Do I REALLY need a new Driveshaft right away with an AEV 4.5" SC....
#1
JK Freak
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Do I REALLY need a new Driveshaft right away with an AEV 4.5" SC....
I will definatley be changing out both front and rear without question in 2-3 months. Until then, if I strictly see pavement, is it an absolute necessity I get the driveshafts done with the install of the 4.5" SC. I will be running 38's with a 1" Tera spacer.
The reason why its in Question is that my first round of mods is almost 8k and its been an EXPENSIVE year, my first round is income limiting. I have a decent check coming middle of Feb. I was going to go back and do 5:13 gears and both driveshafts. I didnt know if I could get away with running the stockers for 2 months on the street?
1st round of Mods-
AEV 4.5" SC
18X10" Moto Metal 961
38X15.5" Nitto Mud Grapplers
Gusset/Sleeves
Smitty SRC side Armor
Lighting guy HID heads/fogs
Feb. Mods round 2
Drive shafts
Gears
ARB Front Bumper
Expedition One rear bumper
Lightforce 240s
The reason why its in Question is that my first round of mods is almost 8k and its been an EXPENSIVE year, my first round is income limiting. I have a decent check coming middle of Feb. I was going to go back and do 5:13 gears and both driveshafts. I didnt know if I could get away with running the stockers for 2 months on the street?
1st round of Mods-
AEV 4.5" SC
18X10" Moto Metal 961
38X15.5" Nitto Mud Grapplers
Gusset/Sleeves
Smitty SRC side Armor
Lighting guy HID heads/fogs
Feb. Mods round 2
Drive shafts
Gears
ARB Front Bumper
Expedition One rear bumper
Lightforce 240s
#3
JK Freak
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#4
JK Jedi Master
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The joints at the tcase will be at steeper angles, pinching the little boots inside. When the boots wear through, they lose all their grease, dry out, get noisy, and finally seize. If you are on the freeway at the time, post some pics for us. (it is possible to take out the tcase and r&p, as well as the shaft).
#5
JK Freak
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The joints at the tcase will be at steeper angles, pinching the little boots inside. When the boots wear through, they lose all their grease, dry out, get noisy, and finally seize. If you are on the freeway at the time, post some pics for us. (it is possible to take out the tcase and r&p, as well as the shaft).
#6
JK Jedi Master
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Street only, you don't need the front shaft. For the rear, just make a habit of crawling underneath every couple of days to check for grease splatter. It is very noticeable, you'll see a big ring on the undercarriage above the joint. You could be fine until you get the new shafts - as noted above, no one can say when, or even if, you will have a problem.
Just keep an eye on the grease and an ear on any new noises.
Just keep an eye on the grease and an ear on any new noises.
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#9
JK Freak
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At this point I wont chance it for $700. I know I still need to do the back. I have some pretty bad luck, I would probably grenade everything near the driveshaft mall crawling!
#10
JK Enthusiast
A buddy of mine says "get it all done on one mad". If his wife is mad at him he just gets all of the things she is going to mad about spending money on "all in one mad".