Drag Link Flip
10-08-2013, 10:00 PM
#1
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Drag Link Flip
I've spent a few moments looking to find a write up - didn't see anything jump out at me, so I'll go ahead and ask. "Can you / how do you - flip the factory drag link on the JK?" I've already ordered a bushing for when I drill out the knuckle, and a replacement pitman arm (had a dropped arm on it now). I have heard that you can flip the OEM drag link, but have not actually seen one. Any input or pics would be greatly appreciated.
10-09-2013, 05:11 AM
#2
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I've spent a few moments looking to find a write up - didn't see anything jump out at me, so I'll go ahead and ask. "Can you / how do you - flip the factory drag link on the JK?" I've already ordered a bushing for when I drill out the knuckle, and a replacement pitman arm (had a dropped arm on it now). I have heard that you can flip the OEM drag link, but have not actually seen one. Any input or pics would be greatly appreciated.
Most flip kits come with the tapered bushing you will need once you drill out the existing tapered hole in the steering knuckle. I am not a fan of this design mainly because you are taking a tapered hole which is very sturdy and drilling it straight to put a bushing which is not tapered on the outside but only on the inside. Unless the bushing's inside taper causes the bushings diameter to expand in the straight knuckle hole, I'm not sure this is a good idea.
Also, if you do a drag link flip, you really should modify the track bar bracket(s) to maintain correct geometry.
I have a 4" Rancho Sport Lift with drop pitman arm and drop track bar bracket. They were engineered to work together from the get-go. My steering has always been solid.
10-09-2013, 05:18 AM
#3
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The axle end of the factory drag link is fixed. You need a factory Right Hand Drive drag link to flip to the top of the knuckle. I believe they go for about $70, give or take.
If you're going thru the effort, get a better link with better ends, Synergy or Carolina Metal Masters, or RK but you either have to use factory ends or a Moog alternative.
Also, as the above post point out, you need to raise the axle end of the trackbar 3" to match the drag link angle and height. The drag link and trackbar have to be parallel and in the same plane as each other or else you will have issues.
A drop pitman arm and frame trackbar drop bracket work at keeping the angles correct, but both lower the front roll center (inducing more body roll) and put more stress on an already weak steering box.
It's also recommended to raise the rear trackbar at the axle as well if you have not already when you raise the front. The rear should be slightly higher than the front to give you a positive roll axis. It's liveable without it, but will drive like shit if you leave the rear lower than the front. Again I don't advise trackbar drop brackets in any way shape or form.
If you're going thru the effort, get a better link with better ends, Synergy or Carolina Metal Masters, or RK but you either have to use factory ends or a Moog alternative.
Also, as the above post point out, you need to raise the axle end of the trackbar 3" to match the drag link angle and height. The drag link and trackbar have to be parallel and in the same plane as each other or else you will have issues.
A drop pitman arm and frame trackbar drop bracket work at keeping the angles correct, but both lower the front roll center (inducing more body roll) and put more stress on an already weak steering box.
It's also recommended to raise the rear trackbar at the axle as well if you have not already when you raise the front. The rear should be slightly higher than the front to give you a positive roll axis. It's liveable without it, but will drive like shit if you leave the rear lower than the front. Again I don't advise trackbar drop brackets in any way shape or form.
Last edited by JKred; 10-09-2013 at 05:22 AM.