EVO MFG 4" DoubleD JK Bolt On Long Arm Kit
12-10-2012, 10:13 AM
#21
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Sorry for the bad quality i just ran out and took the pic with my phone.
Last edited by rubicon7879; 01-08-2013 at 08:57 AM.
12-10-2012, 10:43 AM
#22
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12-17-2012, 09:35 AM
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11-30-2013, 04:07 PM
#25
[QUOTE=rubicon7879;3330770]We just didn't like the way the kit left that bracket hanging down. Everything was getting welded on anyway so this is what we ended up with.
Why are the upper control arm joints mounted what appears to be sideways? does this limit the flex?
Also, can this kit be upgraded to go a couple inches taller?
Why are the upper control arm joints mounted what appears to be sideways? does this limit the flex?
Also, can this kit be upgraded to go a couple inches taller?
05-17-2015, 12:00 PM
#26
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[QUOTE=Supallac;3770013]
I curious about the exact same thing! I know this is a vey old thread, but maybe by now someone has an answer!
Was also wondering if the install instructions are available online somewhere. I've found nothing on the EVO MFG site or the ORE website.
I'm new to all of this. Have been researching lifts and suspensions for weeks trying to figure out what I want to do with my wife's 2013 2R Rubicon. I don't mind spending the money to get it right, but I do mind having to spend twice because I didn't get it right the first time.
We just didn't like the way the kit left that bracket hanging down. Everything was getting welded on anyway so this is what we ended up with.
Why are the upper control arm joints mounted what appears to be sideways? does this limit the flex?
Also, can this kit be upgraded to go a couple inches taller?
Why are the upper control arm joints mounted what appears to be sideways? does this limit the flex?
Also, can this kit be upgraded to go a couple inches taller?
Was also wondering if the install instructions are available online somewhere. I've found nothing on the EVO MFG site or the ORE website.
I'm new to all of this. Have been researching lifts and suspensions for weeks trying to figure out what I want to do with my wife's 2013 2R Rubicon. I don't mind spending the money to get it right, but I do mind having to spend twice because I didn't get it right the first time.
Last edited by Vtwinwilly; 05-17-2015 at 12:11 PM.
05-17-2015, 12:55 PM
#27
JK Junkie
[QUOTE=Vtwinwilly;4100425]
I curious about the exact same thing! I know this is a vey old thread, but maybe by now someone has an answer!
Was also wondering if the install instructions are available online somewhere. I've found nothing on the EVO MFG site or the ORE website.
I'm new to all of this. Have been researching lifts and suspensions for weeks trying to figure out what I want to do with my wife's 2013 2R Rubicon. I don't mind spending the money to get it right, but I do mind having to spend twice because I didn't get it right the first time.
4" is a lot of lift for a 2-door. The coils are not specific from 2-door to 4-door (as far as I know), so you will very likely end up with more lift. That will require additional steering upgrades (drag link flip, etc).
The JKs are really a "mid arm" suspension. While the TJs benefitted significantly to a long arm upgrade, the JK doesn't benefit much at all unless you are going to run a serious amount of travel - 14" or more.
Joints can be mounted clocked 90 degrees. I assume they did it for packaging.
Also note that your exhaust loop will have to go as the front lower arm will hit it. In summary, there are many bolt on kits on the market that cost the same or less and will provide as good or better performance. Spend the savings on parts that allow you to maximize suspension travel, such as high clearance flat fenders. Also keep in mind that you can easily run 37s on 2.5" of lift and 40s on under 4". If you want a high performing trail rig, think lower center of gravity and maximum up travel. Take a look at something like the MetalCloak Game Changer with 6pak shocks. 14" of travel, and a focus on up travel. You can run 37s on 2.5" of lift and if you run their fenders, you can get all 14" (or darn close anyway).
I curious about the exact same thing! I know this is a vey old thread, but maybe by now someone has an answer!
Was also wondering if the install instructions are available online somewhere. I've found nothing on the EVO MFG site or the ORE website.
I'm new to all of this. Have been researching lifts and suspensions for weeks trying to figure out what I want to do with my wife's 2013 2R Rubicon. I don't mind spending the money to get it right, but I do mind having to spend twice because I didn't get it right the first time.
The JKs are really a "mid arm" suspension. While the TJs benefitted significantly to a long arm upgrade, the JK doesn't benefit much at all unless you are going to run a serious amount of travel - 14" or more.
Joints can be mounted clocked 90 degrees. I assume they did it for packaging.
Also note that your exhaust loop will have to go as the front lower arm will hit it. In summary, there are many bolt on kits on the market that cost the same or less and will provide as good or better performance. Spend the savings on parts that allow you to maximize suspension travel, such as high clearance flat fenders. Also keep in mind that you can easily run 37s on 2.5" of lift and 40s on under 4". If you want a high performing trail rig, think lower center of gravity and maximum up travel. Take a look at something like the MetalCloak Game Changer with 6pak shocks. 14" of travel, and a focus on up travel. You can run 37s on 2.5" of lift and if you run their fenders, you can get all 14" (or darn close anyway).
05-18-2015, 09:50 AM
#28
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[QUOTE=Invest2m4;4100432]
4" is a lot of lift for a 2-door. The coils are not specific from 2-door to 4-door (as far as I know), so you will very likely end up with more lift. That will require additional steering upgrades (drag link flip, etc).
The JKs are really a "mid arm" suspension. While the TJs benefitted significantly to a long arm upgrade, the JK doesn't benefit much at all unless you are going to run a serious amount of travel - 14" or more.
Joints can be mounted clocked 90 degrees. I assume they did it for packaging.
Also note that your exhaust loop will have to go as the front lower arm will hit it. In summary, there are many bolt on kits on the market that cost the same or less and will provide as good or better performance. Spend the savings on parts that allow you to maximize suspension travel, such as high clearance flat fenders. Also keep in mind that you can easily run 37s on 2.5" of lift and 40s on under 4". If you want a high performing trail rig, think lower center of gravity and maximum up travel. Take a look at something like the MetalCloak Game Changer with 6pak shocks. 14" of travel, and a focus on up travel. You can run 37s on 2.5" of lift and if you run their fenders, you can get all 14" (or darn close anyway).
Invest2m4,
Thanks for the quick response. Really thought this thread was so old no one would reply. At least that was my expectation.
Yes! 4 inches is a lot of lift for a 2dr and really more than I want, but the discussion here was in a related field. What I was really thinking about was using this "Bolt On" Long Arm kit in conjunctions with the "Bolt On" Coil Over Suspension. ( I think EVO sells this as a complete kit).
The Coil Overs can be set to a lift height of anywhere from 3 to 5 inches. My thought was to set the coil overs to their lowest setting, and go with the long arms so that most bumps and impacts are transferred up the spring and shock, not up the control arms. The goal being to produce a smooth supple ride on the road, and a long travel suspension for off-road.
It seems there is very little information on the installation of either of these systems. I found a blog and a forum post from others who had done the install and both said "... there were no instructions in the box!!!" Huh? Seems there's a whole lot of figuring stuff out on your own. I'm not sure if that's an oversight, or by design (i.e., to encourage shade tree mechanics like myself to seek professional installation services). In any event, I typically will refer to the installation manuals just to learn more about a system before I purchase and install it. ...whether I do it myself, or pay someone else to do it.
I will certainly take a look at the MetaCloak Game Changer system you mentioned above.
Now with all that said... Looking at the pic of the EVO Bolt On Long Arm kit (a few post back), it looks as though the front upper control arm is mounted sideways with the bolt running through the eye vertically. Seems to me this would bind and prevent up and down swing of the control arm. At a minimum, it seems like it would tear up the bushings and possibly bend the bracket. Am I missing something? Is the picture just an illusion? Is there another flexible joint in the arm I can't see?
Thanks again for you help.
4" is a lot of lift for a 2-door. The coils are not specific from 2-door to 4-door (as far as I know), so you will very likely end up with more lift. That will require additional steering upgrades (drag link flip, etc).
The JKs are really a "mid arm" suspension. While the TJs benefitted significantly to a long arm upgrade, the JK doesn't benefit much at all unless you are going to run a serious amount of travel - 14" or more.
Joints can be mounted clocked 90 degrees. I assume they did it for packaging.
Also note that your exhaust loop will have to go as the front lower arm will hit it. In summary, there are many bolt on kits on the market that cost the same or less and will provide as good or better performance. Spend the savings on parts that allow you to maximize suspension travel, such as high clearance flat fenders. Also keep in mind that you can easily run 37s on 2.5" of lift and 40s on under 4". If you want a high performing trail rig, think lower center of gravity and maximum up travel. Take a look at something like the MetalCloak Game Changer with 6pak shocks. 14" of travel, and a focus on up travel. You can run 37s on 2.5" of lift and if you run their fenders, you can get all 14" (or darn close anyway).
Thanks for the quick response. Really thought this thread was so old no one would reply. At least that was my expectation.
Yes! 4 inches is a lot of lift for a 2dr and really more than I want, but the discussion here was in a related field. What I was really thinking about was using this "Bolt On" Long Arm kit in conjunctions with the "Bolt On" Coil Over Suspension. ( I think EVO sells this as a complete kit).
The Coil Overs can be set to a lift height of anywhere from 3 to 5 inches. My thought was to set the coil overs to their lowest setting, and go with the long arms so that most bumps and impacts are transferred up the spring and shock, not up the control arms. The goal being to produce a smooth supple ride on the road, and a long travel suspension for off-road.
It seems there is very little information on the installation of either of these systems. I found a blog and a forum post from others who had done the install and both said "... there were no instructions in the box!!!" Huh? Seems there's a whole lot of figuring stuff out on your own. I'm not sure if that's an oversight, or by design (i.e., to encourage shade tree mechanics like myself to seek professional installation services). In any event, I typically will refer to the installation manuals just to learn more about a system before I purchase and install it. ...whether I do it myself, or pay someone else to do it.
I will certainly take a look at the MetaCloak Game Changer system you mentioned above.
Now with all that said... Looking at the pic of the EVO Bolt On Long Arm kit (a few post back), it looks as though the front upper control arm is mounted sideways with the bolt running through the eye vertically. Seems to me this would bind and prevent up and down swing of the control arm. At a minimum, it seems like it would tear up the bushings and possibly bend the bracket. Am I missing something? Is the picture just an illusion? Is there another flexible joint in the arm I can't see?
Thanks again for you help.
Last edited by Vtwinwilly; 05-18-2015 at 09:53 AM.
05-18-2015, 11:14 AM
#29
JK Junkie
Both sides of the arm have joints that flex. Also, depends on what type of joint they are using. Something like a Johnny joint doesn't care as much as a rubber bushing type joint. The arc of travel on a long arm isn't all that much.
The long arm itself isn't going to improve the ride. As mentioned, the arm length of the JKs is sufficient. Getting the coilovers set right is what will make the difference. That can take some work and trying out of different spring rates.
Yes, coilovers and long arms can make for a great package. However, there are drawbacks in trying to package in a way that it will bolt on or weld on with little to no modification. You're going to be running them inboard in the rear, which is not ideal. Without seeing the kit and measuring it, I don't know if, or how much the frame side separation changes. I'm not saying they make a bad kit. What I'm saying is that there are many challenges in making it fit all the constraints without modifications. So, might be a good kit given the constraints, but that doesn't mean it's as good or better than other kits available. There are some people here that went long arm and most have said they didn't notice a difference.
Keep in mind that as you run less lift in the coilovers, all you are doing is stealing uptravel.
The long arm itself isn't going to improve the ride. As mentioned, the arm length of the JKs is sufficient. Getting the coilovers set right is what will make the difference. That can take some work and trying out of different spring rates.
Yes, coilovers and long arms can make for a great package. However, there are drawbacks in trying to package in a way that it will bolt on or weld on with little to no modification. You're going to be running them inboard in the rear, which is not ideal. Without seeing the kit and measuring it, I don't know if, or how much the frame side separation changes. I'm not saying they make a bad kit. What I'm saying is that there are many challenges in making it fit all the constraints without modifications. So, might be a good kit given the constraints, but that doesn't mean it's as good or better than other kits available. There are some people here that went long arm and most have said they didn't notice a difference.
Keep in mind that as you run less lift in the coilovers, all you are doing is stealing uptravel.
05-18-2015, 06:08 PM
#30
Long arms on a JK have benefits in terms of stability and ride quality, but they are not as dramatic as was the case with TJ. The negatives are cost and installation complexity. I ran my JKUR with a 4" stock length arm setup before I did the mfr's long arm upgrade. Is it better? Certainly, but whether it was worth the cost to upgrade is open to debate.