Looking to build my own tie rod to save on cost. I know to buy lh/rh bungs, jam nuts, tre's, and tube. I'm mostly unsure of the tube to use. Not sure what wall thickness, tube length, etc to be looking at. Anyone who has done this, do you have issues with clearance?

 

I have used 1.75 x. 25 and 1.5 x. 25 dom. If i recall both had to be bent. I bent the 1.5 od the first trip out. If you use heims make sure they have at least some misalignment.

 

If I'm using an offset tie rod end, like a dog leg or something similar do you still think it needs to be bent for clearance? I was looking at 1.5 OD x.120 wall and 1.375 OD x .120 wall. Possibly 4130.

 

Im not sure, i used heims. Id go larger and bigger wall even if 4130...id say my bends pushed it out maybe 2"? I can look back. I dont know how far the offsets push it out.

 

You can use the Ruff Stuff TRE's but then you need to ream the knuckles for them to seat correctly and not flop real bad. I went thru two 1 1/2x1/4 DOM rods before I finally gave up and got a Synergy rod. No problems since switching.

 

I'd prefer not to ream anything yet. Also, anyone heard that having welded components in steering linkage is illegal in most states? Thus why companies that sell TRs sell threaded tube.

 

If you dont mind looking back when you get a chance that would be great!

 

Ill have to guesstimate off old build pics as i have a d60 now and no access to a d44 easily. But i can look this afternoon. My d60 fit with heims but i had to grind my dif cover a tad...

 

Here's a guide I used for my tie rod. I ended up going with Wide Open Designs aluminum7075 tube. It comes threaded however you want so you can just skip the bungs step. Buy a L and R offset ende from RuffStuff and a tapered sleeve for each knuckle.
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Everything was purchased from Ruff Stuff with the exception of the offset TRE's which are currently on backorder on the site.

I decided to document the whole process to serve as a guideline for others looking to replace the stock components without breaking the bank. I will separate this write-up into two posts for those only looking to replace one component at a time.

Tie Rod

Parts:
54" Length 1.5" .25 Wall DOM
(1) LH 7/8" Hex Head TRE Tube Adapter 18TPI
(1) RH 7/8" Hex Head TRE Tube Adapter 18TPI
(1) LH GM 1 Ton Offset TRE
(1) RH GM 1 Ton Offset TRE

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1) Take a measurement of the stock tie rod from the center of the tie rod ends. This measurement does not have to be exact since the new tie rod is adjustable. In my case, my tie rod was set at 59 inches.
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2) Assemble the offset TRE's with the jam nut threaded all the way forward and 1/2" of threads exposed in front of the bung. Measure the length of the TRE assembly from the center of the joint to the end of the bung. In my case, this measured 3.75".
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3) Now mark your tubing for the cut. It will be the overall length of the stock tie rod - (2) length of TRE assembly. In my case this is 59"-(2 x 3.75")= 51.5"
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4) Tape off the cut line and make the cut with the tool of your choosing (chop saw, ban saw, cutting wheel)
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5) Clean the edges of the tubing and grind a 45* bevel with your grinder. This will help ensure adequate penetration during welding.
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6) Slide the bungs in the tube and weld using the machine of your choice. I will be using my Miller Diversion 180 TIG for this application (Go easy on me. This is my first real TIG project).
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7) Prep your metal and paint the finished product. Allow 24 hours curing time before installing the TRE's and installing on the Jeep.
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So 1.5 must clear but depending on the wheeling id not trust it. Mine bent the first trip in the rocks. Aluminum may be more flexible but i have never run any aluminum stuff...