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front brake line and lift help!!

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Old 07-18-2014, 01:39 PM
  #11  
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Well I have a 2.5" lift (3.5 in front because I started with 14 springs) and when I brought it to the dealer for my free oil change, the mechanic was surprised my suspension wasn't "hanging by the brake lines" on the lift. He said almost every lifted Jeep that comes in there is. Hope you're not fooling yourself. And that's with all 4 wheels drooped. In order to fully droop a wheel you must have the opposite side stuffed.

Last edited by 14Sport; 07-18-2014 at 01:43 PM.
Old 07-18-2014, 01:43 PM
  #12  
Ncb
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Originally Posted by immortalmetal
I just bolted it back into place. It doesn't look like anything will happen. There seems to be enough slack. Thanks guys. <img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=566092"/> <img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=566091"/>
You won't know for sure until you droop/flex the axle if it's enough. That bracket can be carefully cut away from the brake line to add enough slack. Good luck.

Last edited by Ncb; 07-18-2014 at 09:40 PM.
Old 07-18-2014, 08:24 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by immortalmetal
I just bolted it back into place. It doesn't look like anything will happen. There seems to be enough slack. Thanks guys.

Attachment 566092



Attachment 566091
If a Rubicon with front sway bar disconnect the brake line isn't long enough with full front articulation. While out wheeling in the back country the last thing you want is a torn line and no brakes ......
Old 07-18-2014, 09:11 PM
  #14  
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You do not want to leave that stock metal bracket on. That metal will start wearing through the shock body. I've seen it happen.

Use 2 vice grips opposite from one another to pry it off. Build some upper body strength in the process. Then use 2 zip ties to secure it to the shock body.

Furthermore if you plan to do any real off-roading with the fronts disconnected and your running a lift but you still have that damn stock bracket on there, you absolutely do not want to have that still mounted at the stock location @ the spring perch.

There's good reason why both the AEV and Teraflex 2.5" lift kits say to remove it.

Last edited by DJ1; 07-18-2014 at 09:14 PM.
Old 07-18-2014, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 14Sport

Remove the bracket with a pair of pliers.
^^^X2.

Reinstall the bracket back into it's original position and use a pair of Channel Lock's to open the bracket. By putting the bracket back into it original position it will allow you more leverage to open it to remove the brake line. Discard the empty bracket then zip tie your brake line to the front shock.



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Last edited by Tripletsi; 07-18-2014 at 09:17 PM.
Old 07-19-2014, 04:24 AM
  #16  
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I should. Thanks guys,! Its pouring outside now....will it be okay if I'm just doing street driving? Till I can get under there and fix it?

And also, the bolt for the track bar relocation bracket, the NUT is right next to the spring and I think its hitting it when the spring compresses a bit. Will this be okay? I tried lowering the axle to spin the spring. But I can't lower it enough with the tires on to spring it. And didn't want to damn near take the whole rear end apart again. Is this something I should do?
Old 07-19-2014, 04:28 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by immortalmetal
I should. Thanks guys,! Its pouring outside now....will it be okay if I'm just doing street driving? Till I can get under there and fix it?

And also, the bolt for the track bar relocation bracket, the NUT is right next to the spring and I think its hitting it when the spring compresses a bit. Will this be okay? I tried lowering the axle to spin the spring. But I can't lower it enough with the tires on to spring it. And didn't want to damn near take the whole rear end apart again. Is this something I should do?
You should be fine as long as you don't flex it before fixing it.

I don't know which bracket you have but can you reverse the bolt?
Old 07-19-2014, 06:08 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 14Sport
I don't know which bracket you have but can you reverse the bolt?
The rear track bar bolt should be installed front to back as stated above^^^. If you can't picture it in your mind hop onto AEV website and look at their 2.5" lift instructions.

Since everything is already installed you'll need to jack up the rear driver side corner of the Jeep. Remove the bolt before jacking. This will let the coil open up enough to give you room to slide the bolt in and out. Make sure to use jack stands so you don't lose a finger. Use a ratchet strap to center the axle and the bolt will slide in easily.

Last edited by Tripletsi; 07-19-2014 at 06:12 AM.
Old 07-19-2014, 10:38 AM
  #19  
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I'm hopping ill have enough room to move the bolt without removing the spring. I'd hate to uninstall everything just to move the bolt.
Are you sure there will be enough clearance with the bolt head near the spring, as opposed to the nut there?

Thanks for all the help guys,, I appreciate it
Old 07-19-2014, 11:20 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by immortalmetal
I'm hopping ill have enough room to move the bolt without removing the spring. I'd hate to uninstall everything just to move the bolt.
Are you sure there will be enough clearance with the bolt head near the spring, as opposed to the nut there?

Thanks for all the help guys,, I appreciate it
You should be able to tell by looking at it. If the nut side comes out further than the head side then it would certainly help.


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