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flighty steering which is best option

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Old 05-23-2012, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jstrong394
alright.thimk im gonna try the tf lca's since thats the brand lift im running.....what about the track bar...with a 2.5" lift is that necessary
Not really needed with a 2.5" kit, however #1753418 is your TF part number for one. Install the arms first, then go from there.
Old 05-23-2012, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by yo_marc
No offense taken, I know we all got different opinions.

I spent a 'ton' of time adjusting the toe on my primarily road driven stock-ish JK. I'm just a general motorhead and super picky about on road feel and handling. Passing along what worked for me, after a lot of trial and error.
well, i'm glad to hear it but, what i said about the toe not changing due to a lift is fact, not an opinion. unlike the old TJ where the drag link was connected to the tie-rod, the JK has the drag link and tie rod connected to the steering knuckle separately. it would be impossible to influence your toe setting just from lifting your jeep.
Old 05-23-2012, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
well, i'm glad to hear it but, what i said about the toe not changing due to a lift is fact, not an opinion. unlike the old TJ where the drag link was connected to the tie-rod, the JK has the drag link and tie rod connected to the steering knuckle separately. it would be impossible to influence your toe setting just from lifting your jeep.
I am splitting hairs, but I do humbly beg to differ..

I think to sum things up quick I could say; 1) If you change your caster, you also change your toes axis and therefore introduce a change in toe; as measured at 9-and-3 and as seen by the tires contact patch. 2) If you reduce your caster, your steering will be more sensitive to proper toe settings.

I think "2" is where the meat and potatoes of my results lie...
Old 05-23-2012, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by yo_marc
I am splitting hairs, but I do humbly beg to differ..

I think to sum things up quick I could say; 1) If you change your caster, you also change your toes axis and therefore introduce a change in toe; as measured at 9-and-3 and as seen by the tires contact patch. 2) If you reduce your caster, your steering will be more sensitive to proper toe settings.

I think "2" is where the meat and potatoes of my results lie...
yes, you would be splitting hairs as with just 2.5" of lift, we are only talking about a degree change in caster AT MOST on a toe that is only about 1/16" in. but hey, you can beg to differ all you want.
Old 05-23-2012, 01:32 PM
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Any other suggestions on brand of lca's.....looks lik tf is one the cheapest
Old 05-23-2012, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jstrong394
Any other suggestions on brand of lca's.....looks lik tf is one the cheapest
nothing wrong with the TF arms.
Old 05-23-2012, 03:20 PM
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Sorry to hi jack the thread but has any one heard anything about the rough country x flex lower control arms.
Old 05-23-2012, 03:55 PM
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Is it true that JKs naturally pull to the right? I just had a lift installed and it pulls every so slightly to the right. Installers said its all installed spot on and that's just how JKs are. Seems odd
Old 07-13-2012, 06:42 PM
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Default LCA Installation question

Originally Posted by wayoflife
you only set the pinion angle in the rear and for that, you need adjustable rear UPPER control arms to do it. up front, you need to put priority on caster and a set of adjustable front lowers will help you to do that. if you can afford to get front uppers as well, the optimal solution is to use the front lowers for what they are made for and correct the position of your front axle and then use adjustable front uppers to set your caster. camber is not something that you can normally adjust on a solid axle but, if your c's are bent, you can use adjustable ball joints to help fix it.



most any of the adjustable control arms sold by any of the sponsors on this forum will do the trick just fine. you can totally do this on your own and without even lifting your jeep off the ground.

1. place a floor jack under the pinion of your front axle - raise it up so that it's just holding it up.
2. starting on the driver side, remove control arm nut at the axle using a 21mm socket and wrench.
3. if the bolt does not slide out by hand with ease, slowly raise your jack just a bit until the bind is released. if you go too far, you will need to lower it back down. when you have it just right, the bolt will come out easily.
4. remove the control arm nut and bolt at the frame end using a 21mm socket and wrench.
5. leaving your jack exactly where it is, repeat steps 1-4 on the passenger side. again, raise and or lower your jack as needed to pull the bolt out from your axle mount.
6. set both your new adjustable control arms to 23" eye to eye.
7. loosely install your new driver side control arm onto the frame mount using the factory hardware
8. lower your jack as needed until you can align the mounting hole with that of your new lower control arm. secure it in place with the factory hardware.
9. repeat steps 7-8
10. tighten all your nuts and bolts to 125-130 ft. lbs. of torque.

that's all you need to do.

WOL, *
* Thanks for sharing the steps! *I just received my TF Front LCA's and am ready to install them tomorrow...I do have a question though:
*You gave the measurement for 23" eye to eye...is that the bottom, middle or top of the eye?
* (I tried downloading the instructions from the TF website, but the .PDF file isn't available and it looks like I am not clever enough to use the installation guide that came in the box) *
Old 07-13-2012, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by James_VanCleave
WOL, *
* Thanks for sharing the steps! *I just received my TF Front LCA's and am ready to install them tomorrow...I do have a question though:
*You gave the measurement for 23" eye to eye...is that the bottom, middle or top of the eye?
* (I tried downloading the instructions from the TF website, but the .PDF file isn't available and it looks like I am not clever enough to use the installation guide that came in the box) *
center of eye to center.


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