DIY toe in adjustment gone horribly wrong!!
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DIY toe in adjustment gone horribly wrong!!
Well I read through the diy toe in adjustment and thought I would give it a try. Before I started I measured 1/8" toe out. I loosened the pinch bolt and pb blasted the crap out of the threads. I put a pipe wrench on the adjuster and could not get it to budge. After another round of pb blaster and heat I tried the pipe wrench again. This time I finally got some movement. Unfortunately it moved because the adjustment head broke off of the threaded portion.
I assume I will have to unbolt the tie rod from the driver's side and try to spin everything out. Any suggestions on how to handle it?
I assume I will have to unbolt the tie rod from the driver's side and try to spin everything out. Any suggestions on how to handle it?
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That was't really all that helpful, I'm not really even sure I even know what you mean. FWIW this is the thread I followed https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...-End-Alignment
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Just did this last night... Same thing happened to me. The part you need is called a tie rod sleeve, and I bought it at the dealer for $60. I didn't get any pics, but here is what you need to do. Before doing any of this, get a measurement of where your wheels are in relation to one another. Mine were 55.25" at the points where i measured. Yours will be different. It helps to soak everything the night before in penetrating oil of some kind the night before.
1. Jack up the driver's side of the vehicle and remove the wheel.
2. Remove the clamp that goes over the end of the tie rod.
3. Mine has a dual steering stabilizer held on by U bolts also over the tie rod, so i removed it too.
4. Unbolt the tie rod end itself. Your tie rod should move freely
5. Get a pipe wrench, vise grips, whatever, and start turning things out. The tie rod should come first.
6. Remove the broken collar of the tie rod sleeve, throw in the garbage.
7. Here is where luck comes in. Hopefully the collar broke off and left you enough thread sticking out of the tie rod to get a grip on it with your vise grips or pipe wrench. THAT PIECE STUCK IN YOUR TIE ROD HAS A REVERSE THREAD. Very important to remember.
8. Either it's out now, or you're fuming mad because you've warped it, and it won't turn. Either way, DON'T PANIC.
9. If you look at your tie rod, there are two slits one top, and one bottom. You can carefully cut the threaded portion of the sleeve in half via those two slits, using a hacksaw blade, recip saw, grinder, whatever. Your main goal here is to BE CAREFUL, and to NOT MAR THE THREADS on the inside of your tie rod. If you must cut it, the width of your cut should allow you to wiggle it out of there without too much hassle.
10. Once you have that piece out, coat the inside of the tie rod, the threads on the tie rod end, and the threaded potion of the new sleeve in anti-seize, and start turning things back together. Try to get it as close as possible to your original measurements.
11. Visit an alignment shop ASAP. Your "pretty close" on your measuring tape is a mile out on an alignment machine
Whole job shouldn't be more than an couple of hours. Hope this helps out a little!
1. Jack up the driver's side of the vehicle and remove the wheel.
2. Remove the clamp that goes over the end of the tie rod.
3. Mine has a dual steering stabilizer held on by U bolts also over the tie rod, so i removed it too.
4. Unbolt the tie rod end itself. Your tie rod should move freely
5. Get a pipe wrench, vise grips, whatever, and start turning things out. The tie rod should come first.
6. Remove the broken collar of the tie rod sleeve, throw in the garbage.
7. Here is where luck comes in. Hopefully the collar broke off and left you enough thread sticking out of the tie rod to get a grip on it with your vise grips or pipe wrench. THAT PIECE STUCK IN YOUR TIE ROD HAS A REVERSE THREAD. Very important to remember.
8. Either it's out now, or you're fuming mad because you've warped it, and it won't turn. Either way, DON'T PANIC.
9. If you look at your tie rod, there are two slits one top, and one bottom. You can carefully cut the threaded portion of the sleeve in half via those two slits, using a hacksaw blade, recip saw, grinder, whatever. Your main goal here is to BE CAREFUL, and to NOT MAR THE THREADS on the inside of your tie rod. If you must cut it, the width of your cut should allow you to wiggle it out of there without too much hassle.
10. Once you have that piece out, coat the inside of the tie rod, the threads on the tie rod end, and the threaded potion of the new sleeve in anti-seize, and start turning things back together. Try to get it as close as possible to your original measurements.
11. Visit an alignment shop ASAP. Your "pretty close" on your measuring tape is a mile out on an alignment machine
Whole job shouldn't be more than an couple of hours. Hope this helps out a little!
Last edited by Canondale; 03-26-2012 at 04:13 AM.
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Missed this one.... You wont need a pickle fork for that... At least i didn't... Just a gentle tap with the BFH should set it free. And it will be fine, just check your threads when you get it off.
#7
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Have a pickle fork on hand either way, Mine were a bitch to get off when I replaced my Tie rod, and If you're gonna spend $60 bucks on a factory part why not just spend a bit more and get something that isn't so fragile? I say upgrade it.
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#8
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Is there an upgrade to a tie rod sleeve? I would think due to the inner dimensions of the tie rod, and the outer dimensions of the tie rod end, that you wouldn't be able to fit anything beefier in there without also upgrading the rod or the end or both. If you went with a thicker walled sleeve, you would need a smaller TRE. So you are moving the weak point. I'd much prefer to have a sleeve go than a broken TRE. Make sense? I didn't look into that, but just a guess! And you're right, having a pickle fork nearby is never a bad idea!
#9
Is there an upgrade to a tie rod sleeve? I would think due to the inner dimensions of the tie rod, and the outer dimensions of the tie rod end, that you wouldn't be able to fit anything beefier in there without also upgrading the rod or the end or both. If you went with a thicker walled sleeve, you would need a smaller TRE. So you are moving the weak point. I'd much prefer to have a sleeve go than a broken TRE. Make sense? I didn't look into that, but just a guess! And you're right, having a pickle fork nearby is never a bad idea!
I think fadeout was implying upgrade the whole Tie Rod to a beefier one. Anytime you can upgrade components to something better and stronger, i would for sure. especially if its already broken, excuse to upgrade...
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Oh by all means then! If you don't mind spending a few extra bucks and doing the work, then beef it up!