Thought I’d start a new thread instead of wearing the other one out...here’s a few other pics I took of the front suspensions. Don’t know if it the right angles for anyone to help but just wanted to know your input on this setup? Also trying to post a video of some slight play in the ball joints

 

idk why your pics keep turning sideways, but it's easier to see with a space in between the pictures so I hope you don't mind I inserted a few.

Factory BJs, so start thinking about an upgrade. Factory DL, so if you plan to stay at 3.5", keep a high steer in mind. You have no front bump stops there....you likely need some. Factory TR, which can bend easily if you really stress it out while wheelin. I'm not a fan of double SS, but whatevs.

 

thanks for your insight. Wasn’t sure on ball joints being the rig only has 51k miles. Although I went ahead and purchased new ones in case I decide to go ahead and swap them out. Not sure what high steer means? I’m a newbie might want to elaborate more.....double SS was on it when I purchase the Jeep and seems most can live without it but it’s there so I’m ok with it. As far as off-road use, won’t be happening anytime soon bc this will be my wife’s DD until we get it paid for in a year or so....my main concern for now is getting it safe and comfortable for the road.

 

In regards to the "high steer"...when you lift the jeep, obviously all connections between the frame and the axle become steeper. When you get up over 3-3.5", the angles at which the drag link and track bar run are really quite steep. The result is bump steer....when you hit a bump or a pot hole and the steering wheel jerks quickly. This is also compounded by having low caster. So, a solution when lifting to those heights is that you take the drag link and "flip" it so it mounts on top of the knuckle instead of from below. The DL and TB need to stay parallel to each other, so at the same time you add a bracket to the axle which raises the TB mount by the same amount.

Here is a picture of my front end as reference -



See how flat my drag link which you see above the TR is? You can barely see my TB hiding back there.

To keep the jeep driving nicely for your wife, I think you're on the right track. Lower the height, adjust caster, and replace ball joints with something decent. Not to be rude, but the quality of components on the jeep right now are low end and incomplete as we've been alluding too. They really aren't worth trying to build around and "make the best of a situation" if you ask me. Modified jeeps look cool, but as you're seeing, they are seldom built properly. I get uneasy when I see people buying modified jeeps for their wife or kids. These steering and suspension systems just aren't like other vehicles on the road, and they are not maintenance free, and when there are issues, they can have dire consequences. I've had DW a few times and it's no joke at all. It's not just scary, it's extremly dangerous. If your spouse is going to be driving it, I would not jack around when it comes to decent ball joints, a good track bar, and caster correction. Those are the 3 top priorities. The rest of the suspension takes a back seat to those in regard to a safe jeep IMO.

 

thank you also for your input as well. The balljoints I bought were Moog. Found all 4 for a decent price so I took the bait. Im assuming they’re a decent brand? As far as my lift, basically only thing that’s not oem is the coil springs,shocks, and trackbar. is the RC brand that bad I should consider replacing those items with something else? I’m not an expert by any means but I believe the DL flip kit and a set of CA drop brackets would vastly improve the steering and handling of our JKU that I wouldn’t have to worry if my wife drives it alone.

 

Improve, yes. Enough to not worry? Depends. Caster correction should take care of the flighty steering, draglink flip should take care of bumpsteer, rear raised trackbar bracket should help with body roll. If the current ball joints are bad, replacing them will help. Will all of this together cure the deathwobble from your initial thread?

 

considering those are factory BJs, I'm putting my money on them. I actually think the RC track bar is half decent considering the joints they use in it, so I don't think the wobble was related to those specific joints and we've seen the bracket holes look ok. There's been so much back and forth in a few threads that I can't recall for sure, but seems like you noted there was movement when testing the ball joints......although I may be thinking of a different member.

Which ball joints did you purchase? Hopefully you're not planning to put factory back in there as they won't hold up.

 

the BJs I bought were Moog. I’m hoping they’re a decent brand....just looking at them they seem like a solid product. I’m trying to post a video of the bj play but it keeps saying the file size is too large. With the Jeep on jack stands grabbing the tire and trying to move it looking for play it seems solid...however, using the shovel under the tire method i do see very slight movement of the joint on both sides. The Jeep is a ‘13 with only 50k miles so I wasn’t sure the play in the bj I’m seeing is enough to warrant changing them.

 

If you see any play, it's not good. I'm on my phone so not easy for me to grab at the moment. I think it's synergy that shows a cross section of the factory bjs so you can see what's inside those. Moog is only better really in that they have a grease zerk. New bj's and control arm brackets will make a major improvemnet. Personally, i'd scrap the springs and lower it to a decent 2.5" spring. At that heght you dont need a high steer kit. The rc track bar isnt bad, and the springs would be liveable if they just werent so high. If it has rc shocks on it, they are terrible.

 

Moog has a version that is adjustable for Caster/Camber, did you happen to get that type?

Also, an old thread here indicated that there was a clearance issue due to the zerk placement on the lower Moog balljoints. If I remember correctly, they were talking about capping that zerk, or swapping to a right-angle zerk. Worth looking into a bit more.