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Do I need to replace driveshaft w/ a lift?

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Old 06-29-2013, 09:09 PM
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Default Do I need to replace driveshaft w/ a lift?

I've heard that if I get a lift over 2.5" then I have to replace my driveshaft or something? Can anybody confirm or deny this for me? If it is true then why, and how much will this cost?
Old 06-29-2013, 09:15 PM
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Yes, both on a 2 door and front on a 4 door. 4-5 hundred each. The angles on the stock rear on a two door will kill it. The front will rub on the exhaust.
Old 06-29-2013, 09:20 PM
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Because you have a 2012+ this is an issue. It depends on the lift and how you plan to use it... some lifts limit the "droop" of the front axle so you won't need a new driveshaft. If you never disconnect your sway bar and wheel your jeep hard you will most likely be fine with the OEM driveshaft. If you plan to flex it out disconnected, you run the risk of having the driveshaft making contact with your exhaust crossover.

If you want to risk it and go with the OEM its not a big deal, worst case you screw up your drive shaft by tearing the boot up or something but you will still likely be able to make it off the trail and drive it on the street 2wd.
Old 06-29-2013, 09:34 PM
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I have 2010 unlimited with 3.5" metal cloak coils and manually disco the sway bars. No issues for me yet, personally I think its a crap shoot. I do see where it has contacted the tranny pan though, but the rub marks are on the pan and nothing really on the shaft.
Old 06-30-2013, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by lkjk
I have 2010 unlimited with 3.5" metal cloak coils and manually disco the sway bars. No issues for me yet, personally I think its a crap shoot. I do see where it has contacted the tranny pan though, but the rub marks are on the pan and nothing really on the shaft.
I also have a 2010 with 3.5" lift . Not only did it rub the trans. On a big drop it tore the slip boot. Then after about 6 months it was slinging grease from the little boot by the transfer case end and started to cause a vibration. I switched to a Adams driveshaft front and rear and have no issues. I daily drive mine and offroad it. Eventually you will have to replace it.
Old 06-30-2013, 05:14 AM
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I run 3.5" RK on unlimiteds Rubi and ran my factory front for two years. I wheel at least once a month and use every bit of flex I have. That being said I got two years out of my front ds and it just started slinging grease. I also went with Adam's and they are by far the nicest out there and at reasonable prices.
Old 06-30-2013, 05:50 AM
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My front just started slinging grease too! It lasted about a year on my jeep... I too am looking at Adams! They seem like a good product for the money!
Old 06-30-2013, 07:03 AM
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To the OP with the 2012 and newer it is highly recommended to replace your front drive shaft at 2.5" lift height. The reason behind this is because of the location of the exhaust in relation to the drive shaft. You can get away with an exhaust spacer however the drive shaft replacement is the better way to go.

Adams drive shafts are excellent quality and have a very reasonable price tag. PM us if you would like any quotes on a lift, set of drive shafts, shocks, or a package deal.

Also feel free to PM us anytime you have a question about anything, want to go wheeling, or even just to BS about Jeeps!
Old 06-30-2013, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by acrawford0316
I've heard that if I get a lift over 2.5" then I have to replace my driveshaft or something? Can anybody confirm or deny this for me? If it is true then why, and how much will this cost?
The why: At the transfer case end of both driveshafts there is a rzeppa joint that has a rubber grease seal boot. When you lift the Jeep, you increase the driveshaft angles and this boot can get pinched and torn. Once this happens, grease will leak out of the joint and water and dirt will get in causing the joint to fail. The aftermarket driveshafts use a different type of joint that isn't affected by this.

I put 40k miles on my 2011 JKUR Auto with 4" of lift and never replaced the driveshafts. My 2012 JK 2DR manual has about 4" of lift and still has the stock shafts as well. I wheeled both of them on difficult trails and fully flexed the suspension on both a whole lot. Of course, your experience may vary.

Cost varies a bunch with Adams and Tatton seeming to be the cheapest. Shop around and you can find them for $350 each.



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