The 35 spline shafts taper up at the seal . So they are the exact size of the 30 spline shafts all the until the seal surface and splines. With the trouble we have with the 35 spline seals it really isn't a great upgrade in our opinion . Stick with the 30

 

Thanks for all the input. I had a chance to look over the FAQ section on the dynatrac sight but still emailed them with a few of my own questions. They were really helpful. Seems as though, the 4 pin e locker will work in the pr44. Also, dynatrac offers some less expensive shafts that work as well. I also asked about using moog ball joints in the pr44 and was told that any ball joint that is JK specific will work. I like the idea of the Moog ball joints since they have a good warranty and most parts stores stock them in case i were to need a replacement

 

I'm running a PR44 with the new 4-pin Eaton eLocker and have no issues. It's a great option over the ARB which will also need a compressor. Gears I'm running 5.13 and RCV shafts.

 

I purchased a Dynatrac Prorock 44 package deal from Northridge and experienced some problems. I reviewed the package on Northridge's web site, but it appears they do not post reviews that are not completely positive. On my axle the spring perches were off from each other by 3.5 degrees. I ordered the raised track bar bracket as recommended by Northridge, but found that my Clayton adjustable track bar was contacting the top of the differential under flex while using the top mounting hole in the raised bracket. I replaced the Clayton bar with a Terraflex bar with an offset loop but had to use the lowest hole on the raised track bar bracket to avoid having the track bar contact the bottom of the pitman arm.

I also ordered Reid shackles and they use an inverted drag link. This corrects the angle on the drag link for proper steering geometry. I found this a good choice as were the RCV axles.

 

The perches being off is a Dynatrac issue and you should take it up with them.

Track bar issue sounds more like something with your setup and not the axle. Btw, your track bar and drag link need to be at the same angle and based on what you are saying, they are way off. You will have steering issues and will put a lot more stress on the parts that way. Suggest you get that figured out. Proper steering geometry involves drag link and track bar.

 

That is correct we don't weld the perches on . if you need assistance with this please call us.

 

The track bar I had was a Clayon adjustable that came with the 3.5 lift on the Jeep. There are only the frame and axle connections; no choice on the frame, and I used the highest hole on the Northridge raised bracket. This was not an issue with the axle, there was simply insufficient space between the bottom of the track bar and the top of the differential. The Terraflex track bar resolved the issue, but it would have done so without the Northridge raised bracket. The drag link has two connections; with the Reid knuckles it's inverted which enhances steering. I have no aberrant steering issues. What makes you think the track bar and drag link need to be at the same angle?

 

Well, I don't think it, I know it. You have two points that connect to the axle and travel on an arc. As the axle drops, it gets pulled to the driver side because of the arc the track bar travels. If they are not aligned, that means the drag link is traveling on a different arc. Track bar wins and forces movement in the drag link. Basically, it is steering when you aren't asking it to. On a smooth road, not that big of a deal. Get the suspension moving and you will have bump steer. In addition, you will have premature wear of those parts as they are constantly fighting each other.

Not to further complicate this, but from the factory, the angles are slightly different as the drag link and TB are different lengths. They were engineered to intersect at the perfect point on the arc. You don't have that luxury. In addition, there is very little angle stock - the bars are almost parallel to the ground. Therefore, there is very little movement to the side. Think of movement to the side as exponential as you get deeper into the arc. I'd guess your track bar is on a pretty steep angle.

 

Listen to the man.

Could you post some pics of your setup so we can see what you're referring to?

Fwiw, this is not the first Pro Rock we've read about that has a spring perch angle problem. Follow up with Northridge.

 

Here are some photos. I was not aware of any known issues with perch angles with Dynatrac axles. In retrospect, I think i'd have been better off with the Currie axle. If it's a known issue, I would think Northridge would check the axles for any issues prior to shipping. I did contact Dynatrac, and their solution was an offer to send me a perch so that I could cut off one and weld the replacement properly in its place. That would be at the limits of my skill level, and I declined.

You can see in the photos where I had connected the Terraflex trackbar to see where I could place it without having it contact other parts. Using the top two holes I had contact with the pitman arm nut, but in the lowest hole I have no problems. I ended up using the top hole for the steering damper. You can see where the Clayton trackbar was contacting the diff. The only issue I've notice with the setup is that if I go through a big dip in the road at highway speeds I get a rocking motion that I attribute to the offset of the front springs due to the perches.