EVO 14" coilovers on a 2 door JK?
01-29-2009, 02:31 PM
#21
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Theres always gonna be a chance of breakage. I've ran my 40s on rubi axles for a while now and just recently broke my front driver axle. Like NGINIER was saying, you can manage 40s pretty easy, just be light over obstacles and realize its okay to back down if things get too hardcore. The real question: "Is upgrading axles worth it?" 60s front and rear will run you over 8k... To me 8k can buy a sweet rock buggy on craigslist lol. Next, you could upgrade to chromos, u-joints and gussets, which is a lot less expensive. Ten Factory sells there complete front axle upgrade kit for $735 which comes with a 10 year warranty and has 4340 Chromoly with 1350 u-joints. Last you can just fix it as the carnage comes, which has its risks, but could save you a lot. My fix cost me about $125 and was real simple.
01-29-2009, 03:02 PM
#22
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It is kinda of confusing, Motive gear bought Alloy Usa's stock and Ron Stobaugh part owner of alloy has moved to motive. Omix bought alloy/precision gear so the alloy name is dead. the Ten factory name is the new name in quality axle shafts w/ a ten year warranty. Same quality specs that alloy had now with a great big company to support it.
01-29-2009, 03:22 PM
#23
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2 Dr with 40's and Evo
I am running 40's with D60's and the full evo kit. I went with the 12" coilovers and I am glad I did. I ended up having to put limiting straps on the front to keep my front driveshaft out of the exhaust system. I don't want to lift my jeep any higher than necessary to keep the cg as low as possible for all the off camber wheelin we do around here.
01-29-2009, 03:32 PM
#24
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I am running 40's with D60's and the full evo kit. I went with the 12" coilovers and I am glad I did. I ended up having to put limiting straps on the front to keep my front driveshaft out of the exhaust system. I don't want to lift my jeep any higher than necessary to keep the cg as low as possible for all the off camber wheelin we do around here.
01-29-2009, 03:39 PM
#25
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Weight, departure and approach angles. Plus JKs weren't even out yet.
I'm more along the "hard core" side of things, it still gets driven on the street. Double beadlocks, cuttings brakes, 4 sp Atlas, 16" 2.5 King Coil overs, Air Bumps, Howe full hydro, if you get my drift. Its not exactly a daily driver but could be if I could afford tires. I don't like to be beat by an obstacle, Ill roll or break something before I back down or pull cable.
That's why I don't believe in dana 44s for over a 37, if you go out on the trail and spent thousands in suspension on tires try stuff or do yourself a favor and be a mallcrawler, not a wheeler. Sometimes you have to spin and heat the tire up to make them bite. When they bite sometimes stuff breaks but the pure satisfaction of getting over something you never thought you could and working to make it up is what its all about. Its a challenge and that's what I love. Find your weakest link, make it the cheapest and easiest thing to change. Shafts are a cheap and easy thing to change on the trail unlike blowing up a ring and pinion.
Oh and ten factory will warranty alloy stuff too I believe, that whole thing was a mess.
I'm more along the "hard core" side of things, it still gets driven on the street. Double beadlocks, cuttings brakes, 4 sp Atlas, 16" 2.5 King Coil overs, Air Bumps, Howe full hydro, if you get my drift. Its not exactly a daily driver but could be if I could afford tires. I don't like to be beat by an obstacle, Ill roll or break something before I back down or pull cable.
That's why I don't believe in dana 44s for over a 37, if you go out on the trail and spent thousands in suspension on tires try stuff or do yourself a favor and be a mallcrawler, not a wheeler. Sometimes you have to spin and heat the tire up to make them bite. When they bite sometimes stuff breaks but the pure satisfaction of getting over something you never thought you could and working to make it up is what its all about. Its a challenge and that's what I love. Find your weakest link, make it the cheapest and easiest thing to change. Shafts are a cheap and easy thing to change on the trail unlike blowing up a ring and pinion.
Oh and ten factory will warranty alloy stuff too I believe, that whole thing was a mess.
01-29-2009, 04:10 PM
#27
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So you cant run them on the stock Rubicon D44s? Kinda defeats the purpose of buying a Rubicon. I'm not hard on the throttle at all, prefer the slow and steady method of wheeling and wont be doing any 10/10 rated trails, or at least not many so knowing that would I still need to get aftermarket axles to run 38s or smaller? Just doesn't make much sense to me
01-29-2009, 04:18 PM
#28
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01-29-2009, 05:52 PM
#29
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I am running 40's with D60's and the full evo kit. I went with the 12" coilovers and I am glad I did. I ended up having to put limiting straps on the front to keep my front driveshaft out of the exhaust system. I don't want to lift my jeep any higher than necessary to keep the cg as low as possible for all the off camber wheelin we do around here.