Using a star lock washer worked pretty well for me. Used multiple washers up top too to let it slide better where needed. Thankfully all of them went in with a few curse words, wrenches and an extra hand.
It's certainly easier if someone holds down the bottom nut while you use both hands to keep the bolt steady.

 

Like Rebar-7, I too bought the Astro Pneumatic 1442 tool. It came with a few nutserts of each size. I also bought a bunch of inserts from a different source. One thing I looked for in the inserts themselves was the knurled biting edges under the lip of the insert.



The first photo shows an insert with smooth flange or lip. It does have some knurling on the body of the piece but I don't know how well that will "bite" when it is pulled down tight.

The second photo shows the kind of inserts I bought. They have knurling on the lip which I hope will hold tighter than the ones in photo one.

The third photo shows another kind of insert with a very small lip or flange. These are supposed to create an almost flush finish when tightened. The insert should only barely protrude above the surface of the sheet metal. I haven't tried them.

My biggest concern is that the inserts will rotate either when tightening a bolt into them or when trying to loosen a "stuck" bolt later.

Oh, I bought my tool from ToolTopia.com and it was $71 including shipping. I just saw some on Google running from $60+ something to over $300. Same tool kit. I bought mine for an upcoming project with an off-road trailer so I haven't had an opportunity to use it for real yet. There are fancy hydraulic and electric models that are used in factories. They cost a lot more - like over $1000.

One more thing. I chose steel inserts over aluminum ones. I just think the steel will be stronger and hold better.

 

You know what? I didn't even think about that. That is probably a very big factor in whether they'll spin or bite sufficiently, other than having a meticulous nature about your installation procedures. I believe the ones that came with the PSC body armor are like the first photo, knurling/jimping on the body, but not the underside of the lip. I might try to replace them with some of that other style, if I can find some locally. I'm sure having that style will increase the chances of not having spinning problems with any of them by the time you're finished.

 

I think I'll pick up one of those washers before I begin

 

I have been using nutserts/RIVNUT's since the 80's. They are fabulous. HOWEVER, you have to have the right tools. All of these devices work on the same basic principle where they expand in the hole to grip the panel you are installing them in. If you don't have the right tool, it will not grip properly and you will be up a creek.

RIVNUT has a wide variety of tools to "properly" install the nuts. Here is a link to the list of tools. Blind Fasteners, Rivet Nut Installation | Menomonee Falls, WI The least cost tool, the C845, does as good of a job of installation as does the most expensive tool. The only difference is that you would want an automatic air tool if you have hundreds of nuts to insert. Since you probably don't have that many to install, the low cost tool is good enough.

I use RIVNUT's on everything. Usually I have several bags of different sizes on hand so that when I need one I have it. Often Jeep parts vendors send us nutserts that are not of very good quality and expect us to install them with a bolt and a nut. That never works, especially, because the nutserts are the cheapest piece of Chinese crap that they can find. We all know the difference between good quality parts and Chinese crap. If you put a bit of effort into getting good tools you will be better off, now and in the future, when you need them again.

Here is some general information:My Jeep uses rivnuts everywhere. Here is a list.

Finally I want to show that if you have an assortment of RIVNUT's you will get a lot of use out of them. Often I have been in a situation where it was just going to be a pain in the butt to get a nut on the back of a bolt, so instead I used a RIVNUT and made the whole situation easier. I use this set of RIVNUTS more often than my tap and dies, more often than my air hammer, more often than a pipe bender, more than a bearing puller, a pickle fork, a hole punch... Yet almost all of those tools cost more then the RIVNUT install tool.



Photo above, left to right.
10-32, Zinc coated Steel, Knurled, panel thickness = .062"
1/4"-20, Stainless Steel, panel thickness = 1/8"
1/4"-20, Zinc coated Steel, Knurled, panel thickness = 1/8"
M8, Zinc coated Steel, Knurled, panel thickness = .062"
3/8"-16, Zinc coated Steel, Knurled, panel thickness = 1/8"
1/2"-13, Zinc coated Steel, panel thickness = 1/4"
3 different size tools.

UPDATE:
If you have to remove a nutsert, I have found that you can do it one of two ways.

If there is no bolt stuck in the nutsert:
Use a drill that is the same size as the hole that you originally put the nutsert in. Drill the open end of the nutsert until the outer ring of the head comes off. Don't redrill all the way through the panel, just cut enough material off until the outer head/flange is removed. You may need to hold the insert from the back to keep it from spinning. Once the outer edge is removed, tap the nutsert through to the back of the panel.

If there is a bolt stuck in the nutsert, if it is spinning, or if you cant get to the backside to hold it from spinning:
Use a grinder with a cutoff wheel. All you need to do is grind off the flange on the outside of the panel so that you can tap the insert through the panel. Be very careful not to grind into the panel or you will make the metal too thin to hold a replacement nutsert.

 

Interesting, what about drill bit selection? Which is better , step bits or conventional straight shank bits.....

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Either one works fine, however you want to make sure that the hole is deburred and that it is not too large. The insert should be snug in the hole without any slop. When you deburr the hole, try to do both sides. If there is a big burr on the hole, then the insert has difficulty biting into the metal itself.

Just make sure the hole is not too big. Step bits don't offer the same diameters that you get in conventional drills. Maybe you could use the step bit just up to one hole size too small then use the exact right size conventional bit.

Also, it is a good idea to hit the nutsert with a bit of paint after the install. This will keep rust from forming between the insert and the panel. If it rusts, it will probably spin when you try to back the bolt out. If you cant get to the back side with paint, then paint the hole before you install the nutsert.

 

When in doubt, tack weld the nutserts in place.

 

Hey thanks for the mention. First time installing nutserts and that tool worked fantastic. Just make sure you set the travel right so its crimped in one pull.

Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 13" Nut/Thread Hand Riveter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW..._09PiwbWTGEH07
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW..._09PiwbWTGEH07

 

Some samples for your viewing pleasure.

Here is an example where the material is too thin where the nutsert is installed. The crimp was not able to grab onto the panel. The nutsert will spin.


This example shows a nutsert in a panel that is too thick. The nutsert could not properly expand because the mushroom could not form outside the hole. This nutsert may pull out of the panel.


This shows where a nutsert is installed in a hole that is not deburred. The nutsert did not install all the way and is not gripping the panel properly. This one will spin.


This is just right.