DIY Tie Rod
#11
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Yea, clearance is pretty important right now. 4.5" BS on a 8.5 wide -6mm offset wheel. About to throw on SOLID diff covers too.
#12
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Fair point. I am not a huge fan of rocks. I prefer dunes and trails over crawling. 1.5 works for me, fusion4x4 has 1 ton tie rods with 1.5 aluminum and 2.5 ton ends with 1.75 aluminum rods. If you find yourself bending 1.75 then I'm not sure if anyone can save you!
#13
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Just noting that we have a 1 ton tie rod that uses 1.5" solid 7075 aluminum and offset 1 ton ends. 10% off and free shipping. Solid value. A little over $300 shipped.
Chromoly isn't worth the cost unless you heat treat it. That's what makes the Synergy strong. You can machine heat treated tube as it can't be machined or welded. So, you have a big cost in finding and paying for the correct heat treatment. That's especially true if you are running hydro assist. The Synergy will flex under enough force. The only chromo tie rod out there designed to handle hydro assist is the Currie, which is something like $700 and not as strong as our 2.5 ton tie rod.
We also sell machined aluminum. Ruff Stuff went off and made some cheaper 1 ton ends. If you are buying your own ends, buy from another source.
If you are going to weld bungs in yourself, you need to be a legit welder and familiar with the process. Most people end up having to tap the threads after welding. Factor in the cost for taps. The LH thread is pricey.
Chromoly isn't worth the cost unless you heat treat it. That's what makes the Synergy strong. You can machine heat treated tube as it can't be machined or welded. So, you have a big cost in finding and paying for the correct heat treatment. That's especially true if you are running hydro assist. The Synergy will flex under enough force. The only chromo tie rod out there designed to handle hydro assist is the Currie, which is something like $700 and not as strong as our 2.5 ton tie rod.
We also sell machined aluminum. Ruff Stuff went off and made some cheaper 1 ton ends. If you are buying your own ends, buy from another source.
If you are going to weld bungs in yourself, you need to be a legit welder and familiar with the process. Most people end up having to tap the threads after welding. Factor in the cost for taps. The LH thread is pricey.
#14
JK Jedi
Just noting that we have a 1 ton tie rod that uses 1.5" solid 7075 aluminum and offset 1 ton ends. 10% off and free shipping. Solid value. A little over $300 shipped.
Chromoly isn't worth the cost unless you heat treat it. That's what makes the Synergy strong. You can machine heat treated tube as it can't be machined or welded. So, you have a big cost in finding and paying for the correct heat treatment. That's especially true if you are running hydro assist. The Synergy will flex under enough force. The only chromo tie rod out there designed to handle hydro assist is the Currie, which is something like $700 and not as strong as our 2.5 ton tie rod.
We also sell machined aluminum. Ruff Stuff went off and made some cheaper 1 ton ends. If you are buying your own ends, buy from another source.
If you are going to weld bungs in yourself, you need to be a legit welder and familiar with the process. Most people end up having to tap the threads after welding. Factor in the cost for taps. The LH thread is pricey.
Chromoly isn't worth the cost unless you heat treat it. That's what makes the Synergy strong. You can machine heat treated tube as it can't be machined or welded. So, you have a big cost in finding and paying for the correct heat treatment. That's especially true if you are running hydro assist. The Synergy will flex under enough force. The only chromo tie rod out there designed to handle hydro assist is the Currie, which is something like $700 and not as strong as our 2.5 ton tie rod.
We also sell machined aluminum. Ruff Stuff went off and made some cheaper 1 ton ends. If you are buying your own ends, buy from another source.
If you are going to weld bungs in yourself, you need to be a legit welder and familiar with the process. Most people end up having to tap the threads after welding. Factor in the cost for taps. The LH thread is pricey.
#15
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I've heard nothing but good things about ruff stuff 1 ton ends. You have had bad experiences?
#16
Just noting that we have a 1 ton tie rod that uses 1.5" solid 7075 aluminum and offset 1 ton ends. 10% off and free shipping. Solid value. A little over $300 shipped.
Chromoly isn't worth the cost unless you heat treat it. That's what makes the Synergy strong. You can machine heat treated tube as it can't be machined or welded. So, you have a big cost in finding and paying for the correct heat treatment. That's especially true if you are running hydro assist. The Synergy will flex under enough force. The only chromo tie rod out there designed to handle hydro assist is the Currie, which is something like $700 and not as strong as our 2.5 ton tie rod.
We also sell machined aluminum. Ruff Stuff went off and made some cheaper 1 ton ends. If you are buying your own ends, buy from another source.
If you are going to weld bungs in yourself, you need to be a legit welder and familiar with the process. Most people end up having to tap the threads after welding. Factor in the cost for taps. The LH thread is pricey.
Chromoly isn't worth the cost unless you heat treat it. That's what makes the Synergy strong. You can machine heat treated tube as it can't be machined or welded. So, you have a big cost in finding and paying for the correct heat treatment. That's especially true if you are running hydro assist. The Synergy will flex under enough force. The only chromo tie rod out there designed to handle hydro assist is the Currie, which is something like $700 and not as strong as our 2.5 ton tie rod.
We also sell machined aluminum. Ruff Stuff went off and made some cheaper 1 ton ends. If you are buying your own ends, buy from another source.
If you are going to weld bungs in yourself, you need to be a legit welder and familiar with the process. Most people end up having to tap the threads after welding. Factor in the cost for taps. The LH thread is pricey.
#17
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Just noting that we have a 1 ton tie rod that uses 1.5" solid 7075 aluminum and offset 1 ton ends. 10% off and free shipping. Solid value. A little over $300 shipped.
Chromoly isn't worth the cost unless you heat treat it. That's what makes the Synergy strong. You can machine heat treated tube as it can't be machined or welded. So, you have a big cost in finding and paying for the correct heat treatment. That's especially true if you are running hydro assist. The Synergy will flex under enough force. The only chromo tie rod out there designed to handle hydro assist is the Currie, which is something like $700 and not as strong as our 2.5 ton tie rod.
We also sell machined aluminum. Ruff Stuff went off and made some cheaper 1 ton ends. If you are buying your own ends, buy from another source.
If you are going to weld bungs in yourself, you need to be a legit welder and familiar with the process. Most people end up having to tap the threads after welding. Factor in the cost for taps. The LH thread is pricey.
Chromoly isn't worth the cost unless you heat treat it. That's what makes the Synergy strong. You can machine heat treated tube as it can't be machined or welded. So, you have a big cost in finding and paying for the correct heat treatment. That's especially true if you are running hydro assist. The Synergy will flex under enough force. The only chromo tie rod out there designed to handle hydro assist is the Currie, which is something like $700 and not as strong as our 2.5 ton tie rod.
We also sell machined aluminum. Ruff Stuff went off and made some cheaper 1 ton ends. If you are buying your own ends, buy from another source.
If you are going to weld bungs in yourself, you need to be a legit welder and familiar with the process. Most people end up having to tap the threads after welding. Factor in the cost for taps. The LH thread is pricey.
#18
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Our investment is in our flagship 2.5 ton stuff. Yes, a little on the expensive side, but it is the last tie rod you will ever buy. If you bend it, your Jeep is likely totaled! Lifetime warranty on the ends (so long as you grease them). We see it every day where people spend $200-$350 on a tie rod that won't be their last. They bend, ends wear out, and many are known to flex when used with hydro assist (especially the most popular option out there).
Our one ton tie rod is nice, but the ends will wear out just like all the other JK stuff out there, and that is an incremental cost in the future. The logic to the 2.5 ton stuff is that it is designed to not wear out and therefore we can provide a lifetime warranty. Plus, it is as simple as unscrewing a cartridge and screwing a new one in. No toe to adjust, etc. There are some items that are worth spending money on up front. Bent tie rods are no fun.
It really comes down to your wheeling style, tire size, and use case. If you spend $250 on a tie rod, you aren't going to be surprised when you come down hard on a rock and it bends. Spend $350 and you will be disappointed it bends, but not shocked when the rod ends wear out a year or two down the road.
#19
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We use the GM offset ends like most everyone else. It clears the diff and is a lower cost option that us having custom forgings made. The only downside is that you need 4.5" of backspace or less. The price would be in the $400+ range if we went with custom forgings. By the time you take our 10% forum discount on the 2.5 ton stuff, there is no reason to go with the 1 ton.
Our investment is in our flagship 2.5 ton stuff. Yes, a little on the expensive side, but it is the last tie rod you will ever buy. If you bend it, your Jeep is likely totaled! Lifetime warranty on the ends (so long as you grease them). We see it every day where people spend $200-$350 on a tie rod that won't be their last. They bend, ends wear out, and many are known to flex when used with hydro assist (especially the most popular option out there).
Our one ton tie rod is nice, but the ends will wear out just like all the other JK stuff out there, and that is an incremental cost in the future. The logic to the 2.5 ton stuff is that it is designed to not wear out and therefore we can provide a lifetime warranty. Plus, it is as simple as unscrewing a cartridge and screwing a new one in. No toe to adjust, etc. There are some items that are worth spending money on up front. Bent tie rods are no fun.
It really comes down to your wheeling style, tire size, and use case. If you spend $250 on a tie rod, you aren't going to be surprised when you come down hard on a rock and it bends. Spend $350 and you will be disappointed it bends, but not shocked when the rod ends wear out a year or two down the road.
Our investment is in our flagship 2.5 ton stuff. Yes, a little on the expensive side, but it is the last tie rod you will ever buy. If you bend it, your Jeep is likely totaled! Lifetime warranty on the ends (so long as you grease them). We see it every day where people spend $200-$350 on a tie rod that won't be their last. They bend, ends wear out, and many are known to flex when used with hydro assist (especially the most popular option out there).
Our one ton tie rod is nice, but the ends will wear out just like all the other JK stuff out there, and that is an incremental cost in the future. The logic to the 2.5 ton stuff is that it is designed to not wear out and therefore we can provide a lifetime warranty. Plus, it is as simple as unscrewing a cartridge and screwing a new one in. No toe to adjust, etc. There are some items that are worth spending money on up front. Bent tie rods are no fun.
It really comes down to your wheeling style, tire size, and use case. If you spend $250 on a tie rod, you aren't going to be surprised when you come down hard on a rock and it bends. Spend $350 and you will be disappointed it bends, but not shocked when the rod ends wear out a year or two down the road.
^^I agree. Right now, unfortunately it is about getting on the road again within budget. I have some major upcoming expenses and a move mid summer so we will see.
#20
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We use the GM offset ends like most everyone else. It clears the diff and is a lower cost option that us having custom forgings made. The only downside is that you need 4.5" of backspace or less. The price would be in the $400+ range if we went with custom forgings. By the time you take our 10% forum discount on the 2.5 ton stuff, there is no reason to go with the 1 ton.
Our investment is in our flagship 2.5 ton stuff. Yes, a little on the expensive side, but it is the last tie rod you will ever buy. If you bend it, your Jeep is likely totaled! Lifetime warranty on the ends (so long as you grease them). We see it every day where people spend $200-$350 on a tie rod that won't be their last. They bend, ends wear out, and many are known to flex when used with hydro assist (especially the most popular option out there).
Our one ton tie rod is nice, but the ends will wear out just like all the other JK stuff out there, and that is an incremental cost in the future. The logic to the 2.5 ton stuff is that it is designed to not wear out and therefore we can provide a lifetime warranty. Plus, it is as simple as unscrewing a cartridge and screwing a new one in. No toe to adjust, etc. There are some items that are worth spending money on up front. Bent tie rods are no fun.
It really comes down to your wheeling style, tire size, and use case. If you spend $250 on a tie rod, you aren't going to be surprised when you come down hard on a rock and it bends. Spend $350 and you will be disappointed it bends, but not shocked when the rod ends wear out a year or two down the road.
Our investment is in our flagship 2.5 ton stuff. Yes, a little on the expensive side, but it is the last tie rod you will ever buy. If you bend it, your Jeep is likely totaled! Lifetime warranty on the ends (so long as you grease them). We see it every day where people spend $200-$350 on a tie rod that won't be their last. They bend, ends wear out, and many are known to flex when used with hydro assist (especially the most popular option out there).
Our one ton tie rod is nice, but the ends will wear out just like all the other JK stuff out there, and that is an incremental cost in the future. The logic to the 2.5 ton stuff is that it is designed to not wear out and therefore we can provide a lifetime warranty. Plus, it is as simple as unscrewing a cartridge and screwing a new one in. No toe to adjust, etc. There are some items that are worth spending money on up front. Bent tie rods are no fun.
It really comes down to your wheeling style, tire size, and use case. If you spend $250 on a tie rod, you aren't going to be surprised when you come down hard on a rock and it bends. Spend $350 and you will be disappointed it bends, but not shocked when the rod ends wear out a year or two down the road.