kflash

I have been ordering all parts to fully complete my 3" lift over a long weekend. I am ready to order driveshafts and am really not interested in causing myself problems with over torquing the crush sleeves at the differentials. I have no issue with my ability to complete the install per instructions posted here, it just seems that others have done the same and had leaks.

Can those that went with the OME 1310 versions that bolt right up weigh in on their reliability? I won't see much off road and really just want to know they will cure the angle problem and hold up over time.

Thanks!

wayoflife

you should be fine with it and for whatever it's worth, the factory flanges are stronger than 1310 yokes.

kflash

Thanks Wayoflife. Sorry for being persistant! Just hard to decide when there are so many choices. You should see me sitting in the garage staring at my Fatboy - one option after another!

98tjjeep

I went out last weekend with a bunch oh JK’s some guy had just installed tom woods replacement drive lines said he did it the night before not sure what he did, but with in an hour he lost the rear ring and pinion, so that made up my mind I ordered the stock replacements, all I hear is good things we will see.

jeepsanddrums

I had my JE Reel 1310 HD's installed a day before I left for the Rubicon a few weeks ago. I was worried about having problems as well.....especially since I did not install them myself do to lack of time. About half way into the trail I forgot all about them and had no problems.

edwin907

I'm very interested in feedback on the COAST 1310/1350 2" front and the 1350 3" rear that bolt to the original flanges.
If these don't pan out I'll go for a set of 1350 front and rear from Woods or Reel with replacement flanges/yokes for my 2 door.

wayoflife

i've run a set of coast 1350's on my JK and still run the front now. the spacers make it super easy to install but you do need to be aware that if you have a 6-speed, you will need to have a 1" body lift in order to clear the t-case shifter cable bracket and even at that, some minor grinding of the bracket may be required. in the rear, the u-join is quite large so it and the spacer on the pinion will make contact with your gas tank skid plate when flexing. no big deal but it is something that i think you should be aware of.

edwin907

Well certainly no plans to install a body lift, so I''ll be ordering a set of J.E. Reel 1350 driveshafts from David at Northridge.
I planning on using these with a Rock Hard skid plate system on my 6-speed 2 door Rubicon, and since you seem to have considerable experience with driveshafts, any potential pit falls that you might see with this plan?
I'm using FT control arms and trackbars with an OME HD lift with 3/4" spacer up front and 10mm spacer in the rear with heavy bumpers/winch/spare and about 40.5 to 40.75" fender lip to pavement height running 35" Toyos.

My first choice was a set of Reel 1310 HD driveshafts, but I might actually put the RIPP supercharger and a RR snorkel on this Jeep so I might as well spring for the 1350s.