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"Flighty" steering.

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Old 04-01-2008, 11:47 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by bly109
lol, ok I thought so, but then I reread your post and wasnt sure. I only had one set disconnected at a time. And even with the frame on jackstands, it was a pain in the ass to get the bolts back in. The axle did not want cooperate! If I wouldve had someone there to just hold the axle while I put the bolts in, it wouldve been alot easier.

I would check the length on your lowers compared to the stock ones. You might be ok with just uppers. Or at least closer to an acceptable caster until you decide to replace lowers too. I think I set the lowers to 3/8 longer then stock and the uppers an 1/8" longer I ended up with 5 degrees, It handles ok, but I think it will be even better at 6-7. When I have another free day (preferably a warm one), I plan on readjusting them.
Thanks...........
Old 04-01-2008, 11:57 AM
  #42  
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Okay, I've been following this thread with interest because since installing the RC 2.5" BB the steering has been flighty on my JK. An earlier recommendation was to install an upper control arm, but then someone who talked with Superlift said they recommend a lower--improved ground clearance and sturdier product for a more exposed area of the vehicle. Others have said they're needing both uppers and lowers to get suitable performance, but I THINK that's because they have taller lifts. So, here is my question:

Will/should an adjustable lower control arm alone, after resetting camber, fix my flighty steering?

Thanks, folks. This is an extremely informative forum!
Old 04-01-2008, 12:27 PM
  #43  
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I have been following it as well, my reason is to just modify my stock lowers to bring my caster back to a less darty condition. I had another thread seeking info on how much longer I need to make them to achieve this and didn't get any responses, but I think I've got a good starting point here and will use an angle finder as a reference. In order to use the angle finder, you would have to support under the axel on one side, remove tire/wheel and lower back to a centerline height of the axel with the wheel/tire on it and make sure the floor your on is very close to level. I'm am guessing I need to add between 1/4 and 3/8" to the length.
Thanks to all!
Jim
Old 04-01-2008, 04:35 PM
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If you'res are like mine, and you only do the uppers, you'll likely be able to get to about 6 degrees. You won't be able to shorten them enough.

Having said this, buy just the uppers and give it a shot. See how it drives. If still sketchy, (mine was), then get the adjustable lowers. Then you can get to 7 - 8 degrees.

Blue Mesa
Old 04-01-2008, 04:41 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Blue Mesa
If you'res are like mine, and you only do the uppers, you'll likely be able to get to about 6 degrees. You won't be able to shorten them enough.

Having said this, buy just the uppers and give it a shot. See how it drives. If still sketchy, (mine was), then get the adjustable lowers. Then you can get to 7 - 8 degrees.

Blue Mesa
You had SJ fixed lowers right?
Old 04-02-2008, 03:41 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Smoke6
You had SJ fixed lowers right?
yes. Now have them off, and for sale

Blue Mesa
Old 05-18-2008, 03:38 PM
  #47  
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So my Full Traction adjustable front upper control arms came in last week. I went to installing them and changing the caster yesterday. A bigger pain in the rear than I'd expected, but was able to git er' done with WOF's writeup(s).

I already had the TF 2.5 BB w/ 3/4 spacers and adjustable front track bar installed. My Jeep was riding pretty good on 35" Cooper STT's but did not feel completely solid. I'd added the Superlift steering stabilizer which did improve the ride enough that I'd let my wife drive it. All in all it rode pretty good... I'd thought.

After reading extensively about the "need" to increase the caster with a lift, I finally broke down and ordered the FT control arms (Thanks Dave at Northridge!). This was actually done in part because I was itching to wrench on the Jeep some more. I'd checked my caster and was sitting at about 1+ before putting the Jeep on stands.

I was a bit confused at first as to whether I'd needed to shorten or lengthen the control arms. I'd decided after looking at the setup that I need to shorten them. So I removed the driver's side control arm and compared it to the FT CA, ten adjusted the FT until it was a bit shorter than stock. I then attempted to "loosely install" the CA back on to the axel. I worked at this for about 1.5 hours before sitting back, looking at it, and deciding to loosen the lower control arms. This worked and allowed me to move the axle enough to get the control arm back on. I should note here that I'd also adjusted the passenger side FT CA so that it matched the driver's side. I then proceeded to install the passenger side, running into the issue of not being able to get the top CA bolt out because of the exhaust. I tried and tried before referring to WOL's writeup on the Full Traction lift install - where I found out that the bolt would have to be cut out. I used one of the shock bolts to install the arm so that I could put everything back together as best as possible. I hit the hardware store this morning for the bolt replacement for the shock and was back in business! Jeep now sits with caster angle of 5+.

Took the Jeep out for a test ride this afternoon. I have to say that this is a definite improvement. Before this install the steering did not "snap back" to center after a turn. It does now. It tracks better and the steering feels tighter - what I'd imagine stock would be. As I'd said, I wasn't unhappy with the feel before adding the adustable control arms. But I am definitely glad that I ended up doing it. DEFINITE improvement.

Last edited by Anhedrew; 06-20-2008 at 07:22 AM.
Old 05-19-2008, 05:52 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
Okay, I've been following this thread with interest because since installing the RC 2.5" BB the steering has been flighty on my JK. An earlier recommendation was to install an upper control arm, but then someone who talked with Superlift said they recommend a lower--improved ground clearance and sturdier product for a more exposed area of the vehicle. Others have said they're needing both uppers and lowers to get suitable performance, but I THINK that's because they have taller lifts. So, here is my question:

Will/should an adjustable lower control arm alone, after resetting camber, fix my flighty steering?

Thanks, folks. This is an extremely informative forum!
you can't change camber on the front of a JK. it is fixed.

caster is adjusted with UPPER adjustable control arms, not lower.
Old 05-19-2008, 11:28 AM
  #49  
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Lower arms work great for adjusting caster.
Old 06-05-2008, 09:12 PM
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Question??? When changing to a positive 6 to 8 degree caster doesn't this cause front drive line vibes since the difference in angle between the front pinion and the drive shaft is much greater than 3 degrees???

Anyone with an angle finder that has their caster set to a positive 6 to 8 degrees......what is the angle of your front drive shaft and what is the pinion angle on the bottom of the front diff????



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