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Drag Link & Tie Rod Upgrade

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Old 10-28-2012, 07:30 PM
  #21  
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Thanks for your comments. The benefit of your experience helps navigate through all of variables and choices.
Old 10-28-2012, 10:38 PM
  #22  
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I have the Synergy tie rod. Love it so far!

I bent the OEM tie rod pretty bad.
Old 10-29-2012, 11:09 AM
  #23  
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Took a first hit yesterday at the Synergy tie rod from a boulder at a fast walking pace. Did not bend at all
Old 06-13-2013, 05:49 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jjim7
Thanks for your comments Guys. Talked to EVO this morning their Drag Link won't work with a 2" lift. They also recommend sticking with the stock units. My stock units are bent and I am weary of replacing with OEM. There is another thread about Rock Krawler Drag Link/Tie Rod End Failure. It has happened to more than one member and apparently it happens often. Allot of members swear by them and attribute the failures to poor owner user maintenance but it could also be a quality control issue. Without a proper thread pitch and depth micrometer measurement we are just guessing. Is anyone running the Synergy drag link and tie rod units without wheel adapters on stock Rubicon Moab wheels? Synergy says they require a 4 3/4" backspace and won't work with stock wheels without wheel adapters. Thanks again for your comments.
You wouldn't happen to have a link to RK drag link/tre failure would ya? I've been searching all morning and nothing. On my 3rd TRE now
Old 06-13-2013, 06:26 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jvandy50

You wouldn't happen to have a link to RK drag link/tre failure would ya? I've been searching all morning and nothing. On my 3rd TRE now
I went with a Rubicon Express Drag link. Cant beat it at $200.
Then ordered a beefy Tie Rod from RuffStuff for $150. It has offset GM 1 ton TRE and 1.5" DOM tubing. Makes for easy Toe In adjustments and if you bend or break it then you're doing it wrong. Lol

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Old 06-13-2013, 07:17 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BlueBeast
I went with a Rubicon Express Drag link. Cant beat it at $200.
Then ordered a beefy Tie Rod from RuffStuff for $150. It has offset GM 1 ton TRE and 1.5" DOM tubing. Makes for easy Toe In adjustments and if you bend or break it then you're doing it wrong. Lol

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If I could weld I'd already have the ruff stuff tie rod, still rolling oem though. My RK drag link is not that old and I keep fubar'ing the TRE at the pitman somehow
Old 06-13-2013, 08:15 AM
  #27  
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I built my drag link for about 60 bucks. Solid as hell and cheap to replace any part should it somehow wear out.
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Old 06-29-2013, 01:23 PM
  #28  
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I'd avoid the currie currectlync. I've had it for a year with nothing but problems. The boots have all failed multiple times. The large nuts on the tie rod are always working themselves loose and causing alignment issues. It's solid, but it can't stay together. Here's a couple of photos and videos if issues I'm having. If anyone has recommendations on what to do for any of this, besides buy something else, let me know.

Drag Link at Wheel
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Drag link at Pitman Arm
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Video of the clunking because of the crap joints.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXLdT6f0VzE&feature=youtu.be
Old 06-29-2013, 02:11 PM
  #29  
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While I know this isn't for everyone, it is a good option for those with the means to replicate it.

One Ton Steering Linkage
Old 06-29-2013, 03:09 PM
  #30  
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I would concur with the currylink. The things flop around and are messy at the tre's I swaped mine out for a ruff stuff tie rod and synergy drag ling (flipped). Way overpriced too.


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