Drive shaft upgrade options
#12
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Great pic, thanks. The place I normally get my stuff has a J.e. Reel, not sure of the quality? This might be offensive to some but aren't they all pretty much the same? What is the difference between the 1310 or 1350, length, diameter, composition?
Should I do the rear before the front?
Should I do the rear before the front?
#13
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Great pic, thanks. The place I normally get my stuff has a J.e. Reel, not sure of the quality? This might be offensive to some but aren't they all pretty much the same? What is the difference between the 1310 or 1350, length, diameter, composition?
Should I do the rear before the front?
Should I do the rear before the front?
Two-Doors need to do the rear DS before the front because it's so short the CV joint gets chewed up.
If you have a manual transmission you shouldn't have to worry about the front. I have a 4" lift and just went with the rear.
Hard to tell in my pics but you will need to rotate your axle for a new DS ... and I installed new JKS spring perches to keep my springs for arching.
Most of the manufacturers use the same name brand components.
#15
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The place I normally get my stuff has a J.e. Reel, not sure of the quality? This might be offensive to some but aren't they all pretty much the same? What is the difference between the 1310 or 1350, length, diameter, composition?
What I would suggest is that you go out to Tom Woods website (even if you choose another brand) and look around. He goes over the differences between yokes and flanges, 1310 vs 1350, how to measure for the new shaft, driveline angles, etc. Look in the JK area, and also in the Tech Info area up top.
Should I do the rear before the front?
In general:
Auto's have more problems with the front shaft than manuals.
2doors have more problems with the rear shaft than 4doors
Other factors to consider:
Total lift height. How long has the lift been on. Are the axles centered or offset. Standard length shocks, or longer travel. Mostly street, some light trails, or max flex on a regular basis. Do you disconnect. etc...
As noted above, a set of adj ca's is needed for each new shaft so you can adjust the pinion angles. Assuming both shafts are still in good shape, it'll be a toss-up on which to replace first. Lifted 2door, so the short rear shaft is at pretty steep angles. Automatic, so that front shaft will contact the corner of the tranny when flexed.
Flip a coin...
(or do the rear, and just pull the front off until you can replace it)
Last edited by nthinuf; 01-10-2011 at 04:38 PM.
#16
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I looked the other day and both axels look fine (perhaps I am a puppy driver still?) No grease, no rips.
So I have a 2dr Auto, double whammy!!
I want to get crazy and climb everything but I also have to get to work so I am careful . . . oh, and maybe afraid
I have yet to disconnect but this spring I hope to have everything set to venture out and test some limits . . .
So I have a 2dr Auto, double whammy!!
I want to get crazy and climb everything but I also have to get to work so I am careful . . . oh, and maybe afraid
I have yet to disconnect but this spring I hope to have everything set to venture out and test some limits . . .
#18
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I looked the other day and both axels look fine (perhaps I am a puppy driver still?) No grease, no rips.
So I have a 2dr Auto, double whammy!!
I want to get crazy and climb everything but I also have to get to work so I am careful . . . oh, and maybe afraid
I have yet to disconnect but this spring I hope to have everything set to venture out and test some limits . . .
So I have a 2dr Auto, double whammy!!
I want to get crazy and climb everything but I also have to get to work so I am careful . . . oh, and maybe afraid
I have yet to disconnect but this spring I hope to have everything set to venture out and test some limits . . .
Your first front disconnect at full flex is what will tear your front DS boot depending on your shocks and springs. Pretty sure there is something you can trim to prevent it ... just do a search.
And as stated above ... when you replace your driveshafts you have to rotate your axle using adjustable control arms ... so the expense is more than just the DS.
#19
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I looked the other day and both axels look fine (perhaps I am a puppy driver still?) No grease, no rips.
So I have a 2dr Auto, double whammy!!
I want to get crazy and climb everything but I also have to get to work so I am careful . . . oh, and maybe afraid
I have yet to disconnect but this spring I hope to have everything set to venture out and test some limits . . .
So I have a 2dr Auto, double whammy!!
I want to get crazy and climb everything but I also have to get to work so I am careful . . . oh, and maybe afraid
I have yet to disconnect but this spring I hope to have everything set to venture out and test some limits . . .
When you lift, the front axle is shifted toward the drivers side (which takes the shaft further away from the tranny). So re-centering the front axle will move the driveshaft back 'toward' the tranny...
Disconnecting let's the axle drop further, which brings that front driveshaft closer to the skid and the corner of the tranny.
Sooo, centered and disconnected means you need to flex in a controlled area after the lift and get out and actually look at the clearances. Be sure to do this before you get out in the boonies.