Do i need to regear to get Eaton TT front and e-locker rear installed ?
#1
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Do i need to regear to get Eaton TT front and e-locker rear installed ?
i know eventually i'll need to regear, but out of curiosity since i'd really want to buy this items in a couple of months,
Current setup
2013 JKU Sport, A5 with factory 3.21's, 285/70/17 BFG K02's on 17x9 aftermarket wheels, 2.5" lift will be installed next week.
I was checking with Quadratec tonight, and i see the Eaton Detroit Truetrac for the D30 front diff and Eaton e-locker for the D44 rear diff are both offered for 3.73 and numerically higher gear ratios?, Will i have to upgrade the gears if i get myself into this new items ? if i wanted to start slowly, can i simply run a rear e-locker with my 3.21's for now ? and if so, is there a different part# for that elocker ?
i'm more interested running an LSD in the front since i'd think this option is more forgiven for the weak D30 diff, and i'ts just around $200 more expensive than an aussie locker, not that i'll plowing snow with the Jeep in the Winter, but i do take the family out to Big Bear, Mammoth, etc during winter times, so having to deal with a locked up front and/or rear without the chance of turning it off whenever i want/need is out of the picture. i'm leaving the selectable option for the rear with an elocker setup, and less chances of binding/breaking crap in the front with just an LSD, i'm not into king of the hammers and Chocolate Thunder runs , but i have plans for some rocks here and there in the big bear area, i used to do this with my FJ Crusier and factory IFS , i'll refuse to believe an LSD equipped D30 front diff willl be weaker than a IFS setup
Current setup
2013 JKU Sport, A5 with factory 3.21's, 285/70/17 BFG K02's on 17x9 aftermarket wheels, 2.5" lift will be installed next week.
I was checking with Quadratec tonight, and i see the Eaton Detroit Truetrac for the D30 front diff and Eaton e-locker for the D44 rear diff are both offered for 3.73 and numerically higher gear ratios?, Will i have to upgrade the gears if i get myself into this new items ? if i wanted to start slowly, can i simply run a rear e-locker with my 3.21's for now ? and if so, is there a different part# for that elocker ?
i'm more interested running an LSD in the front since i'd think this option is more forgiven for the weak D30 diff, and i'ts just around $200 more expensive than an aussie locker, not that i'll plowing snow with the Jeep in the Winter, but i do take the family out to Big Bear, Mammoth, etc during winter times, so having to deal with a locked up front and/or rear without the chance of turning it off whenever i want/need is out of the picture. i'm leaving the selectable option for the rear with an elocker setup, and less chances of binding/breaking crap in the front with just an LSD, i'm not into king of the hammers and Chocolate Thunder runs , but i have plans for some rocks here and there in the big bear area, i used to do this with my FJ Crusier and factory IFS , i'll refuse to believe an LSD equipped D30 front diff willl be weaker than a IFS setup
#2
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Found the options for truetrac and e-locker for 3.54 and lower gears from Northridge4x4, question is, if i get those, would i able to regear higher ?
Damn it why does it have to be this expensive to add traction helpers , it seems as i have to regear right from the start, basically $2000 worth in parts, more likely another $1k in install costs, fack..
Damn it why does it have to be this expensive to add traction helpers , it seems as i have to regear right from the start, basically $2000 worth in parts, more likely another $1k in install costs, fack..
#3
Found the options for truetrac and e-locker for 3.54 and lower gears from Northridge4x4, question is, if i get those, would i able to regear higher ? Damn it why does it have to be this expensive to add traction helpers , it seems as i have to regear right from the start, basically $2000 worth in parts, more likely another $1k in install costs, fack..
#4
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They will have to gear a
You axle when u get new traction devices no matter what. The problem u have is their really isn't a whole lot of devices that are for the front d30 with below 3.73 gear ( aka your 3.21) the next thing is why bother even if you could have them put back on? Just get the gears you want and have them installed while in there. Yes you have the cost of new gears but that'll be it. There will be setup no matter what u decide
You axle when u get new traction devices no matter what. The problem u have is their really isn't a whole lot of devices that are for the front d30 with below 3.73 gear ( aka your 3.21) the next thing is why bother even if you could have them put back on? Just get the gears you want and have them installed while in there. Yes you have the cost of new gears but that'll be it. There will be setup no matter what u decide
#5
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Thanks a lot folks, it'll make more sense to get the gears now anyways, as I'll need them no matter what, the only think I can think off to save money will be to leave the front open, but since I'll crack the diff open as well to get the gears installed, it'll kill me not to get that truetrac installed?
Just to make sure, will that truetrac work good in my front diff with the A5 trans and our traction control system??
Also regarding the gears, I'll be running 33's for a while, but if going bigger, and that won't be anytime soon, I'll do 35's tops, should I do 4.10's or 4.56's
Just to make sure, will that truetrac work good in my front diff with the A5 trans and our traction control system??
Also regarding the gears, I'll be running 33's for a while, but if going bigger, and that won't be anytime soon, I'll do 35's tops, should I do 4.10's or 4.56's
#6
I run 4.56 gears with my 33's, and I love it. Great off-road, good on the road. I have front and rear TT and also love those.
When you change the carrier, they have to remove the ring gear anyhow. It doesn't cost anymore to swap the carrier when you do a gear change. You'll need master install kits as well as proper gears and your carrier of choice.
When you change the carrier, they have to remove the ring gear anyhow. It doesn't cost anymore to swap the carrier when you do a gear change. You'll need master install kits as well as proper gears and your carrier of choice.
#7
I run 4.56 gears with my 33's, and I love it. Great off-road, good on the road. I have front and rear TT and also love those. When you change the carrier, they have to remove the ring gear anyhow. It doesn't cost anymore to swap the carrier when you do a gear change. You'll need master install kits as well as proper gears and your carrier of choice.
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#8
My entire set up with labor was just under 2400. I got my TT off summit racing. They were the cheapest I found and had free shipping. Morris 4x4 price matched Yukons from a package that Northridge 4x4 had going on, minus the master install kits. I got both install kits for 200 bucks from a website called No where to jeep, or something like that. I can look it up. If you shop around, you can find the stuff cheap. The install kits I got had Timken bearings too.
I think labor came out to like 900 bucks, 450 a side. That was with my military discount though. Most shops will offer Vets an incentive if you are a veteran. This is also a good time to upgrade your diff covers. If not, at least by your 300 mile gear lube replacement. I picked up SOLID diff covers for 65 each direct from Spyntech, and used lube locker gaskets. Easy Peasy driveway install in under an hour. The good thing about truetracs is you don't need the LSD additive, so plane old GL rated 80W90 is all you need. I change mine often because it's cheap insurance and I tow a boat and trailer sometimes.
When you swap the covers, remember that you can't use the old finger in the hole technique to fill it up. You'll have to make sure you use the right amount of fluid by measuring. The 44 takes 4 pints, the 30 takes 2.5. Good luck buddy.
I think labor came out to like 900 bucks, 450 a side. That was with my military discount though. Most shops will offer Vets an incentive if you are a veteran. This is also a good time to upgrade your diff covers. If not, at least by your 300 mile gear lube replacement. I picked up SOLID diff covers for 65 each direct from Spyntech, and used lube locker gaskets. Easy Peasy driveway install in under an hour. The good thing about truetracs is you don't need the LSD additive, so plane old GL rated 80W90 is all you need. I change mine often because it's cheap insurance and I tow a boat and trailer sometimes.
When you swap the covers, remember that you can't use the old finger in the hole technique to fill it up. You'll have to make sure you use the right amount of fluid by measuring. The 44 takes 4 pints, the 30 takes 2.5. Good luck buddy.
I'm torn between 4.56 and 4.88's myself! I have a 6spd manual though. With 3.21's I never leave 5th gear on the highway. The sprint booster helped low end but I feel it's just masking the problem. Gears is the only solution though. Just not ready to drop 3k with gears, LSD, and install!
#9
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Thanks a lot folks, it'll make more sense to get the gears now anyways, as I'll need them no matter what, the only think I can think off to save money will be to leave the front open, but since I'll crack the diff open as well to get the gears installed, it'll kill me not to get that truetrac installed?
Just to make sure, will that truetrac work good in my front diff with the A5 trans and our traction control system??
Just to make sure, will that truetrac work good in my front diff with the A5 trans and our traction control system??
No issues with any traction devices up front, only the rear. (that I have seen anyway). The issues people have is with automatic lockers (detroit style) in the rear of 2012+ JK's with automatic transmissions. You are going with a selectable in back, so no problems.
If you want to save a little money, go with a pair of truetracs. Lots of threads with great reviews on this setup.
Current prices at Summit Racing are $390 front d30, $365 rear d44 after rebate. (you might check to see if there is a rebate on the front that isn't listed)
Front - 912A585
Rear - 913A589
Last edited by nthinuf; 08-13-2015 at 11:06 AM.
#10
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
The open carrier in the d30 works only for 3.21's. When you change to higher numeric gears, you need to buy a new open carrier to hold them. Why would you buy a new open carrier instead of going ahead and buying the truetrac?
No issues with any traction devices up front, only the rear. (that I have seen anyway). The issues people have is with automatic lockers (detroit style) in the rear of 2012+ JK's with automatic transmissions. You are going with a selectable in back, so no problems.
If you want to save a little money, go with a pair of truetracs. Lots of threads with great reviews on this setup.
Current prices at Summit Racing are $390 front d30, $365 rear d44 after rebate. (you might check to see if there is a rebate on the front that isn't listed)
Front - 912A585
Rear - 913A589
No issues with any traction devices up front, only the rear. (that I have seen anyway). The issues people have is with automatic lockers (detroit style) in the rear of 2012+ JK's with automatic transmissions. You are going with a selectable in back, so no problems.
If you want to save a little money, go with a pair of truetracs. Lots of threads with great reviews on this setup.
Current prices at Summit Racing are $390 front d30, $365 rear d44 after rebate. (you might check to see if there is a rebate on the front that isn't listed)
Front - 912A585
Rear - 913A589
Thanks again everybody for the tips, much appreciated.
Last edited by rsmwrangler; 08-13-2015 at 05:24 PM.