Driveshaft clarification...help!!!
#1
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Driveshaft clarification...help!!!
I've searched and searched and still not clear on what d/s to go with. I'm installing my 4" TeraFlex full flexarm kit next week and will have 37's the following week or so. So do I want one with replacement yokes, flange adapters, or a mix of both? Which shafts come with yokes, or flanges (Coast, Tom Woods, Adams..etc)? I'm guessing I want one with Spicer or Neapco joints, right? From what I've gathered you want to try to stay away from the flange type because it doesn't give you as much length thus increasing the angle of operation...or does it matter at all? Since I'll be running such a heavy tire/wheel combo should I run 1310 or 1350 shafts? It seems like the only ones I've seen f/s with flange type are the Tom Woods, it's hard to tell because nobody really specifies. I thought Adam's d/s's replaced both yokes (at the t-case and the pinion) but I just stumbled across a thread on here that said it only replaced the yoke on t-case. Now I'm really confused. If someone could shed some light on who offers what and what I need that'd be great...thanks.
#2
I've searched and searched and still not clear on what d/s to go with. I'm installing my 4" TeraFlex full flexarm kit next week and will have 37's the following week or so. So do I want one with replacement yokes, flange adapters, or a mix of both? Which shafts come with yokes, or flanges (Coast, Tom Woods, Adams..etc)? I'm guessing I want one with Spicer or Neapco joints, right? From what I've gathered you want to try to stay away from the flange type because it doesn't give you as much length thus increasing the angle of operation...or does it matter at all? Since I'll be running such a heavy tire/wheel combo should I run 1310 or 1350 shafts? It seems like the only ones I've seen f/s with flange type are the Tom Woods, it's hard to tell because nobody really specifies. I thought Adam's d/s's replaced both yokes (at the t-case and the pinion) but I just stumbled across a thread on here that said it only replaced the yoke on t-case. Now I'm really confused. If someone could shed some light on who offers what and what I need that'd be great...thanks.
#4
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I need the same questions answered. I am running 37's and need to replace my drive shaft. Stock is a 1330 I’ve read that I should be fine with a 1310 but I have a hard time going down from 1330 to 1310. It only makes since to me to go up to the 1350 but I could save money for more mods if I go with the 1310.
What should I get?
What should I get?
#5
I am still running stock front and rear and from what I gather if you wheel at all or run bigger than a 35" tire the 1350 is the way to go. Many run the 1310 but it isn't recommended by any of the Driveline manufacturers. I would definitely call Dave at Northridge, he sold me my PR44 housing and is great at taking care of us JK guys.
#6
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I have 35s and used adams driveshafts 1310s. I don't wheel to hard but also if I'm gonna break something the u-joint is easier to change on the trail than a axle shaft or ring and pinion remember pick where your weak link is .
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#8
Amen. All 1350s do is make you ring and pinion the weak point. What do you want to fix? A broken u joint or a grenaded differential?? 1310 is the way to go for the vast majority of jk owners.
#9
i'd go with 1310's with u joints... not the cv version. So yes you will have to replace the output on both the transfer case and axle.
I have a coast front driveshaft and I had to replace the output flang on both the diff and trasnfer case
I have a coast front driveshaft and I had to replace the output flang on both the diff and trasnfer case
Last edited by hypeiv; 02-19-2013 at 07:21 AM.