jadmt

just got back from the ramp and it touches so minor on mine only when fully dropped on the very top (same shocks) back off a few inches and does not touch I am going to leave it. it actually just touches the boot get rid of that and im golden lol.

GJeep

As the thread involves the front axle, D_engels’ mentioning the CRC was irrelevant.
Reminding that “a CRC Link prevents the rear axle shift”, was relevant...

I knew that the desire to bash would result in losing reason and biting the hook… LOL

Flyer

I have not done a Drag Link flip or anything. I was thinking about raising my track bar bracket (getting a new one welded on). Would that help? I'd rather do this the right way (or best way) and it may improve my steering in the process. It appears that my axle is well centered when the wheels are on the ground flat. I actually have a set of the AEV brackets and mentioned the Nemesis ones because they mention the weld-on aspect even though it is a bolt-on bracket. I suppose any could be welded on.

This Drag Link thing got me thinking though. What parts would I need? I guess I should do a bit of research before buying anything. I currently just have the JKS track bar in front as well as an Artec truss welded on to the axle housing. I was not getting email notifications for some reason so will check this thread often. Thanks for all the help so far, guys!

TheDirtman

You would need a raised bracket at the axle side. Artec makes a bracket for your truss, a drag link that can have the wheel side TRE flipped to the top position. Synergy makes a model that can run either way. You simply drill out the knuckle with a taper bit or use a tapered bushing in it to allow the TRE to be mounted to the top of the knuckle. Reid knuckles are already set up for a drag link flip if you had ever thought about upgrading to them. It is actually pretty simple to do if you can drill a hole and weld the axle bracket. Cost in the range of $300-400 if you drill your own knuckle and have to purchase a new drag link.

SoK66

At around 3" lift a drag link flip along with matching track bar axle side raise starts to pay off. You are right in the target zone. As for the lower front shock mount, once the suspension is lifted and shock travel increased you'll get shock body to frame interference. AEV, Nemesis, Synergy and others make bolt on brackets that move the shock mount outward to eliminate the rub. I've seen a couple guys just mount the to the outside of the bracket with a sleeve inside it. Best fix is to just cut the shock mount bracket off & weld on a stronger new one spaced outward about 1-1.5". All the aftermarket housings make this modification.

kssting

Hey Flyer my ears were ringing

I think the biggest reason my shock doesn't make contact is because of the front TF 44 since the shock mounts are out further like Sok66 mentioned but the axle also has a raised trackbar bracket. I have the Synergy tie rod and draglink but it's not flipped. With the raised bracket everything is nice and parallel.

D_engel

Can you please post a picture of this?

kssting

Here you go. It's hard to get a great picture since the jeep is in the garage. Like a Flyer I am running the 3" Synergy springs.

JE8154

You have a raised track bar bracket but you're running it in the second lowest position.

kssting

Okay what's the point? The trackbar is inline with the draglink.