Jusebochs

Quick background – before I got my jeep I knew very little about how vehicles worked. Certainly, I am still a complete n00b but I’m learning a ton, and that’s probably been one of the best parts of owning my first Jeep. Point is, I may still reference things incorrectly so feel free to correct me if I am off in my terminology or am mistaken.

My Jeep is a 2008 JK X with 3.73 gear ratio and automatic transmission. So, I’m planning on lifting my Jeep sometime in the next two months. I plan on doing the work myself with my Jeep’in buddy and am putting a parts list together and trying to decide between two builds. If you have any thoughts on brand / package changes please share.

First build: 3” Lift with 35’s: ~$4,400

Second Build: 2.5” Lift with 35”: Total Cost ~$3700The killer for me is it seems that if I go with option one or two it seems I need to purchase all components at once before I can begin (maybe with the exception of the front drive shaft. Am I correct there? Thanks for all your help folks - you're threads are invaluable!


Forum Build: 3” Lift with 35’s: ~$5105

smcastillo

Ring and Pinion has to be done front and back, the cheapest I have seen a front and back kit is $400 from northridge4x4.com. But you then have to pay for the install which 600-1000 dollars depending on where you get it done. The rear track bar bracket will keep your stock track bar(static as you said) but it raises the mount on the axle to compensate for length as well as keeps the track bar at a better angle to the axle. The rear sway bar links are not extenders, but new links that are longer to also accommodate for the lift.

I would go with the first out of those two. Having adjustable control arms is a big deal. You will be able to adjust the angle of your axles, which will be needed if you switch to after market drive shafts. What does that kit recommend as far as drive shafts? Does it say to change both? You can do the lift and see what rubs and then change just which one is needed. If only one has to be changed out at first then it will save you a little money right now. But if you can afford it, it wont hurt anything but your wallet to change out both right away, and not have to worry about it.

Sal

desertdawg

Don't forget the R&P install kits; this will run you close to another $300. Oh, and you will probably need wheel spacers too.

My Teraflex 2.5 coil lift ended up being 3.5" in the front and 2.5" in the back (on my 2-door X). This made it necessary to get the driveshaft upgrades and reset driveline angles (my rear DS seal lasted about 500 miles, started leaking on my first off-road trip after the lift). Don't use cam bolts to set the angles, get adjustable rear-upper and front-lower control arms.

Piginajeep

if your going to spend that kinda money, Upgrade to the Fulltraction Ultimate

it gives you full adjustable control arms, and track bars, no track bar brackets.

smcastillo

http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...INSTALL&cat=36

Here is front and rear gears with install kit for $400. And As long as his new rims are 4.5'' of backspacing or under he will not need wheel spacers.

Northridge4x4

If you are looking at going with the FT system I would go with the basic or the ultimate kit. I have been running the ultimate kit on my 4 door for about 2 years now and it works great. I am not a fan of the Premuim kit though.

You will also need 4 shocks.

2 ring and pinions

and the drievshafts will run you about 450 each shipped.

If you would like some help and A great deal please give me a call

Thanks
David

bigbluejk

david is a great guy and has great deals. When I upped my Jeep to 35s I got my 3" TF kit, gears, shocks and stuff all from him.

racer83l

my opinion......

dont get BFG AT's. get either BFG Mud terrain KM2's or the new Goodyear MT/r's with Kevlar. they are both wonderful tires, even for a daily or street driven Jeep. (35" A/T's irk me)

As for the lift, I originally had a 2.5" BB which SEEMED complete to me... its not. need front adjustable control arms, front driveshaft, and rear trackbar minimum IMO to be complete... (I tore the boot on my DS with the 2.5" lift)(obviously these items would take the cost out of "Budget Boost" territory)

between your 2 choices,
I would pick none.
I recently ordered AEV's 3.5" Premium lift, and added Currie front lower arms, already have a 1310 front driveshaft. (not going to use the cam bolts that come in the kit)

But like everyone else, I would buy it all from David over at Northridge4x4.com.

As far as gears go, I didnt change mine out, Im running 3.73's (I might eventually go to 5.13's) and an Auto trans, just say goodbye to O/D and they are liveable. The suspension setup sucked more than anything for me and to me it was more important to get that fixed before moving on.

bigbluejk

its weird when I see a comment like racer's about the gears... cause I had 4.10s and thought it was unbearable. He is not the first 3.73 guy I have seen say that they didn't think it was too bad. I think you should lift it and buy tires and stuff first before you gear it. You may not care I guess.

nthinuf

Unfortunately, that would be an incorrect assumption. People are reporting driveshaft issues with as little as 2", (auto's, specifically), and the TF coils are known to be tall. That 2.5" coil should put you in the 3-3.5" range.

This depends on what driving characteristics you are willing to live with before you upgrade/add components.

You can easily start with a basic lift, see how it rides, and build from there. Add a single set of front lower adjustable control arms to set the caster, instead of four sets of 'fixed' arms. Add rear upper adj ca's if/when you add new rear driveshaft. Brake line extensions are cheap and easy to make from a quick trip to the hardware store. If you don't mind the front axle being a bit off-center, wait on adding the new adj trackbar or bracket up front. etc...

Anyway, you do have lots of options for a slow build other than dropping 3-4k at once.

Also, as the others have mentioned, figure on $1000-$1500 for the gears, depending on who does the work. (parts and labor for both ends, out the door)