DS Sanity Check
#11
JK Newbie
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: PC Fla
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thank you all for your advise.. it is appreciated.. i will order the rear ds and Rear adj uppers next week and then keep the front anti swaybars connected up front so as not to flex so much.. ill need to run about 4 months like this until I can get the front ds on order..
thanks again
thanks again
#12
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
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Yes, I have a 4door. And yes, the rear shaft is fine with 4 inches of lift. I was not comparing my rear shaft to a 2door rear shaft.
I stated that I lost the front joint. The boot you were referring to, the one covering the slip joint, was fine. The driveshaft was contacting the skid, which is just some minor gouging below the boot, not a big deal. But, due to the steeper angles, I lost the joint at the tcase. Again, the big boot that you were referring to was undamaged. Even disconnected and fully flexed, the regular OME shocks were not giving enough droop for driveshaft/tranny contact. The rzeppa at the tcase failed. It was pinched from the angles, spit grease, and started getting noisy. Hence, the entire shaft was replaced.
And yes, I realize that losing a front shaft is only an inconvenience, as you can pull it and drive just fine. I also realize that the rear shaft on a 2door may be more likely to fail first. But that does NOT mean that it will, 100% of the time, fail before the front. As I said, there are posts on this very site saying that 2door fronts have failed with the rear having no issues (yet). If you want to continue making blanket statements that 2doors will, with absolute certainty, lose the rear shaft first, go for it.
I stated that I lost the front joint. The boot you were referring to, the one covering the slip joint, was fine. The driveshaft was contacting the skid, which is just some minor gouging below the boot, not a big deal. But, due to the steeper angles, I lost the joint at the tcase. Again, the big boot that you were referring to was undamaged. Even disconnected and fully flexed, the regular OME shocks were not giving enough droop for driveshaft/tranny contact. The rzeppa at the tcase failed. It was pinched from the angles, spit grease, and started getting noisy. Hence, the entire shaft was replaced.
And yes, I realize that losing a front shaft is only an inconvenience, as you can pull it and drive just fine. I also realize that the rear shaft on a 2door may be more likely to fail first. But that does NOT mean that it will, 100% of the time, fail before the front. As I said, there are posts on this very site saying that 2door fronts have failed with the rear having no issues (yet). If you want to continue making blanket statements that 2doors will, with absolute certainty, lose the rear shaft first, go for it.
#13
Yes, I have a 4door. And yes, the rear shaft is fine with 4 inches of lift. I was not comparing my rear shaft to a 2door rear shaft.
I stated that I lost the front joint. The boot you were referring to, the one covering the slip joint, was fine. The driveshaft was contacting the skid, which is just some minor gouging below the boot, not a big deal. But, due to the steeper angles, I lost the joint at the tcase. Again, the big boot that you were referring to was undamaged. Even disconnected and fully flexed, the regular OME shocks were not giving enough droop for driveshaft/tranny contact. The rzeppa at the tcase failed. It was pinched from the angles, spit grease, and started getting noisy. Hence, the entire shaft was replaced.
And yes, I realize that losing a front shaft is only an inconvenience, as you can pull it and drive just fine. I also realize that the rear shaft on a 2door may be more likely to fail first. But that does NOT mean that it will, 100% of the time, fail before the front. As I said, there are posts on this very site saying that 2door fronts have failed with the rear having no issues (yet). If you want to continue making blanket statements that 2doors will, with absolute certainty, lose the rear shaft first, go for it.
I stated that I lost the front joint. The boot you were referring to, the one covering the slip joint, was fine. The driveshaft was contacting the skid, which is just some minor gouging below the boot, not a big deal. But, due to the steeper angles, I lost the joint at the tcase. Again, the big boot that you were referring to was undamaged. Even disconnected and fully flexed, the regular OME shocks were not giving enough droop for driveshaft/tranny contact. The rzeppa at the tcase failed. It was pinched from the angles, spit grease, and started getting noisy. Hence, the entire shaft was replaced.
And yes, I realize that losing a front shaft is only an inconvenience, as you can pull it and drive just fine. I also realize that the rear shaft on a 2door may be more likely to fail first. But that does NOT mean that it will, 100% of the time, fail before the front. As I said, there are posts on this very site saying that 2door fronts have failed with the rear having no issues (yet). If you want to continue making blanket statements that 2doors will, with absolute certainty, lose the rear shaft first, go for it.
"Common" sense.
#14
JK-Forum Founder
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Laguna Niguel, CA
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I stated that I lost the front joint. The boot you were referring to, the one covering the slip joint, was fine. The driveshaft was contacting the skid, which is just some minor gouging below the boot, not a big deal. But, due to the steeper angles, I lost the joint at the tcase. Again, the big boot that you were referring to was undamaged. Even disconnected and fully flexed, the regular OME shocks were not giving enough droop for driveshaft/tranny contact. The rzeppa at the tcase failed. It was pinched from the angles, spit grease, and started getting noisy. Hence, the entire shaft was replaced.
And yes, I realize that losing a front shaft is only an inconvenience, as you can pull it and drive just fine. I also realize that the rear shaft on a 2door may be more likely to fail first. But that does NOT mean that it will, 100% of the time, fail before the front. As I said, there are posts on this very site saying that 2door fronts have failed with the rear having no issues (yet). If you want to continue making blanket statements that 2doors will, with absolute certainty, lose the rear shaft first, go for it.
#15
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
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So we're talking about catastrophic failure on the trail now? Or replacing the rear + the upper arms when the rear shaft ain't broke, having no money to replace the front, and not going on the trails because you only have 2wd?
If you are on a tight budget, why replace it if it isn't broken? Wait, watch the joints, and replace if/when needed. It could be that you lose the front first.
Common sense...
If you are on a tight budget, why replace it if it isn't broken? Wait, watch the joints, and replace if/when needed. It could be that you lose the front first.
Common sense...
#16
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Location: Laguna Niguel, CA
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With all of that being said, what would you rather drive home on? A front axle or a rear axle? Replace the rear shaft, and you will be stoked that you can still drive highway speeds home when the front shits out. Replace the front, and you will be driving 15 mph in 4-lo to your house when the rear goes.
"Common" sense.
"Common" sense.
#17
JK-Forum Founder
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Laguna Niguel, CA
Posts: 36,534
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So we're talking about catastrophic failure on the trail now? Or replacing the rear + the upper arms when the rear shaft ain't broke, having no money to replace the front, and not going on the trails because you only have 2wd?
If you are on a tight budget, why replace it if it isn't broken? Wait, watch the joints, and replace if/when needed. It could be that you lose the front first.
Common sense...
If you are on a tight budget, why replace it if it isn't broken? Wait, watch the joints, and replace if/when needed. It could be that you lose the front first.
Common sense...