drive shaft and tranny pan contact?
11-26-2010, 08:05 AM
#21
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after looking at it again i could go to the drivers side a the most a 1/2 inch and still clear the speed bumps with my coils but i have no adjustment left to shorten it (and pull it over to the driver side). if you look in the pictures you can see my speed bump is perfectly centered on the puck. the jks track bar is as short as it will go and ended up at exactly stock length track bars.
11-26-2010, 08:14 AM
#22
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My bad, I was on the iPhone app and couldn't see your sig for your mods. How many inches did you gain with the OME +40 lift? You may not need the high steer kit and TB brackets??? Is it possible that if you aren't high enough they are creating some geometry issues at full flex? Just a thought?
Were you having these issues before putting on the high steer and TB brackets or did you do it all at the time you put the lift on?
I would just try working backwards to when you first noticed the problem and see what changes you made right before it all started. If you made several changes at once it might be a little tougher, but from what I've read, if you didn't gain over 4" of lift I would start with the high steer and TB brackets.
***EDIT***
I somehow missed your post above about hitting before the brackets. I see that you have already answered some of my questions. Hmmm???
Were you having these issues before putting on the high steer and TB brackets or did you do it all at the time you put the lift on?
I would just try working backwards to when you first noticed the problem and see what changes you made right before it all started. If you made several changes at once it might be a little tougher, but from what I've read, if you didn't gain over 4" of lift I would start with the high steer and TB brackets.
***EDIT***
I somehow missed your post above about hitting before the brackets. I see that you have already answered some of my questions. Hmmm???
even if it is not centered correctly i still have no more travel left in the track bar to shorten it and pull it to the driver side.
i think i may take off the track bar and see how long the threads are on the female side. if they are long enough i may chop off a 1/2 in and rethread it in and see what that does. i just hate to go hacking away at my track bar and screw it up. i think the half a inch over to driver side will fix the contact problem but no way to know for sure until i cut it and i preffer not to cut it till i figure out the problem.
11-26-2010, 08:18 AM
#23
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yes it would. but i am too far to the passanger side. i will fix this by adding length to my track bar or moving the holes it mounts in just enough to clear the skid and still hit my bumpstops. i am really concerened about the front and just used the back as a refference for help in the front and to co inside with my theory of the motor trans and transfercase being mounted to far to the driver side. i just need to fix the front issue of contacting the tranny. thanks for the help
Last edited by codysanders; 11-26-2010 at 08:30 AM.
11-26-2010, 09:05 AM
#24
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i did not take off the c gussets. i cut off the wrap around the axle portion of the aev brakets and welded them directly to the c gussets. as long as my bolt holes lined up with the factory bracket (wich they did) it should be same as it was if i didn't weld it. thanks
07-11-2013, 09:56 PM
#26
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i thought the same thing on the aev but they said over 3.5 inches and i would be good. i got about 3 inches with the hd and then i gained 3 inches with the +40's. i feel i lost about a 1/2 after settle on the hd but never really measured. after a wheeling trip i lost a 1/2 in due to settle in the +40 coils i measured before and after on these. i belive i am at no more than 5 inches up front and no less then 4.5 of actuall lift. if i did not have this problem before i would blame the aev kit but i did.
even if it is not centered correctly i still have no more travel left in the track bar to shorten it and pull it to the driver side.
i think i may take off the track bar and see how long the threads are on the female side. if they are long enough i may chop off a 1/2 in and rethread it in and see what that does. i just hate to go hacking away at my track bar and screw it up. i think the half a inch over to driver side will fix the contact problem but no way to know for sure until i cut it and i preffer not to cut it till i figure out the problem.
even if it is not centered correctly i still have no more travel left in the track bar to shorten it and pull it to the driver side.
i think i may take off the track bar and see how long the threads are on the female side. if they are long enough i may chop off a 1/2 in and rethread it in and see what that does. i just hate to go hacking away at my track bar and screw it up. i think the half a inch over to driver side will fix the contact problem but no way to know for sure until i cut it and i preffer not to cut it till i figure out the problem.
12-08-2013, 09:29 AM
#27
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I have the Coast Drive Shafts Front and Rear, 3" Teraflex Lift, Poly Performance Synergy 1ton Steering with manual disconnects, 35" KM2 and my front drive shaft hits the transmission bolt on the drivers side to the point it is slowly grinding down but not leaking. It also hits the factory transmission skid in 3 spots where all the skids overlap. I have my front pro rock 44 centered and aligned properly. This is a 2009 Jeep JK 4dr, auto, by the way.
I have always believed in what planman has said. So in order for me to fix this I need to adjust my front and rear trackbars longer or shorter to push the diff towards the driverside? How much, maybe a turn or 2 on the jam nuts? I have room to correct mine unlike you, the JKS bars didnt work for me. I have a Tera rear and Poly front.
I have always believed in what planman has said. So in order for me to fix this I need to adjust my front and rear trackbars longer or shorter to push the diff towards the driverside? How much, maybe a turn or 2 on the jam nuts? I have room to correct mine unlike you, the JKS bars didnt work for me. I have a Tera rear and Poly front.