Driveshaft clarification...help!!!
#21
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^^^^^^^^^I agree^^^^^^^^^^
I'm running Adams Driveshafts and even when I move up to 37s I'm confident that my DSs will hold up. Eitherway you will want a front DS for your lift height for sure.
I'm running Adams Driveshafts and even when I move up to 37s I'm confident that my DSs will hold up. Eitherway you will want a front DS for your lift height for sure.
#22
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Go with the yoke. Less chance of vibrations, joint closer to pinion (less weak point), and if you need a replacement you can get one local instead of waiting for an adapter flange setup that is specific to that shaft. I recommend you look at the Tereflex shafts. The have a great ubolt setup that makes it easy to install/remove. They sell this as an upgrade for non Teteflex shafts but comes with theirs standard. Easy installation because everything is clearly marked to install exactly the way it was balanced leaving you vibe free.
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#23
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I'm looking for unbiased information. If I call Adams and ask what's the best d/s to buy what do you think they're going to tell me....a Coast unit? Looks like best I'm going to be able to do is call northridge or maybe morris and ask them, they don't have as much bias as an actual manufacturer....I just ASSUMED there were knowledgeable people on here that could shed some light on the subject...guess not. Oh well, I tried.
For a 4-dr, replace the front DS. Replacing the rear DS is a recommended option.
For a 2-dr, replace the rear DS. Replacing the front DS is a recommended option.
If your offroading is mild, replace one DS.
If your offroading is hard, replace both.
This is not something that can be clearly defined or quantified, because, among
other things, whether you break something or not, also depends on your personal
offroad driving style and skill.
1310 or 1350 ?
This, too, depends on the use. For roads and light offroading, 1310.
For tougher offroading, I'd suggest the 1350.
Yoke.
For the 285 BHP Pentastar 4-dr Rubi, 35" tires, daily driver + some tough offroading
(except for the most extreme), I replaced the front DS with the JE Reel 1350.
In spite of what I said before, I'll replace the rear DS only if a problem starts showing up. That's because I tend to ease the Jeep into doing things whenever possible (and usually it's possible), rather than storm an obstacle. I also rarely use the lockers.
So, you see, drive shaft replacement can be - and is - partly based on facts and partly a subjective decision.
Last edited by GJeep; 02-21-2013 at 11:09 PM.
#24
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I'm looking for unbiased information. If I call Adams and ask what's the best d/s to buy what do you think they're going to tell me....a Coast unit? Looks like best I'm going to be able to do is call northridge or maybe morris and ask them, they don't have as much bias as an actual manufacturer....I just ASSUMED there were knowledgeable people on here that could shed some light on the subject...guess not. Oh well, I tried.
You might want to try listening to the good advice being given rather than going around insulting the very people who are trying to help. I doubt that bitchy little attitude is going to get you anywhere.
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Call Adams, Tatton, Tom Woods and you should have all the answers you need. These are the people making the products. Vendors are far from unbiased, they always make more of a margin on some products over others, some brands they don't carry etc.
You might want to try listening to the good advice being given rather than going around insulting the very people who are trying to help. I doubt that bitchy little attitude is going to get you anywhere.
You might want to try listening to the good advice being given rather than going around insulting the very people who are trying to help. I doubt that bitchy little attitude is going to get you anywhere.