E-Autogrilles Engine Transmission Skid Plate ?
05-20-2014, 09:55 AM
#51
JK Super Freak
I go ask a question, select any of them and press no, I wish to contact the seller and then get this prompt.
"We're sorry we couldn't find an answer for you. Unfortunately, this seller is not able to respond to your question. We suggest reviewing the item again to see if your answer is in the seller's listing."
05-23-2014, 06:55 PM
#52
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm in the process of installing the engine/transmission skid plate right now.
Overall, for the price I can't complain! The fit is good if everything is stock except for the 1 hole in the crossmember that is slightly off. As stated before, they don't supply the large M12 1.5 pitch bolts that screw into the crossmember but they do provide the rest of the hardware and also the 1 bolt that passes through the entire crossmember and is bolted on top. The hardware is cheap but works. I was lucky that my Rancho drop brackets came with some extra high quality bolts that replaced some of the skid plate hardware. The only design that I'm not thrilled about is the built in 1/2" spacing in the back to accommodate exhaust clearance issues. The spacing is about perfect for me but I wish it was a solid 1/2" spacer instead of 4 circular 1/2" spacers located around the crossmember bolt holes. I have a feeling that this could cause deformation if landed on in this area or it could easily snag when backing up.
My situation requires modifications that I expected. I'm running Ripp headers, River Raider gas tank and transfer case skids. I also just received my OR-Fab transmission crossmember which provides and additional 1/4" of ground clearance that will probably require additional mods to clear the Ripp header exhaust system. The pictures that I'm including show some of the mods based on my parts before I install the OR-Fab crossmember.
Exhaust just clears and no rattles when driving on the street aggressively shifting and popping the clutch to vibrate the drivetrain.
The 1/2" spacing that is built into the back of skid plate. I plan to either add a beveled 1/2" solid spacer or weld an angled piece to the back to act as a ramp when backing up.
I think this could be a problem when backing up.
I slotted one hole and had to drill another hole to make it fit where the River Raid transfer case skid overlapped.
It comes close to the stock Rubi axle but seems to clear just fine, Ill know when I really flex it.
Oil drain hole isn't too bad
Overall, for the price I can't complain! The fit is good if everything is stock except for the 1 hole in the crossmember that is slightly off. As stated before, they don't supply the large M12 1.5 pitch bolts that screw into the crossmember but they do provide the rest of the hardware and also the 1 bolt that passes through the entire crossmember and is bolted on top. The hardware is cheap but works. I was lucky that my Rancho drop brackets came with some extra high quality bolts that replaced some of the skid plate hardware. The only design that I'm not thrilled about is the built in 1/2" spacing in the back to accommodate exhaust clearance issues. The spacing is about perfect for me but I wish it was a solid 1/2" spacer instead of 4 circular 1/2" spacers located around the crossmember bolt holes. I have a feeling that this could cause deformation if landed on in this area or it could easily snag when backing up.
My situation requires modifications that I expected. I'm running Ripp headers, River Raider gas tank and transfer case skids. I also just received my OR-Fab transmission crossmember which provides and additional 1/4" of ground clearance that will probably require additional mods to clear the Ripp header exhaust system. The pictures that I'm including show some of the mods based on my parts before I install the OR-Fab crossmember.
Exhaust just clears and no rattles when driving on the street aggressively shifting and popping the clutch to vibrate the drivetrain.
The 1/2" spacing that is built into the back of skid plate. I plan to either add a beveled 1/2" solid spacer or weld an angled piece to the back to act as a ramp when backing up.
I think this could be a problem when backing up.
I slotted one hole and had to drill another hole to make it fit where the River Raid transfer case skid overlapped.
It comes close to the stock Rubi axle but seems to clear just fine, Ill know when I really flex it.
Oil drain hole isn't too bad
05-27-2014, 02:20 PM
#53
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm in the process of installing the engine/transmission skid plate right now. Overall, for the price I can't complain! The fit is good if everything is stock except for the 1 hole in the crossmember that is slightly off. As stated before, they don't supply the large M12 1.5 pitch bolts that screw into the crossmember but they do provide the rest of the hardware and also the 1 bolt that passes through the entire crossmember and is bolted on top. The hardware is cheap but works. I was lucky that my Rancho drop brackets came with some extra high quality bolts that replaced some of the skid plate hardware. The only design that I'm not thrilled about is the built in 1/2" spacing in the back to accommodate exhaust clearance issues. The spacing is about perfect for me but I wish it was a solid 1/2" spacer instead of 4 circular 1/2" spacers located around the crossmember bolt holes. I have a feeling that this could cause deformation if landed on in this area or it could easily snag when backing up. My situation requires modifications that I expected. I'm running Ripp headers, River Raider gas tank and transfer case skids. I also just received my OR-Fab transmission crossmember which provides and additional 1/4" of ground clearance that will probably require additional mods to clear the Ripp header exhaust system. The pictures that I'm including show some of the mods based on my parts before I install the OR-Fab crossmember. Exhaust just clears and no rattles when driving on the street aggressively shifting and popping the clutch to vibrate the drivetrain. The 1/2" spacing that is built into the back of skid plate. I plan to either add a beveled 1/2" solid spacer or weld an angled piece to the back to act as a ramp when backing up. I think this could be a problem when backing up. I slotted one hole and had to drill another hole to make it fit where the River Raid transfer case skid overlapped. It comes close to the stock Rubi axle but seems to clear just fine, Ill know when I really flex it. Oil drain hole isn't too bad
05-27-2014, 07:17 PM
#55
JK Super Freak
Just installed this today. Used the rock hard instructions. Looked and fit as per the rockhard. One hole is a bit off and missing one bolt. Otherwise seems pretty good.
Attachment 551942
Attachment 551942
05-28-2014, 05:19 AM
#56
JK Freak
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Weston, FL
Posts: 667
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have been looking at these skids as well. Replacing the oil drain plug with a Fumoto valve will address the misalignment issue, also makes oil changes very clean and easy.
Robot Check
NOTE - As I was looking at their website Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™ for the part number, I noticed that all Wranglers 2007 through 2013 use the F106N 14mm-1.5. However, when I select 2014 Jeep, the Wrangler is not one of the choices. I know that the oil filter is different for the 2014, but does anyone know if the oil drain plug is different as well?
Robot Check
NOTE - As I was looking at their website Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™ for the part number, I noticed that all Wranglers 2007 through 2013 use the F106N 14mm-1.5. However, when I select 2014 Jeep, the Wrangler is not one of the choices. I know that the oil filter is different for the 2014, but does anyone know if the oil drain plug is different as well?
05-29-2014, 04:55 PM
#57
JK Super Freak
Installed my skid on my 2014 2 door this afternoon.
I think the location of the oil pan drain hole will cause a problem when you drain the oil. It's more likely the oil will shoot past the hole on to the top of the skid.
The only real issue I had was that one of the holes that are supposed to line up with the stock transfer case skid plate mounting holes was off by about 3/8".
I'm going wheeling the next three weekends, but I think I might take it off and modify it slightly.
1. I'm going to ream out the hole that is off. The picture above was taken before things were tightened down. It's not off by as much as the photo.
2. I want to weld a splash shield next to the oil drain hole.
Outside of that, the rest of it is built rather well. Sure, it ain't perfect, but for $110, it is way worth it to deal with a few small issues.
I think the location of the oil pan drain hole will cause a problem when you drain the oil. It's more likely the oil will shoot past the hole on to the top of the skid.
The only real issue I had was that one of the holes that are supposed to line up with the stock transfer case skid plate mounting holes was off by about 3/8".
I'm going wheeling the next three weekends, but I think I might take it off and modify it slightly.
1. I'm going to ream out the hole that is off. The picture above was taken before things were tightened down. It's not off by as much as the photo.
2. I want to weld a splash shield next to the oil drain hole.
Outside of that, the rest of it is built rather well. Sure, it ain't perfect, but for $110, it is way worth it to deal with a few small issues.
07-13-2014, 07:52 PM
#58
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After some hard wheeling the back of the skid plate is kinda beat up. I don't like the 4 individual spacers at the back. I'm going to come up with a more solid way to space it in the back. It did protect my Ripp exhaust which was the main reason I got the skid.
I will try to post pictures tomorrow.
Sent from my d2lte using Tapatalk
I will try to post pictures tomorrow.
Sent from my d2lte using Tapatalk
08-13-2014, 12:09 PM
#60
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i have had mine for a lil over a year now.. I got them when there pricing was just $90 and free shipping. Like others have said it doesn't come with any instructions and I used rockhards and didn't have any issues, everything lined up perfectly, I did however leave everything extremely loose till I got every bolt started. I reused my stock hardware and used there additional bolts to complete the install. However it seems they have declined in quality control and a few of my friends that have ordered them over the last few months have had fitment issues with the bolt holes lining up and major issues with one trying to install it onto a rustys longarm kit crossmember, we ended up just welding up all the predrilled holes and drilled new ones to line everything up.