So, I'm very pissed off right now Just got home from the dealership to get my front driveshaft replaced for the second time. The service manager wasn't working today and the guys there wouldn't approve the warranty replacement. The kicker is that the dealership I bought it from, who also did the lift, tire/wheel install has already replaced it once. The unfortunate part is that dealership lost it's franchise with Chrysler and can no longer perform factory warranty work. I now have to wait until Monday to call the service manager of this other dealership to see what he says. He is the same guy that gave my dad the okay on his Rubicon with 3.5" RE super-flex kit and 35's.

Anyways, the first one I had replaced because I had just torn the boot, so it wasn't a huge deal but needed replacing nonetheless. However, the one that's on there now has a ripped off boot and then I came to find out that the rear joint of the front shaft is also torn and spewing grease all over the underside.

I wasn't in a huge hurry while thinking it was only the boot that was ripped off, but now that I know the rear joint is ripped I'm wondering if I should remove the entire shaft until I get the new one on there. I won't be doing any four-wheeling until I get this replaced, but I want to know if I'm running too big a risk road-driving while that rear joint is torn and losing grease. The road driving I do takes me anywhere from 40-70 mph.

Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated.

I know the question will come up, so yes I plan on replacing the front with an aftermarket shaft, but I just don't have the $450 to do it right now. Besides, I'd still like to have the replaced factory shaft as a spare in emergencies.

 

No one....nothing?????

 

Just unbolt the front driveshaft from its flanges and run without it until a solution is found. I had to do the same thing while waiting for mine to be rebalanced.

 

Thank you for the response. That's what I'll do. Looks like we've got very similar suspension, tire, wheel set up. I love it!

How do you like your Reel driveshafts?

 

The boot is torn because the lift lowers the pinion flange and steepens the angle of the DS. That's self evident. This steeper DS will, from time to time, contact the skid plate underneath right where the boot is.

I don't know why you're pissed, nearly everyone who has a 3+ lift has the same experience and either A. live with it as it's not gonna blow, or B. get a new aftermarket DS, that's smaller in diameter and less likely to contact the skid.

 

actually, the skid is only one point where the boot makes contact. if you have a lot of droop, it will also make contact with the auto tranny pan lip when flexing. as RCJeeper said, i'm not sure why your pissed as this is a common problem and i'd be surprised if your dealership warranteed it at all. as mentioned, your best option for now is to live with it (no big deal) or get a new aftermarket DS.

 

Alright....maybe I should have just asked the question, which was the main reason for the thread...I just wanted to make sure there was no issues with driving without the front shaft installed.

- I know this is a common problem as I've already had it replaced once through warranty...as previously stated. The dealership is who installed my lift.

- The skid plate did not tear the boot because I took that off months ago...it is being torn by the oil pan lip when I'm at full droop with the sway bar disconnected, as wayoflife said (this is the same thing that tore my dad's).

So, the reason I'm pissed is that I know that warranty does cover this...I know this from personal experience as well as other locals that have had the same issue and their dealerships have replaced the shaft without a problem. And, the most annoying part is that the same dealership I went to today is the same one that replaced my Dad's with the same boot tear.

I will be getting a new aftermarket shaft when the funds are available, but I've had many people tell me that it's not a real big deal to drive on them with the slip boot torn, but there could be potential major problems driving with the rear joint torn and leaking out all of the grease.

So, I appreciate anyone's advice on whether or not it's a risk to drive with the joint torn and leaking grease and/or to drive without the front shaft installed temporarily.

Thank you all and I just wanted to make sure I wasn't taking any unnecessary risks with my daily driver/toy.

 

I live here in Parker, the dealership here was closed. I called the dealership on broadway and they told me if you have changed anything on the Jeep it is not under warranty any longer.
I then called around and found a dealership who said if you caused the failure then it will not be covered, but otherwise it will. Call around and talk to them before you need them.

 

If it makes you fell any better my dealership would not replace mine. The boot came off and they said it is hitting the trans/pan and it is because I have a lift.

So no warranty at all on drive shafts from my dealersh*t!

 

Ditch that POS stock shaft untill you can get a JE Reel or Tom Woods shaft.
Do not drive it with the CV joint leaking.

I've got the JE Reel 1310HD/yokes front and 1350 flange/yoke rear and couldn't be happier. And in my case, they are smoother than the stock shafts. And don't get an aftermarket one that bolts up to the stock flanges, which are sometimes the source of vibrations in the stock setup, as in my case.
For example, a buddy tore the boot on his front shaft on his Unlimited. It was fine for a while then started making all kinds of noise. Since I have a stock front shaft with verty few miles on it, we swapped it in. The noise was gone but he got this front end buzz and vibration. We used his flanges with my shaft and it is now smooth as silk. In other words, one of my flanges sucked.