kjeeper10

2 ? Lol takes 3 to bolt it up

ShutterBug

$225 vs $400. I'll spend the extra two minutes. It's worth the $175.

kjeeper10

Yeti 26 is under $200 but yea 400 is expensive for a DL.

ShutterBug

Looks like the lower half of a stock right-hand drive drag link. The other two parts are $120. Apples to apples, it's now $100 more than a complete Synergy drag link.

casamtb

X4 on the synergy. Super beefy and reasonable price. Plus the powdercoat is ridiculous. Did u already do the flip?

Jenks

Thanks everyone for the input!

I am intrigued with Yeti components still as I never really put much thought into the fact that all the end links pretty much use the same diameter shaft. Even on the flips they are the same as you ream it out to put a insert roughly same size back in.

With that being said I understand that all the end links are close but slightly different so the next thing to complare would be the main rod itself. The Yeti 26 doesn't anywhere that I have seen states what size of material it is made out of.

But as it stands right now though I am still kind of leaning towards the synergy setup mainly because it can be used both ways (over or under). I want to do the flip but really don't want to throw a raised track bar bracket on as I was thinking of doing the Atrec truss with the intragraded raised track bar mount. Just not at the point I am ready to do that yet. So in the mean time I can run drag link under until that time.

Unless there won't be any ill affects of running a flipped drag link with out a raised track bar. It is an adjustable RK front track bar on it now. That would possibly change my thinking again.

Thanks

sa29560

Drag link flip and raised track bar come together.

Do both or not at all.

casamtb

You have to do them at the same time. The DL and TB have to be parallel or there will be issues. If u do the flip, you have to raise the TB at the same time. With the lift u have u may want to raise them. Either way eventually u get sick of the bump steer and boingy feeling. Wether you truss or bracket, you're going the have to take the front apart anyhow to bump stop. Decisions decisions. Good luck with the build.

kjeeper10

Bar looks the same as stock in diameter. I shot a PM to the rep for details. The ball stud is 26mm hence Yeti 26. Nice upgrade considering the no drill/flop joint but agree, a 2nd joint would be a good idea. Tho most failures seem to be at the knuckle. Thats another feature not mentioned, the knuckle side joint limits articulation in one direction which will save the boot and prolong life. My Synergy links would flop around eventually tearing the boot and letting in crap.

Edit

Jenks

Well I made my decision, placed an order for a set of Steer Smarts yeti tie rod and drag link. Going to use the Rock Krawler raised front track bar bracket as I was impressed with their rear brackets build. Was really torn between the Synergy, Yeti, or Fusion 1Ton but went for the larger parts. Hopefully this will be the last set I will have to buy.

Thanks to everyone for all the inputs and will update when they come in.