Doing it Right from the start!!
06-23-2015, 03:39 AM
#21
Super Moderator
New jk owner here so 10 lashings per day max. Seriously, I'm a new jeep owner and can't be happier. It's very nice to get some advice from guys that have been there and done that. I appreciate it in advance.
I've been reading a lot on what not to do when upgrading the suspension and tires. How about some thoughts on doing it correctly.
My uses aren't nearly as demanding as some, about the only real off-road I do is on Forrest roads (nw) and moab couple four times a year.
Have a pretty much stock 10 jku, front/rear bumpers, winch, led bar, exhaust. That's all so far.
Looking to go with a 2.5 or 3 lift, 35's, and psc fenders.
Havent really looked into lifts, but definately want something thats not RC lol. I've been pointed in the direction of ome, aev, and jks. Want to maintain drivability and road comfort, while still retaining some capabilities off-road. Not too worried about trail performance, I'm a pussy when it comes to wheeling my daily driver.
Any help educating me is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I've been reading a lot on what not to do when upgrading the suspension and tires. How about some thoughts on doing it correctly.
My uses aren't nearly as demanding as some, about the only real off-road I do is on Forrest roads (nw) and moab couple four times a year.
Have a pretty much stock 10 jku, front/rear bumpers, winch, led bar, exhaust. That's all so far.
Looking to go with a 2.5 or 3 lift, 35's, and psc fenders.
Havent really looked into lifts, but definately want something thats not RC lol. I've been pointed in the direction of ome, aev, and jks. Want to maintain drivability and road comfort, while still retaining some capabilities off-road. Not too worried about trail performance, I'm a pussy when it comes to wheeling my daily driver.
Any help educating me is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Ride is 100% subjective and what works for one may not work for you. I have had two lifts, Pro-Comp 2.5 inch lift and now the EVO Plush Ride coils, Rancho RS 9000 XL adjustable shocks, Rock Krawler front lower control arms and adjustable front track bar. For the rear I have the EVO rear track bar relocation bracket. Replaced all 4 brake lines with Crown, 4"-6" of lift, stainless steel brake lines, just so I would not have to change them later. My 2011 JKU handles really well on and off road, again that is according to me.
My recommendation is to find some local Jeepers that have different lifts and take a ride and make the decision yourself. I did not do this and went with a Pro-Comp lift and regretted it. Parts and labor was close to $1100 to be on my Jeep for just over 6 months. Now some will say Pro-Comp is a great lift and that is their opinion, but for me it was not.
R/
Will
06-23-2015, 06:41 AM
#22
Six years ago when I scored my Rubi I thought I had the build & costs dialed. Wasn't building it too big, no sir, just a 3" and 35s for me. One trip to Moab and it was 4" & 37s . Lesson: Don't go small unless you're dead certain it's all you'll ever need.
06-23-2015, 07:11 AM
#23
Former Member
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06-23-2015, 04:38 PM
#24
JK Super Freak
I like your style
No lift ace fender eliminators trimed pinch seams and thirty fives! www.overlandoff-road.com
06-24-2015, 04:28 AM
#25
JK Jedi
I agree on your philosophy, but wheres the limit? Im sure youve seen Andys buggy on 54s. Many stop at 40, but many also go 42+. 40 plus if you feel you truly need them i also feel you should be ok with rolling your rig.
06-24-2015, 05:17 PM
#26
JK Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Quincy, MA
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After 2 years of research, i went with AEV 2.5 DS XT, Rancho control arm brackets, Synergy swaybar links, grade 8 bolt kit, adj trackbar. Mickey Baja MtZ@35. 17" Black Rhino Sidewinders. Stayed below 3.5 to avoid driveshaft issues. Doin research and finding what you like is all apart of the fun. If MC wasnt yellow i may have gone w them...happy building!
Last edited by 12-JKRubi; 06-24-2015 at 05:31 PM.
06-24-2015, 05:51 PM
#27
JK Junkie
I did the Currie 3.5" lift on a Unlimited jeep after first having a teraflex 2" lift. It was perfect for the larger jeep and rode great on the road. Once you dial in all the control arms it runs very smooth. I changed out shocks to some fox with res and it was such a nice ride.
My new plans will be likely to go with a 2.5" lift but with a system that includes upper and lower control arms. (no brand decided yet but likely clayton or currie) I just recently got a new 2 door jeep and know from the geometry I should stay at 2.5" without pushing the drive shaft angles beyond tolerances. I don't want to deal with having to change out driveshafts as the types of terrain around here I'd be more than fine with 2.5" and 35" tires. Best bet is to understand first what your spending so much money on. Understand what control arms allow you to change and what kind of adjustments are needed to tie rods and driveshafts etc... When you lift a jeep think of how the angles change so you understand the role of each of the parts. A lift is basically raising the body away from the axles but in turn changes the angle of the driveshaft connections as the transfer case is attached to the body. Also because the control arms are not adjustable when you lift the body from the axle it is basically changing the angle where it connects to the axles. adjustable control arms allow you to turn back the axle. Some systems only have uppers or lowers and you can adjust just on side which is fine but it limits the travel of the system to some extent.
I have a manual rubi so it has 4.10 gearing. The only real reason for the lift is to get more clearances for the tires and flexibility (travel) so I'd first figure out how large you plan to go with the tires and what terrain you plan to challenge yourself with. A.K.A. Puckerville or worn out country roads. I know a stock jeep could go 35" but it would be tight when wheeling if you go in a terrain that requires allot of off camber situations. another example: A Rubi comes with 32" tires so an extra 1.5" would fill it out more but it would still fit. If you wheel puckerville it would likely cause rubbing once in awhile if I had to stuff the tire on one side or the other in a off camber situation. You could resolve that by just replacing the fenders to flat fenders but your travel will be limited with stock control arms to some extent because of the bushing design in the stock arms. (Not designed for heavy flex). Flexibility will be key so one side can drop and the other side can move up. You see this often on heavy modified buggies and trudges where one side drops 12" and the other side climbs ups rock that is 12" and the vehicle maintains level.
Do some searches and look at buggies from KOH and look how well they flex yet and have freedom to go up on one side and drop far on the opposite side. It will help understand where quality helps when climbing through boulders and other obstacles.
It's been 4-5 years since I've done any research on what the JK has changed (I was banned at one point here) but I can say I'm a fan of getting a system with 8 control arms and flex joints on the ends for wheeling.
Edit: Can I just say I think the stock arms are a piece of crap!
My new plans will be likely to go with a 2.5" lift but with a system that includes upper and lower control arms. (no brand decided yet but likely clayton or currie) I just recently got a new 2 door jeep and know from the geometry I should stay at 2.5" without pushing the drive shaft angles beyond tolerances. I don't want to deal with having to change out driveshafts as the types of terrain around here I'd be more than fine with 2.5" and 35" tires. Best bet is to understand first what your spending so much money on. Understand what control arms allow you to change and what kind of adjustments are needed to tie rods and driveshafts etc... When you lift a jeep think of how the angles change so you understand the role of each of the parts. A lift is basically raising the body away from the axles but in turn changes the angle of the driveshaft connections as the transfer case is attached to the body. Also because the control arms are not adjustable when you lift the body from the axle it is basically changing the angle where it connects to the axles. adjustable control arms allow you to turn back the axle. Some systems only have uppers or lowers and you can adjust just on side which is fine but it limits the travel of the system to some extent.
I have a manual rubi so it has 4.10 gearing. The only real reason for the lift is to get more clearances for the tires and flexibility (travel) so I'd first figure out how large you plan to go with the tires and what terrain you plan to challenge yourself with. A.K.A. Puckerville or worn out country roads. I know a stock jeep could go 35" but it would be tight when wheeling if you go in a terrain that requires allot of off camber situations. another example: A Rubi comes with 32" tires so an extra 1.5" would fill it out more but it would still fit. If you wheel puckerville it would likely cause rubbing once in awhile if I had to stuff the tire on one side or the other in a off camber situation. You could resolve that by just replacing the fenders to flat fenders but your travel will be limited with stock control arms to some extent because of the bushing design in the stock arms. (Not designed for heavy flex). Flexibility will be key so one side can drop and the other side can move up. You see this often on heavy modified buggies and trudges where one side drops 12" and the other side climbs ups rock that is 12" and the vehicle maintains level.
Do some searches and look at buggies from KOH and look how well they flex yet and have freedom to go up on one side and drop far on the opposite side. It will help understand where quality helps when climbing through boulders and other obstacles.
It's been 4-5 years since I've done any research on what the JK has changed (I was banned at one point here) but I can say I'm a fan of getting a system with 8 control arms and flex joints on the ends for wheeling.
Edit: Can I just say I think the stock arms are a piece of crap!
Last edited by DunnyBunny; 06-24-2015 at 08:41 PM.
06-25-2015, 03:38 AM
#28
JK Jedi
Agreed i ran 12" travel on stock arms with no limitations. Just had to swap bushings alot and finally made my own arms.
Also koh buggies are a very different animal. I have worked on, wheeled, and seen a few in person, overkill for what most anyone does here. hell some of the ifs koh cars don't crawl as well as one built for purely crawling but stil can handle more than most will put theres thru on here
Also koh buggies are a very different animal. I have worked on, wheeled, and seen a few in person, overkill for what most anyone does here. hell some of the ifs koh cars don't crawl as well as one built for purely crawling but stil can handle more than most will put theres thru on here
06-25-2015, 07:29 AM
#30
JK Junkie