FOX ATS Warning!
02-05-2015, 06:24 PM
#21
Although I could care less about fancy european cars, where I have the ATS dialed in at makes the steering wheel feel like an M3. Highway driving is SOLID. I never installed the correction brackets with my AEV 2.5 lift and instead sold them. I can only imagine how much more solid it will drive once I slap on some front adjustable lower control arms.
Once the rain/storm lets up next week, I'll loctite that main tie-rod bracket bolt and paint mark it to make sure I can easily see it stays there.
On the other end, I mounted the adjustment side of the ATS using a Synergy relocation bracket which not only raises it but will help to keep the shock body from slapping the ground should that tie-rod bracket bolt ever come undone.
Last edited by DJ1; 02-05-2015 at 10:39 PM.
02-06-2015, 04:14 AM
#22
JK Freak
Thread Starter
I notice the benefits more on the road than off road. The roads here in the NYC area are total crap. Some trails I've been on are smoother.
I had it set in the middle and with 35's and a 2.5" lift on a 2 door, there is absolutely no bump steer or pull.
It almost feels like a sports car not a brick on wheels. When I put it back on, I'm also gonna mark the bolt, even though it's in a hard to see location.
I had it set in the middle and with 35's and a 2.5" lift on a 2 door, there is absolutely no bump steer or pull.
It almost feels like a sports car not a brick on wheels. When I put it back on, I'm also gonna mark the bolt, even though it's in a hard to see location.
02-06-2015, 07:01 AM
#23
JK Junkie
thanks / id be using it on stock tie rod at stock height
my jeep isn't lifted though . Its not that flighty but id like to up grade the factory stuff a little at a time, for worthy mods that make it a overall better ride on and off. Although I run nitto trail grappler (e rated tires ) 33s im sure those arnt the most plush tire out there . !ve had my eye on the fox ats for a couple of seasons now . Do you guys think it would get trashed at stock height ? I suppose its the risk u take on this stuff thanks for reply hope it stays put this time for you . wrap it in gorilla tape after you red lock tight lol
The ride IMHO is nite & day from the stock SS or any standard stabilizer since they are all shocks in the basic sense in that the piston rod will naturally come out when not compressed. As a result, this can cause the steering to want to pull to 1 side vs the other. The amount of "pull" varies depending on the mfg of the stabilizer. Just like shocks, some are tuned firm while others soft. I've tried the OME and the Bilstein also. No comparison to the ATS.
Although I could care less about fancy european cars, where I have the ATS dialed in at makes the steering wheel feel like an M3. Highway driving is SOLID. I never installed the correction brackets with my AEV 2.5 lift and instead sold them. I can only imagine how much more solid it will drive once I slap on some front adjustable lower control arms.
Once the rain/storm lets up next week, I'll loctite that main tie-rod bracket bolt and paint mark it to make sure I can easily see it stays there.
On the other end, I mounted the adjustment side of the ATS using a Synergy relocation bracket which not only raises it but will help to keep the shock body from slapping the ground should that tie-rod bracket bolt ever come undone.
Although I could care less about fancy european cars, where I have the ATS dialed in at makes the steering wheel feel like an M3. Highway driving is SOLID. I never installed the correction brackets with my AEV 2.5 lift and instead sold them. I can only imagine how much more solid it will drive once I slap on some front adjustable lower control arms.
Once the rain/storm lets up next week, I'll loctite that main tie-rod bracket bolt and paint mark it to make sure I can easily see it stays there.
On the other end, I mounted the adjustment side of the ATS using a Synergy relocation bracket which not only raises it but will help to keep the shock body from slapping the ground should that tie-rod bracket bolt ever come undone.
I notice the benefits more on the road than off road. The roads here in the NYC area are total crap. Some trails I've been on are smoother.
I had it set in the middle and with 35's and a 2.5" lift on a 2 door, there is absolutely no bump steer or pull.
It almost feels like a sports car not a brick on wheels. When I put it back on, I'm also gonna mark the bolt, even though it's in a hard to see location.
I had it set in the middle and with 35's and a 2.5" lift on a 2 door, there is absolutely no bump steer or pull.
It almost feels like a sports car not a brick on wheels. When I put it back on, I'm also gonna mark the bolt, even though it's in a hard to see location.
Last edited by jeepmojo; 02-06-2015 at 07:04 AM.
02-06-2015, 09:58 AM
#24
It's hard to say. The good thing is with the ATS, you get their 2-in-1 trackbar bolt. Some people like it. Some hate it. It's a 22mm deep socket so be prepared to buy one if you want to make sure it's torqued down correctly. If you decide to use the FOX bolt, it at least raises the mounting to where the trackbar mounts at the axle. I'm guessing but I think it's about 2 inches higher than where the stock setup mounts at.
My use for the Synergy Relocation bracket was primarily to beef up the factory trackbar bracket without having to weld anything since it's so thin. Using it I gain about another inch of clearance. Long term I'm not sure if / how much effect it will have on the main bolt that connects the ATS to it's tie-rod bracket but since it's coming at a slight angle now from the relocation bracket down to the tie rod, there is directional force now being applied upward on that bolt. That force could either cause it to unscrew or do the opposite and help to create more clamping force. That's why I'll paint mark it to keep an eye on it.
The threaded end that is inside that tie-rod bracket has some swivel to it. Refer to the picture shown earlier in the first post. Because of that, it will help to relief some of that upward force on the bolt.
Attachment 595547
My use for the Synergy Relocation bracket was primarily to beef up the factory trackbar bracket without having to weld anything since it's so thin. Using it I gain about another inch of clearance. Long term I'm not sure if / how much effect it will have on the main bolt that connects the ATS to it's tie-rod bracket but since it's coming at a slight angle now from the relocation bracket down to the tie rod, there is directional force now being applied upward on that bolt. That force could either cause it to unscrew or do the opposite and help to create more clamping force. That's why I'll paint mark it to keep an eye on it.
The threaded end that is inside that tie-rod bracket has some swivel to it. Refer to the picture shown earlier in the first post. Because of that, it will help to relief some of that upward force on the bolt.
Attachment 595547
Last edited by DJ1; 02-06-2015 at 10:16 AM.
02-06-2015, 12:22 PM
#25
JK Freak
Thread Starter
I used the Fox relocation bolt. It puts it up on top of the tie rod, so unless you trash your tie rod, your ATS should be OK.
Just make sure you have enough clearance at stock height.
Just make sure you have enough clearance at stock height.
02-06-2015, 12:58 PM
#26
JK Junkie
is there a way to mount it to the stock oem bracket
due to the fact I realy don't want to use that track bar bolt in the location . I added a re enforcement plate to the track bar bracket and I have a 9/16 bolt in there because I have teraflex monster track bar there now . hate messing with that if theres a way to utilize stock stabilizer bracket . Or is it wise to use the one that comes with the new shock? The hole had wallowed a bit so I added that plate to help that from continuing . was getting a bad shimmy .
if you can see through the road salt! not sure if the performance of the fox ats would be better in the track bar location or is that just to raise it only ?
(dj1) im surprised they didn't use grade 8 and just let that bolt run through the clamp with a nut under the clamp somewhat recessed, just to clear the tie rod leaving a opening in the clamp to get a open end wrench on the nut
but after reviewing the synergy relocation
bracket thats prob better option than what i have now !! i think ill go with that set up & the fox ats
if you can see through the road salt! not sure if the performance of the fox ats would be better in the track bar location or is that just to raise it only ?
(dj1) im surprised they didn't use grade 8 and just let that bolt run through the clamp with a nut under the clamp somewhat recessed, just to clear the tie rod leaving a opening in the clamp to get a open end wrench on the nut
but after reviewing the synergy relocationbracket thats prob better option than what i have now !! i think ill go with that set up & the fox ats
Last edited by jeepmojo; 02-06-2015 at 06:57 PM.
02-06-2015, 01:45 PM
#27
02-07-2015, 04:16 AM
#29
JK Freak
Thread Starter
due to the fact I realy don't want to use that track bar bolt in the location . I added a re enforcement plate to the track bar bracket and I have a 9/16 bolt in there because I have teraflex monster track bar there now . hate messing with that if theres a way to utilize stock stabilizer bracket . Or is it wise to use the one that comes with the new shock? The hole had wallowed a bit so I added that plate to help that from continuing . was getting a bad shimmy .
if you can see through the road salt! not sure if the performance of the fox ats would be better in the track bar location or is that just to raise it only ?
(dj1) im surprised they didn't use grade 8 and just let that bolt run through the clamp with a nut under the clamp somewhat recessed, just to clear the tie rod leaving a opening in the clamp to get a open end wrench on the nut but after reviewing the synergy relocation
bracket thats prob better option than what i have now !! i think ill go with that set up & the fox ats
if you can see through the road salt! not sure if the performance of the fox ats would be better in the track bar location or is that just to raise it only ?
(dj1) im surprised they didn't use grade 8 and just let that bolt run through the clamp with a nut under the clamp somewhat recessed, just to clear the tie rod leaving a opening in the clamp to get a open end wrench on the nut
but after reviewing the synergy relocationbracket thats prob better option than what i have now !! i think ill go with that set up & the fox ats
You can mount it in the stock location. Mine was there for a while. It's fine. Just not up and out of the way.
02-07-2015, 10:35 AM
#30
Yes, the Fox ATS is better than regular SS, because it is in fact 2 stabilizers in one body. This prevents the possibility of pulling to one side (which is rare).
Beyond that, I must say I don't really understand what you're talking about... A properly working SS is supposed to be 'transparent' -- we don't feel it. If everything at the front is properly adjusted and torqued, one can't feel if the SS is there, or removed.
A SS would mask steering problems.
Only when there is a problem, a difference would be felt with/without a SS, and that's it's purpose: to prevent too much loss of steering control in case something fails.
Using a SS to make the steering feel different is not the way. The live axles, especially the rear one, move sideways when they move up or down -- that's what makes the constant, small steering changes and the constant, small steering corrections necessary.
There are solutions for this, from the Full Traction CRC Link to Rear Double Triangulated 4 Link Cross-member Kit -- all are suspension upgrades which have nothing to do with the SS.
The SS, like a shock absorber, poses resistance only. The piston rod does not move in or out on it's own. There's no spring in there, and no accumulated pressure. There is no force inside the SS that can move the piston. There's only an orifice that resists movement.
Beyond that, I must say I don't really understand what you're talking about... A properly working SS is supposed to be 'transparent' -- we don't feel it. If everything at the front is properly adjusted and torqued, one can't feel if the SS is there, or removed.
A SS would mask steering problems.
Only when there is a problem, a difference would be felt with/without a SS, and that's it's purpose: to prevent too much loss of steering control in case something fails.
Using a SS to make the steering feel different is not the way. The live axles, especially the rear one, move sideways when they move up or down -- that's what makes the constant, small steering changes and the constant, small steering corrections necessary.
There are solutions for this, from the Full Traction CRC Link to Rear Double Triangulated 4 Link Cross-member Kit -- all are suspension upgrades which have nothing to do with the SS.
DJ1
The ride IMHO is nite & day from the stock SS or any standard stabilizer since they are all shocks in the basic sense in that the piston rod will naturally come out when not compressed. As a result, this can cause the steering to want to pull to 1 side vs the other.
The ride IMHO is nite & day from the stock SS or any standard stabilizer since they are all shocks in the basic sense in that the piston rod will naturally come out when not compressed. As a result, this can cause the steering to want to pull to 1 side vs the other.
Last edited by GJeep; 02-07-2015 at 12:50 PM.