No Name

Looking for some help...

Did the Rubicon trail a few weeks ago. I mention this because who knows might help diagnose... Been chasing odd noises and cataloging trail damage ever since. I ordered but did not get in time for that trip, some Falcon adjustable shocks. Didn’t change them before I went and had some COMPLETELY BLOWN shocks before and after. I mention this because there may or may not be other factors I might be missing... ?

So I do the Rubicon and just this weekend change out the shocks and steering stabiliser. After the trail - which if you have done it, beats the bejesus out of everything- it drove and tracked fine. And illuminated that there is other stuff going on though. Sway bar link bushings toast, lots of lower control arm bracket hits, some bent metal, and a fist sized dent in the tranny support cross brace. Again, after the trail, drove and tracked fine! Two weeks fine...

So, I feel like losing my mind here, and could use some help.

I change the shocks and stabiliser, and THEN the jeep pulls left, and the steering wheel off center enough to trigger ABS at 75MPH.... WHAT?!? Was not expecting this. And BTW no change to track bar during installation of the stabiliser- the track bar adjusting clamp bolts were clear, so I left those alone. Not part of the equation. So I think...

I changed the shocks and it looked like it was sitting A Little higher as soon as I put it down. I dismissed this, because that should not be possible. But then took a ride and found the pull, and the wheel center changed a lot. Am I missing something? What could have changed? (Other than the shocks and stabiliser which shouldn’t have changed anything)

This is a daily- so went into correcting- found the track of the front end off center (which seemed fine before this). And recenter the steering wheel ALOT! It still pulls a bit, which I don’t like as the wife drives it. Shocks should not change ride height or track bar - which seems to be what happened???

So for the Falcon stabiliser- you need to pull the track bar bolt at the axle - There is only one stock hole - right out, then a new one right back in, that the stabiliser is then on. (Other lift kits have other brackets that move this hole - I don’t)

So nearest I can tell - my ride height changed by like an inch - which should not be possible in a shock change right?

any ideas?

jadmt

no something else is amiss as I have falkon shocks and have installed falkons for others and while they are high pressure they are not any higher pressure than any other monotube type shock. If your steering wheel was off center I would be looking at the turn buckle to make sure it is not slipping. easy way to check to see if your ss is causing the pulling is to remove it and see what happens.

No Name

I noticed the steering pole before the SS, and after the shocks. But did not notice that the steering centre was off, and the track was off. right after I did the shocks, I kind of noticed all of this.

As for the access, there is a questionable part of their instructions - of which part there may be a mis-measurement - of how to make both sides of an equal. (to the bushing closure, or to the outside tube?) i’m going to try pulling it off and giving it a shot as you suggest. That might explain the pull to the left.

A lot of this does not seem to justify how the track and wheel centre became off. I’m trying to replay I n my mind, all instances of driving it over the last few weeks. Because I believe that the track bar shifted. Is that possible to hit something hard enough to make it jump a few threads? And I did not notice it before? As mentioned a few weeks ago I did the Rubicon and beat the bejesus out of this Jeep. I have already checked for a bent axle (Seems good?), and there is a noise up front but I cannot identify yet.

I did this lift kit myself several years ago, and was really precise about it. but this weekend, it’s like almost a half inch off... The SS replacement bolt for the Falcon is the only thing that really changed in this equation, there is only one hole, and the bolt fits rather snuggly. My mind is blown at the moment. But like I said somewhere between the shocks, and the steering stabiliser something in the track bar changed...

TheDirtman

moving from a shock with no pressure charge to one with will raise the vehicle. The higher the charge the more it will raise the vehicle. Raising the vehicle would throw off the steering wheel because of the drag link and the axles will side shift due to the track bars.

jadmt

the Falcons are charged to 100psi. I doubt that is going to raise you enough to mess your steering wheel up. The OP said the steering wheel was off a lot. it would be easy to see how much just unbolt the shocks at the lower mount and pop them out and see what happens to the height of the vehicle. take about 20 minutes and at least you would know.

No Name

I’ve been thinking about it last night on nightshift today in my off moment. And I’m thinking that my answer is going to be accumulative.

i’m thinking I definitely did some severe damage on the Rubicon, and did not notice it as match on the drive home. More on that in a moment.

When I did the shocks, and said it back down, it was noticeably higher. I think that added a little bit more track bar offset. As I put the old ones out of the trash, and they had next to no pressure. The new ones are considerably more - and x4 - definitely a ride height change.

Then, I did the steering stabiliser, and although it shouldn’t, also added a minute bit more steering and offset on the track bar.

On the Rubicon trip I tweaked the crossmembers under the tranny. And a number of large hits up front. I’m now suspecting that I tweaked the whole frame.

Still don’t have it at an alignment shop yet, as I’m a workaholic, but I would likely have the wife take it in. Just to see where the numbers are at. But at the moment, I am really suspecting that I have knocked the frame out of square. and it’s the little increments of change with the new shocks that made me notice it. When I know more, I’ll post back.

resharp001

There are a lot of us that beat the crap out of these things. I'm not saying that it's impossible, but I'd be pretty surprised if you eff'd up the entire frame out of square.

When you say you tweaked weak ass wimpy bar under the tranny, or the main crossmember that really just needs to be a heavy duty version on the 4dr anyhow? Wouldn't be shocked if you dinged or crushed those a bit, but would think it would take major damage on a corner to tweak a frame.

Outside of it sitting a little higher, is there a real issue going on here, or are you just curious in general why it's higher? Think you're just overthinking things a bit.

No Name

Over-thinking it - yeah - highly likely.... Hey I'm honest!

But not being a stranger to a wrench - I typically am not one to reach out to a forum for such stuff. - But this one has thrown me for a loop. I do trouble shooting (electrical) for a living, no stranger to problem solving. In this the cause/effect was so 'off'.... So figured "Hey maybe this happens to a bunch of people?" Maybe everyone that goes from TF 9550 shocks with 80k miles and blown seals - to $1500 worth of wow has this problem??? I was kind of hoping for "oh yeah happens all the time..."

Yeah - I'm pretty sure just the extra pressure in these shock vs the old ones just illuminated a bigger issue I may have been ignoring, in denial of, or didn't notice the effects of. I think it was that extra little bit up upward pressure was enough to trigger the ABS, and make me really take notice. Because that's a lot of fun on the freeway. I'll be honest talking this out here has helped the thought process.

SO - Changing the shocks 'restored the 3" lift'. AND - I either jumped like a 1/2" of threads on the track bar, because i had to move it that much (No evidence it did) - Or tweaked the frame....

Now thinking the latter... The shocks and the ABS trigger just made me pay attention. But - Last night I was thinking about it and had an oh crap moment - an epiphany of geometry. I work with a lot of carpenters, and have put in doors and other stuff like that before myself. Just like any other square frame, a little pressure here or there can throw it all off in big ways.

The cross members are very visibly bowed. The little guy in front of the exhaust is up about 1.5" - the strap to the big cross member had to be bent back from touching the exhaust. (still kind of touches) The large cross member bows up about 1", and has a fist sized cavity punched up in it. I'm pretty sure these are moving the 'waist' of the jeep inward or outward. And throwing the whole geometry of the frame off. Its the only thing that makes everything else make sense so far. (To include all the other weird body noises) Now I just need to confirm or discount it. Good thing is that they are both replaceable bolt on things, if it turns out to be the case... Maybe justify a skid plate or two to help lock it back in place.

Looking for a frame measurement reference for a JKU... - I'll be spending next weekend on page 320
http://www.moparrepairconnection.ca/...p-wrangler.pdf

That 550.1 number which is at the skinny cross bar - if off a lot will push in or out, and force the rest of the frame around.

No Name

Removed the SS and it still pulled right. And the track bar turnbuckle didnt seem to have evidence that it moved - until I moved it... After I found out the wheels were not on center anymore. The old shock I pulled out of the trash, there was nothing to them anymore. I could compress them easy. (they were spent - owe me nothing ) The new ones i had to wrestle with, like put my back into it. Thinking my 3" lift was down to 2.5" - now back at a solid 3" - well without me in it...

karls10jk

That little cross member is a tough cookie. I ended up replacing mine because of how torn up it was, but it won't tweak your frame. The bolts have enough play where they mount on the sides that it'll shift a little.





My damage was too large of rocks, too small of tires, and about 180k miles at that point??