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Drag link flip and Tie rod

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Old 09-06-2016 | 06:59 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ShutterBug
For the same reasons I don't buy into any manufacturer's own tests and claims. I don't take the ARB locker test video for anything more than what it is, a video created by the manufacturer. Had the ARB failed before the competitor, that video would never have seen the light of day. Considering all of the shoddy parts that are OEM on a Wrangler, I wouldn't put a lot of stock into them being a supplier for the next model. That doesn't tell me anything. And, anecdotal evidence is just that, anecdotal. "I ran XXX brand for years with no problems" doesn't mean diddly to the guy who had problems 3 weeks after using XXX brand. But, for what it is worth, I think the no flip drag link is a neat idea, but should be discarded for serious off roaders. The stud on the TRE is smaller. No way to get around that. The stresses on that joint are huge on rocks. The last thing I want is a smaller component on my Jeep. Maybe there's a really good reason no one else has done it that way. I do not base this on any actuall engineering knowledge or experience. Then again, I'd rather have that joint fail than my sector shaft. I tout JCR because I like the products, I really like the company, and I especially like the people that own it and work there. The only JCR anything I have on my Jeep that was given to me, was the front bumper I won at JK Freak Fest. The only things JCR ever gave me was a hat and a t-shirt - oh, and a hoodie when I got my EVAP skid. I don't get products to review, I don't get prototypes to test fit. Nothing. Zip. Zero. Nada. I really wish they would, though. And I don't get upset if someone doesn't buy their stuff as there are options for every budget and style.
I dont mean test vs others, or i would agree. i mean internal testing. Product needs to meet certain requirements before leaving the factory.
Old 09-06-2016 | 08:06 AM
  #32  
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A lot of the products made and built by the jeep companies get tested on their jeeps to sell them.

The smaller companies bring a lot of creativity to the market and, typically a very high quality end result. They do it everyday, as for steer smarts, they have been in business for a substantial amount of time. I probably couldn't understand the budget for their engineering and design efforts.

Same time their focus isn't on the jeep brand particularly. Even though they've probably produced jeep factory parts, probably only a few jeeps in the parking lot at the facility. Just like where all of us work.

Probably not alone saying there's something about buying parts from manufacturers that wheel their jeep and need it to perform that way.

Still interested in how the yeti setup performs and the more people rocking it the more feedback that comes through. Synergy sold who knows how many units because of this, hell when most of us were in the market the only other ones were either just like stock or 500 bucks like the rk at the time.
Old 09-06-2016 | 11:44 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by sa29560
A lot of the products made and built by the jeep companies get tested on their jeeps to sell them. The smaller companies bring a lot of creativity to the market and, typically a very high quality end result. They do it everyday, as for steer smarts, they have been in business for a substantial amount of time. I probably couldn't understand the budget for their engineering and design efforts. Same time their focus isn't on the jeep brand particularly. Even though they've probably produced jeep factory parts, probably only a few jeeps in the parking lot at the facility. Just like where all of us work. Probably not alone saying there's something about buying parts from manufacturers that wheel their jeep and need it to perform that way. Still interested in how the yeti setup performs and the more people rocking it the more feedback that comes through. Synergy sold who knows how many units because of this, hell when most of us were in the market the only other ones were either just like stock or 500 bucks like the rk at the time.
Good post !!
Old 09-06-2016 | 08:51 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper
Unsure of how you came to the conclusion that you "went with the largest parts" when you more-so went with the smallest parts per the choices
Well here is my reasoning and manly for anyone else who doesn't want to do the research....

I compared a lot of different companies and their advertised information with some deductive reasoning this is what I found.

Synergy
Tie Rod $375
Drag link $225
Combo $805
Uses 1.375 Chromoly steel with 1Ton ends with a shank of .875" or 22mm

Fusion 4x4
1-Ton
Tie Rod $350
Drag Link $350
Combo $700
Uses 1.5" Solid Aluminum with 1Ton ends assuming they are like all the others have a shank diameter of .875" or 22mm.

2Ton
Tie rod $475
Drag Link $$475
Combo $975
Uses 1.75" solid Aluminum with 2.5Ton ends with 1.25" or 31mm shank

Rock Krawler
Tie Rod $521
Drag Link $284
Combo $805
Uses 1.75" Solid Aluminum and doesn't use the standard ends

Teraflex
Tie Rod $417
Drag link $360
Combo $750
Uses 1.625 Chromoly steel and best I can tell is 1Ton ends

Currie
Tie Rod $700
Drag link $592
Combo $1208
1.625 Chromoly with 1.25" shank ends or 31mm

Steer smarts Yeti
Tie Rod $329
Drag link $399
Combo $729
Uses 1.625 chromoly with 1.25" shank ends or 31mm

So by looking at the number you can decide for yourself but they way I read that is Steer Smarts is comparable to the 2.5Ton Fusion and Currie for a lot cheaper and even if you compared it to the 1Ton stuff it is still on the second cheapest to synergy with has the smallest stuff out there from the big names.

The Yeti's also come with antiflop already which is seemingly a common problem with the Synergy tie rod.

I am an aircraft mechanic and predominantly a metalsmith and have worked with Aluminum a lot and know that it is an extremely strong metal... But I also know how it breaks when it's fatigued and I am not sure I want that on my steering parts especially on a part that takes impacts like a tie rod will. I understand that it will flex and generally return to its shape nut after repeated bends it will sheer. On top of that you have to worry about the corrosion issue with dissimilar metals. With all the beach driving I do and water and what not that is not something I want to be conserned with.

Granted there are many more companies out there and probably cheaper prices but these numbers are all from Northridge or the company websites.

I have yet to receive my yeti's but have seen them install on some other Jeeps local and were rather impressed prior to do my search.



Oh and before it gets said... I am not paid by any company, have any affiliation with any company, or have not received anything free from any company.

If anyone can find other information that proves my info wrong by all means show me and I will change what I have down.

Last edited by Jenks; 09-06-2016 at 08:57 PM.
Old 09-06-2016 | 09:23 PM
  #35  
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Didn't read all your reply but if you're a metal smith/ aircraft mechanic/ UFC fight/ astronaut then why couldn't/didn't you just make your own? It's like 2 piece of tube with rod ends/ heims on the ends... To each their own, I guess.
Old 09-06-2016 | 09:35 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper
Didn't read all your reply but if you're a metal smith/ aircraft mechanic/ UFC fight/ astronaut then why couldn't/didn't you just make your own? It's like 2 piece of tube with rod ends/ heims on the ends... To each their own, I guess.
OH I am perfectly capable of making them, just lack the tooling and time to do it.

Just rather funny that you can troll a thread and not read all content, pull a single sentence out and pass judgement. You asked, I responded, if you don't care to really know what I think or why then simply don't ask and keep skimming.
Old 09-06-2016 | 10:11 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Jenks
OH I am perfectly capable of making them, just lack the tooling and time to do it. Just rather funny that you can troll a thread and not read all content, pull a single sentence out and pass judgement. You asked, I responded, if you don't care to really know what I think or why then simply don't ask and keep skimming.
No judgement has been passed. Only questions and recommendations. That's what a forum is for. Also, the tooling holds water, although I'm not sure what a metal worker works with if it isn't a welder, but the time doesn't, IMO. The time you've taken to make this thread and research each option you could've made 10 sets of drag link and tie rods. You could probably even make them and buy the tooling needed for the same price as the steer smarts.
Old 09-07-2016 | 04:45 AM
  #38  
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Probably because he saw one in person.
Old 09-07-2016 | 05:14 AM
  #39  
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Im in aerospace as well. I could have one made up too. Theres more to a link than a piece of DOM. Joints, heat treat process, e-coating .. Things i cant do.
Old 09-07-2016 | 05:33 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Jenks
Well here is my reasoning and manly for anyone else who doesn't want to do the research....

I compared a lot of different companies and their advertised information with some deductive reasoning this is what I found.

Synergy
Tie Rod $375
Drag link $225
Combo $805
Uses 1.375 Chromoly steel with 1Ton ends with a shank of .875" or 22mm

Fusion 4x4
1-Ton
Tie Rod $350
Drag Link $350
Combo $700
Uses 1.5" Solid Aluminum with 1Ton ends assuming they are like all the others have a shank diameter of .875" or 22mm.

2Ton
Tie rod $475
Drag Link $$475
Combo $975
Uses 1.75" solid Aluminum with 2.5Ton ends with 1.25" or 31mm shank

Rock Krawler
Tie Rod $521
Drag Link $284
Combo $805
Uses 1.75" Solid Aluminum and doesn't use the standard ends

Teraflex
Tie Rod $417
Drag link $360
Combo $750
Uses 1.625 Chromoly steel and best I can tell is 1Ton ends

Currie
Tie Rod $700
Drag link $592
Combo $1208
1.625 Chromoly with 1.25" shank ends or 31mm

Steer smarts Yeti
Tie Rod $329
Drag link $399
Combo $729
Uses 1.625 chromoly with 1.25" shank ends or 31mm

So by looking at the number you can decide for yourself but they way I read that is Steer Smarts is comparable to the 2.5Ton Fusion and Currie for a lot cheaper and even if you compared it to the 1Ton stuff it is still on the second cheapest to synergy with has the smallest stuff out there from the big names.

The Yeti's also come with antiflop already which is seemingly a common problem with the Synergy tie rod.

I am an aircraft mechanic and predominantly a metalsmith and have worked with Aluminum a lot and know that it is an extremely strong metal... But I also know how it breaks when it's fatigued and I am not sure I want that on my steering parts especially on a part that takes impacts like a tie rod will. I understand that it will flex and generally return to its shape nut after repeated bends it will sheer. On top of that you have to worry about the corrosion issue with dissimilar metals. With all the beach driving I do and water and what not that is not something I want to be conserned with.

Granted there are many more companies out there and probably cheaper prices but these numbers are all from Northridge or the company websites.

I have yet to receive my yeti's but have seen them install on some other Jeeps local and were rather impressed prior to do my search.



Oh and before it gets said... I am not paid by any company, have any affiliation with any company, or have not received anything free from any company.

If anyone can find other information that proves my info wrong by all means show me and I will change what I have down.
Awesome job on the research. Very compelling.

I am curious, however, if your research revealed the diameter of the TRE stud on the Yeti compared to the Synergy and others?


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