grab that metal without interfering with the brake line. It helps to de-clip or cut the clips off so the smaller line is out of the way.
Teraflex has a video where they somewhat show using a pry bar while the bracket is still attached to the perch. Keep in mind though their jeep was on a lift so they had more room to move around/adjust to get the best leverage.
Yes, it's a b*tch to get off but just carefully keep at it and the metal will start to give slowly but surely.
Last edited by DJ1; 07-21-2014 at 04:18 PM.
#26
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If keeping the bracket mounted to the perch, refer to this video at the :30 second mark....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyJzW38fyjo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyJzW38fyjo
#28
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I kept the bracket in original location and used a long crow bar with leverage on the axle or frame to pry the hell out of it. It is not easy to get it off. I was able to get it most of the way off this way until the mounting bolt broke and then 2 pairs of vice grips one on each side to pry rest of the way open. Worked really well and had bracket off in 5 min just be very careful. U need some serious man strength on that bracket!!! This and getting the top shock mount nuts on were the two most time consuming parts of my lift (took me an hour to realize the crow bar was the ticket).
#29
JK Junkie
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I used a dremel (most people I know do it this way) and cut a line on the back side of the bracket. You don't need to go all the way through. Once you get 3/4 of the way through, you can pry it open with ease.
#30
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This is a great idea! As usual strong suggestions from invest2m4. Wish I had heard this trick during my install.