4W-Jive

Greetings.
I would like to hear feedback on my build path. I have been on 33's, building to 37s. I want 37's as opposed to 35's for axle clearance (lots of rocks in CO) as well as ride comfort on the trail, I'd love to drop several more PSI and still have some cushion before rim damage.
I'll start with a little info about me and my JK. I have a 2 door 2012 Rubicon that I bought new, and drove and wheeled stock for a year before any real mods. This previous summer I wheeled about every weekend, taking one off here and there. That being said, this is my daily driver and I live in Denver CO. Currently I most prefer trails around the 6-8 rating, 9 if there are bypasses, but I always enjoy an easier rating if there is scenery. I don't have a far commute, but who knows, that may change.
My current setup: 2" OME coils, regular duty. I've added some armor and measured my actual lift height recently to be 1 and 7/8". These are with 5100s. I have JKS track bars front and rear, with a welded on axle side reinforcement in the rear mount. I've added upper gussets to the front C's, and will do sleeves and probably BJ's this month (before the 37's)
My wheels are aluminum 17x9 with 4" BS, currently I have STT 285/70/17. I don't run bump stops other than factory. I'm running the TF hinge and mount for a tire carrier, ARB stubby front with Zeon 10-s, and ORF sliders with rocker armor.
I will trim the pinch seam in front of the rear tire.
I plan to cut my fender flairs until I can go with aluminum crushers. I also plan to add the Evo Rockstars for rear lower CA mount skid and shock relocation.
I will add a rear bumper also, which leads me to my next question: Should I upgrade springs? I could easily make a switch to OME HD or...? (still stock CA's and steering)
I have stock 4.10's. I don't want to regear this year at least, it will be a while before I can afford chromo too.

Thanks for reading all of this if you did. I switched to my computer to type this out, I'll post with my phone in a minute to add some pics.
Thanks for any intelligent, informed, and non-repetitious or obvious input you may have.
Happy New Year.

4W-Jive

Flexer07

Your at a great start. All I have is c gussets on mine. And mine is holding up great.

karls

You're planning on running a 37" on the tailgate.....depending on the amount of weight you're looking to add, the heavier coils would be a good idea.

You mention slevees on the front axle- is there a particular reason you are looking at that over a truss? Depending on where you go with your suspension up front (if you elect to change things up to match the rear), you may want to look at the Nemesis Industries brackets to move your shocks. I have the same 5100's and under full articulation the body will touch the frame and eventually that *can* lead to shaft failure.

4W-Jive

Yes, I'm sleeving over trussing because I think BJs should be done, and it makes sense to do them together. Right? And I can truss at a later date and that will have nothing to do with my BJs.
As far as the shock brackets, that's cool I didn't know nemesis made those. They are a local company. However, the fine tuning of my suspension will come after, including CAs and whatnot.

Yes the spare in the rear, (not really tailgate, more hinge). That 1 and 7/8" measurement I got was at the front shock. Rear is probably sitting a touch higher without a metal bumper back there (for now) I would like to swap out to the HD coils I think.

karls

The reason I make mention of a truss over a sleeve is because the sleeve can limit your axle shaft options down the road (if I recall that information correctly). The sleeve will give you some strength but the truss comes more highly recommended due to the increased strength and the way it distributes the load.

4W-Jive

I inquired about the limiting of shaft choices with the shop who did my gussets and will do my sleeves ( I do all other work myself) and he said there would be no limitations regarding shafts.
Plus if I do a truss now then I couldn't afford ball joints. If I do a sleeve now I can afford both. But I agree with you, and I will be paranoid about load distribution. But what can ya do, I have to make choices.

karls

The truss shouldn't be something that you've got to do with BJ's, typically that's done with your C's (that you've already got covered). As much sleeves would be 'good', I'm not sure it would be worth your money. You would almost better putting that $$$ towards your future truss. Contact Travis (brut4ce) and see what he's got to say on the issue. He does many trusses and runs the trails in his spare time, it may be a good source of info on the topic.

BIGNICK

I'd double check before you sleeve I was looking a few months back and I believe there was only one or two options for for aftermarket axles with sleeves tubes. You can't take those bad boys out once there in.

4W-Jive

This is constructive back and forth, and believe me I'm not trying to criticize Travis here.

It's my understanding that an axle should be removed and heated uniformly to properly weld on a truss due to the fact that you wouldn't want half of the axle metal heated and expanded while welding a truss onto it. That could cause warping. I think Travis goes slow and welds while the axle is on the jeep. That's all well and good but he's not local to me. My shop, great guy, believes in removing, stripping, and uniformly heating and cooling the axle, and that makes complete sense to me, but costs more than Travis's method.

As far as ball joints, I know they have nothing to do with a truss. That's my point. I would take care of them while doing the sleeves.

Tag, you're in.