Jenks

So have some play in my drag link end and slight play one of my tie rod ends which I am thinking is causing my wobble/shimmy shake at 50+mph. Didn't really notice it prior but after installing a 3.5 RK max travel and 37" Cooper STT PROs its very noticeable.

So my question is with all the different brands out there, is one more popular or better than another. It seemed like Synergy is the favorite and most affordable. Starting to hear good things about Steer Smart Yeti but are considerably more, is it worth it? Then there Fusion 4x4 (can't swing their 2.5Ton looking at there 1 Ton) with aluminum rods... Sounds good but the possibility of corrosion between the steel ends and the aluminum worries me...

There are a lot more out there I am sure but looking for the best in the $600 or so range. I am not overly worried about drilling for the flip. Just trying to narrow down my search.

Thanks

karls10jk

What do you plan to do with your jeep before everyone starts throwing opinions out there? If you're going to run through Morgan's Corner then you'll want something steel.

Another thing to look at on each of the rods is how they adjust. Synergy is great for "on vehicle" adjustment but if you start adjusting too far then their pinch bolts won't apply enough preload that you'll need.

For driving up and down 17 between EC and Chesapeake, the ruff stuff tie rod works. I went much cheaper on my drag link than I should have but it also functions to drive down the road. I don't know how it'll work with 'flexing' yet but daily drivers don't see much of that.

Jenks

It's my everyday driver currently but also enjoy getting out on the trails. I have a tendency to play in the mud every now and then but not very often. I do tend to like to over do things but don't intend to get into any serious rock bouncing and such. I would say I am cautious and responsible driver when wheelin. There is also a possibility I might end up on the west coast where the trails are considerably tougher and don't want to have to replace it later.

Thanks

kjeeper10

Steersmarts now makes a Yeti 26 link. No drilling and uses a factory joint at pitman arm. http://steersmarts.com/products/yeti...mount-draglink

Prob overkill but heres the HD version of the no drill drag link. Adjustment is as easy as it gets and the threads are e-coated for corrosion prevention.

http://steersmarts.com/products/jk-w...mount-draglink

ShutterBug

I know how much you love those Yeti products, so don't take this as anything against you. But in order to do a no-drill flip, the TRE on the knuckle end of the drag link has to have a smaller-than-stock stud. I don't see this as a positive.

Jenks

I agree, I don't see the point of putting the a stock TRE back on as it is weak to begin with. That is the same reason I am not leaning towards the no drill by Yeti. It is pretty much a stock like upside down.

I am fine with drilling just trying to figure out which company has the best flip and ends.

kjeeper10

Steersmarts parent company is Power&sons which makes oem equipment including the new 2017 JL's steering. The engineering, designing testing is 2nd to none.
The diameter of the stud /taper doesnt change. The joint itself is larger/stronger. I would not worry about the straight stud because theres a tapered insert that installs up through the bottom. As far as strength it been put through many tests.

http://youtu.be/KkqST7elGwE

kjeeper10

Hes talking about the stud diameter not the joint itself. The stock taper dimension doesnt change, how the joint is made ie metal, Heat treat, etc, size, how it seals out contaminants does.

The Yeti 26 is a stock upgrade, stronger, no drill, does keep the stock pitman side joint.
From my understanding AEV is going to start using the 26 with their highsteer kits.

The HD yeti is in another league. Honestly the 26 is more then most will ever need.

Monte417

Been running the synergy linkage for a few years on 37s and hydro assist. I have yet to change out an end. All four tre ends on the draglink and the tie rod are still tight. The bars have no bends and they have been on the rocks a lot. Just my two cents

sa29560

Guys it takes two minutes to drill this hole.

Dropping more money to not drill is ridiculous, just my opinion. A cheap pneumatic drill from HF is like 30 bucks. Fry it drilling (opening rather) this ONE hole, and it's still worth it.

I've been running synergy as well, drag link and tie rod. This is not a hard job even with a new axle bracket and high steer setup. Not saying the yeti isn't sweet, it definitely is. Looked at it as well while searching for replacements.