urmyboyblue

So I guess I'm not really asking "Can I do this safely" since I've read and read and it seems that a D30 is just weak sauce BUT...I'm still a few grand less than what a PR44 would be not-installed and really just don't do enough hardcore wheeling to justify it. The feeling I do is watery, muddy, some rocky, and who knows, if my wife starts enjoying off-roading, maybe I'll make it out west some time.

But, Blue is going under the knife next week and I'm just making sure I'm not forgetting anything...You're welcome to critique but hoping I can get suggestions on anything I might be forgetting.

Current setup is a 3.5" lift on 35 Trail Grappler's on a 14 JKU. Next week I'm getting beefed up, regeared, and locked. The rear 44 gets an ARB and 4.56's. The front 30 gets:

ARB locker
4.56s
Synergy C gussets
Synergy ball joints
Artec truss
ARB cover

So...I've neglected sleeves for the simple fact I split the difference -- so many threads talk about just the C's, others say sleeves and C's, others say trusses and C's. I figured gussets and truss will give enough support (hopefully).

I've also left off CA skids because again, not many huge rocks in So FL so I figured I could be OK.

Other than shafts, which I'll get shortly, any other suggestions to increase the longevity on my D30? At SOME POINT, I'm debating 37's but I'm just going to tinker with the 35's until I wear them down more and see how things have held up.

karls10jk

Check clearance on your diff cover, that ARB is massive and contacts the tie rod on my tj.

urmyboyblue

Good deal. Will do. I read a post about that...I was hesitant but then said screw it!

nthinuf

That's a ton of money to dump into a d30. Have you looked at the ebay seller doing sub-$2000 rubi axles with your choice of gears? Then add the gussets/truss. And then sell your d30 for whatever you can get for it. Seems like it might make more sense than spending 3 grand beefing up a d30, and ending up with a d30...

But back to your question, truss and gussets seem to get more approval on here the last year or so than sleeves, so probably the right choice. And if you want to save a bit of money, look at a lunchbox or truetrac instead of the selectable.

Invest2m4

This exactly. Sell your axle for $500. Get the new Rubi axle for under $2000. You'll be break even to a little ahead. No need to buy ball joints as new stockers will last a while. Plus, you can weld a truss and gussets on with the axle off, which is way easier. Plus, when you go to sell it, you'll get what you paid for it and the parts. When you go to sell the built D30, you'll be lucky to get $1000.

And, you save money with not needing a compressor.

Maertz

I love my grizzly. Selectable is nice, but i dont know that id do one up front for the price difference.

sahara4me

The truss won't save the thin walled 30 or 44's, adding sleeves helps this, if your not jumping it or bouncing it ridiculously then its no need for a truss. The sleeves also help prevent axle breakage because it keeps shaft deflection down. C Gussets are a must. Chromoly shafts are great to have but with a 30 your making the gears the weak point (weaker than they already are). You can buy spare stock shafts quite cheap off the forums if you break one out on the trail and its not hard to replace one either. I have a fully built 30 that I've beat on with 37s for years now and its help up like a champ but i know what and what not to do to make it live.

urmyboyblue

Thanks all for the input. To answer a couple of questions...I did look for the eBay seller as I remembered seeing them not too long ago but couldn't find him anymore. :( maybe I'm goofy but I did search.

As for the 30...I initially was just going to regear and rear locker. Northridge has a deal on a package deal which I thought was rather nice so I said screw it. Got that deal.

I was going to do gussets anyway for peace of mind but figured what's another $200 so the truss entered the picture. Ultimately, I'm getting everything AND installed for under $4k so I "think" it's decent. I figured if I got a Rubi axle, I'd still regear to the 4.56s and gussets so I'm paying for labor too. It really came to a coin toss.

Thanks a ton for the input. Know it's been beat to death on "Can I" but figured I'd toss out what I'm doing and go for any missing items. At the end of the day, I'm still going to get a 44, whether Rubi and build it or PR and have it waiting for a long weekend to dork with.

TheDirtman

I would pass on the truss as well.

Invest2m4

I paid $4k for a front and rear set of almost new Rubi axles that were already regeared to 4.88. Front axle had sleeves, gussets, synergy ball joints, synergy tie rod, RCV axle shafts, and ARB diff cover. Rear had chromoly shafts and ARB diff cover. I sold my stock axles for $1200. Net cost was $2800. Sometimes a little patience and effort looking is worth it. I've seen a ton of Rubi axle sets for sale lately.