The stud Dia/taper is the same on all to fit the JK knuckle. The Yeti uses a 30mm heat treated ball. Yeti 26 uses a 26mm ball stud.

Assuming you mean the dia. Of the no drill joint? I know that tends to be a concern with some people.

 

I haven't done a ton of research, and also I'm not an engineer, but I'm not sure why the diameter of the stud is such a big deal. The stud's diameter isn't really relevant when looking at the ball's size, which is where a lot of the strength comes from. The stud could be machined to any size and still have an enlarged ball. The only thing that could cause a problem would be if someone snapped the stud off of the end, which I've seen once on a xj with worn out steering components, but to my knowledge, isn't a very common occurrence.

 

Here it is .. Found his response to the no drill joint

he reverse taper top mount is stronger than the original joint. The no drill joint has a large shoulder on the stud that contacts the knuckle face and a interference fit at the top of the factory drilled hole. Plus we have a tapered sleeve that locks in the bottom of the stud to the factory reamed tapered hole. The stud was also induction heat treated to gain a good 30% added strength. Knuckle is stronger because you don;t have the lost material that everyone drills out. Overall, it's a very strong joint and easy to install.

 

Thanks for this information. Not that I am going to rush out and buy one (I've got a yet-to-be-installed Synergy in my garage) but interesting nonetheless. I would still be concerned about shear forces on the stud. The "lost material" due to drill out is a little BS, IMHO, if they are going to mention their tapered sleeve in the same paragraph. They both serve similar purpose. One is to make up for missing material in the knuckle, the other for the missing material on the TRE stud.

Still marketing material. Show me an independent lab's results to prove that the heat treating made it 30% stronger. And 30% stronger than an untreated, smaller stud, or 30% stronger over a stock/Synergy/etc. stud? This is an example as to why I don't put a lot of stock in marketing speak.

 

I'm with Greg. Sure, it's probably a good set up, but how much stronger compared to competitor's or oem parts and the price difference. I don't buy.

 

I agree its not so much the removing material and sloppy drill jobs. But even then you would have to really hack the hole to be a issue.

 

Yeah I decided away from the steersmart and go with a local shop LetzRollOffroad's 1.5 inch 7075 Aluminum with 1 ton tie rod ends. It will require drilling but not a huge issue as I will end up with Reid knuckles plus: drilled, cool looking aluminum and installed for still less than what a yeti costs.

 

Sick. Looks like they do some awesome work. If you don't mind telling, how much did that run you?

 

Another Yeti win do this with a aftermarket tie rod with stock wheels and backspacing.
Somebody did their homework jus sayin :P

 

Stock wheels are gay