Do I need to outboard my front shocks?
#1
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Do I need to outboard my front shocks?
I have a 2014 JKUR on 35s with Rancho 9000XL shocks (the longer ones for a 4-6 inch lift). I have a 3" lift and 35" MTRs. So anyway, my Jeep was up on a lift the other day while we were doing some work to it and my buddy noticed that the right front shock was just touching the frame rail near the very top inner side of the shock as the axle (at droop) had shifted. So that made me a bit concerned that at full droop, the shock would keep doing that and eventually fail. Is this a valid concern?
My only solution to this is to use those brackets that move the shock outboard. I'd prefer weld-on ones by Nemesis, for example. However, I want to make sure that this is truly a valid concern before I move the shocks outboard by welding on brackets. The shocks also look very straight now and moving them 2 inches out would keep that at a slight slant. That is probably not a big deal but something I thought of. What do you guys think? Should I do this or is it unnecessary?
The front of my JKUR also has a JKS track bar, Bilstein steering stabilizer, AEV drop brackets, stock CAs, and Synergy 3" coil springs. I also have an Artec truss and Teraflex C-gussets.
My only solution to this is to use those brackets that move the shock outboard. I'd prefer weld-on ones by Nemesis, for example. However, I want to make sure that this is truly a valid concern before I move the shocks outboard by welding on brackets. The shocks also look very straight now and moving them 2 inches out would keep that at a slight slant. That is probably not a big deal but something I thought of. What do you guys think? Should I do this or is it unnecessary?
The front of my JKUR also has a JKS track bar, Bilstein steering stabilizer, AEV drop brackets, stock CAs, and Synergy 3" coil springs. I also have an Artec truss and Teraflex C-gussets.
#3
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Thanks. I guess I will look for a bracket that is weld-on like the Nemesis ones. The strange thing is my buddy has the same setup (same springs and shocks) but his does not get as close to the frame.
#4
Have you done a drag link flip by any chance? Having a raised trackbar that is closer to parallel will minimize axle shift under droop or compression.
(p.s. please dont let this become another CRC discussion thread...)
#5
JK Jedi
It would be better if you could move the bottom mounts out for better stability and what D_engle said about the track bar is a valid point. If you keep it as flat as possible it will reduce the amount of side shift you get in the axle.
#6
JK Jedi
this got me thinking so I went out and jacked my jeep up and let the front end dangle. my front is centered to within 1/8" using adjustable jk track bar. I have shocks that are 27.5" extended 16.4 compressed. the driver side has a ton of clearance and the passenger side does not touch but is close. it is only this way at absolute full droop and just at the very bottom of the frame/top of the shock body. crap one more thing to worry about .
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#8
his trackbar is probably adjusted further towards the passenger side. You can try doing the same to keep the shock from contacting the frame.
Have you done a drag link flip by any chance? Having a raised trackbar that is closer to parallel will minimize axle shift under droop or compression.
(p.s. please dont let this become another CRC discussion thread...)
Have you done a drag link flip by any chance? Having a raised trackbar that is closer to parallel will minimize axle shift under droop or compression.
(p.s. please dont let this become another CRC discussion thread...)
A CRC Link prevents the rear axle shift.
Last edited by GJeep; 06-06-2015 at 12:10 PM.
#9
JK Jedi