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"Flighty" steering.

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Old 03-28-2008, 03:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Smoke6
Same issues here after my 3" FT. I have fixed CAs, so I'm pretty sure that caster is causing my darting. Which CAs need to be adjustable to fix this? I don't have the cash to spend on adjustable uper & lower CAs. I love my Jeep, but I want to shoot myself when I'm driving it on the highway.
Either uppers or lowers will allow you to correct the problem. Adding both will allow your suspension to flex offroad more freely but you certainly don't need both to correct the caster. Either will allow you to correct the tilt of the axle. If budget allows and you plan to offroad seriously do the lowers since they are more exposed to impact (the aftermarket adjustables are heavier than the stock tubes). I think they may be a bit more expensive than the uppers since the upper design is shorter and has no bend.
Old 03-28-2008, 05:08 PM
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My uppers are stock, but my lowers are fixed FT's. If I can correct the caster by replacing the stock uppers only, I might just do that (for now). I already have aftermarket "beef" in my lowers (their just not adjustable).
Old 03-28-2008, 05:49 PM
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Okay, so I'm convinced that I need adjustable front upper arms. Now the question is - what is the difference between the manufacturers? Why do they run between $199 and nearly $300? Are the higher priced arms any better than the "cheap" arms? My wife is going to squirt out some kittens.
Old 03-28-2008, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoke6
My uppers are stock, but my lowers are fixed FT's. If I can correct the caster by replacing the stock uppers only, I might just do that (for now). I already have aftermarket "beef" in my lowers (their just not adjustable).
Have your tire shop check your allignment specs before you start throwing more money around. Stock spec is 4 degrees, my lift without adjustable arms reduced my caster to 2 degrees. Since your kit replaced the lowers I'm sure they are different length than stock to compensate for the change in caster. Yours may not be as far off as you think. Most posts I've read regarding lifts and caster seem to agree that 5 - 7 degrees works best. I agree that adjustable uppers would allow you to tweak the caster to your preference and if yours is out that's the way I'd go.
Old 03-28-2008, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by CJK
Have your tire shop check your allignment specs before you start throwing more money around. Stock spec is 4 degrees, my lift without adjustable arms reduced my caster to 2 degrees. Since your kit replaced the lowers I'm sure they are different length than stock to compensate for the change in caster. Yours may not be as far off as you think. Most posts I've read regarding lifts and caster seem to agree that 5 - 7 degrees works best. I agree that adjustable uppers would allow you to tweak the caster to your preference and if yours is out that's the way I'd go.
I kept the print out that I got when I had it professionally aligned right after the lift install. My caster read ; front left 1.20 degrees (before & after alignment), front right 1.23 degrees (before & after). Sounds like it is WAY OFF.

All these readings were taken before I redid the front end myself due to a terrible trac bar install (among other loose parts).
Old 03-28-2008, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoke6
I kept the print out that I got when I had it professionally aligned right after the lift install. My caster read ; front left 1.20 degrees (before & after alignment), front right 1.23 degrees (before & after). Sounds like it is WAY OFF.

All these readings were taken before I redid the front end myself due to a terrible trac bar install (among other loose parts).
you can always buy a $20 angle finder and check it yourself.

Old 03-28-2008, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoke6
I kept the print out that I got when I had it professionally aligned right after the lift install. My caster read ; front left 1.20 degrees (before & after alignment), front right 1.23 degrees (before & after). Sounds like it is WAY OFF.

All these readings were taken before I redid the front end myself due to a terrible trac bar install (among other loose parts).

Not an expert here, but all of this stuff happened to me when the local shop put in my 4" skyjacker lift. Axel off center by 1" so rear tire rubbed when flexed, and bigger problem was the wander all over the road. Adj. track bar is the answer to the centering of the axel. Adjustable control arms are the answer for wandering / bump-steer. I took off all the sky-crapper stuff, and put on adjustable uppers & lowers by Full Traction. I started with just the uppers and it got my caster angle (as measured in the photo above) to about 5 - 6 degrees. Still too much wander for me, so I added the lowers too. Took the caster to 7 - 8 degrees. Now back to the feel it should have.

I'd also add, if you're at 4" or more, and in a two door, you're gonna have rear issues too. Axel shift - cured by adjustable track bar, and the pinion angle in the rear, is going to be so different than the angle of the drive shaft (due to big lift), that you're gonna need to at least change the pinion angle via adjustable rear arms and maybe change out the driveshaft to u-joint type (I had to do both).

All of this really sucks to find out once you've had stuff installed.

Moral of the story is to get the tools and do it yourself. If you're above 2", think about adjustable arms & bars, and then you might as well go to a 4" lift.

Hope this helps.

Blue Mesa
Old 03-29-2008, 03:48 AM
  #28  
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I also had the flighty steering after the RC 4" lift on my wifes JP, RC corrcts this with cam bolts for the lower control arms. I've heard of peoples cam bolts "slipping" on them so I only notched the rear of the axle bracket, that way the caster can never go lower than what she could handle on the highway. So far the cam bolts made a huge improvement in the way it drives, from 2 hands tight on the wheel, to 1 relaxed at cruising speed.
Old 03-30-2008, 06:00 AM
  #29  
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Default Called SuperLift

After reading all of the comments here I called Superlift asked them about the catser and the can bolts and which would be better uppers or lowers. They finally told me lowers. The added benefit as mention in this thread is more groung clearence as well. I ordered them today off 4ws.com for 282.00. I will install them this week and let you guys know how it goes.

as for the wheels, I was getiing shimmy and so finally took to a tire shop and had them balanced. Every tire took weight and now it handles better. I should have known. I stopped payment on the check (100.00) for that other shop. He set the toe in wrong and didn't balance the tires. I thought about going over there and beating his ass but by wife talked me out of it. Oh well a lesson learned.

I'll take some pics and post them when I put the lower on.
Old 03-30-2008, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by bly109
you can always buy a $20 angle finder and check it yourself.

I got an angle finder. My caster is 1 degree! I gotta fix that.


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