Different Gear Question - Towing + Auto + Gears
01-12-2012, 05:20 PM
#11
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Mileage sucked. But no issues at all running this engine over 3k. Not optimal, of course, and not a range I would choose for a dedicated tow rig. But for my 'usual' 15-30 mile drives to the lakes, and a once yearly extended 10-14 hour trip, it's acceptable.
Since my non-tow driving far exceeds my towing time, I know that moving from 5.13 to 5.38 was right for me, and there is no way that I would be happy with 4.88 or 4.56. I guess all you can do is factor in all of your specific variables to make an educated guess at it.
Since my non-tow driving far exceeds my towing time, I know that moving from 5.13 to 5.38 was right for me, and there is no way that I would be happy with 4.88 or 4.56. I guess all you can do is factor in all of your specific variables to make an educated guess at it.
01-12-2012, 06:00 PM
#12
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I have had an about 3K Aliner a frame trailer for two years now that I have pulled it all over the Western Slope of Colorado and back and forth from Colorado to Socal.
My jeep is an '08 Rubicon Automatic - the first few months with the trailer were on stock tires with the stock 4.10 gearing. I went to 33's right after that and it sucked pulling in the mountains. A year ago I went to 5.38's with the 33" tires and was very pleased. And also with a superchips in tow tune. Heck, the 5.38's should have been my first mod - the towing was perfect and the 4 low off road was ok but maybe just a little too low.
Last summer I went to 35's and all is perfect now - still great towing and great trail manners in 4 low. I can also now use the 4hi offroad for some faster stuff now that I could not do before. I do have a transmission cooler and I have had a Scanguage for years but just last week got the codes to let the trans temp readout. When on the flat and slight grade I can leave the trans in overdrive with the trailer. My mileage with and without the trailer is right about 15 mpg.
It's a whole different jeep with the 5:38's - good acceleration - just more fun to drive!
I think the 5.38 are perfect - for me - for rock crawling and general trail use. And, I know I could go with 37's if I wanted but that would kill my good trailer towing and probably will not happen anyway.
I've talked to a number of JK and JKU owners who pull trailers in the mountains and those that went with 5:13's wished and some did regear again to 5:38's.
Good luck with your choice!
My jeep is an '08 Rubicon Automatic - the first few months with the trailer were on stock tires with the stock 4.10 gearing. I went to 33's right after that and it sucked pulling in the mountains. A year ago I went to 5.38's with the 33" tires and was very pleased. And also with a superchips in tow tune. Heck, the 5.38's should have been my first mod - the towing was perfect and the 4 low off road was ok but maybe just a little too low.
Last summer I went to 35's and all is perfect now - still great towing and great trail manners in 4 low. I can also now use the 4hi offroad for some faster stuff now that I could not do before. I do have a transmission cooler and I have had a Scanguage for years but just last week got the codes to let the trans temp readout. When on the flat and slight grade I can leave the trans in overdrive with the trailer. My mileage with and without the trailer is right about 15 mpg.
It's a whole different jeep with the 5:38's - good acceleration - just more fun to drive!
I think the 5.38 are perfect - for me - for rock crawling and general trail use. And, I know I could go with 37's if I wanted but that would kill my good trailer towing and probably will not happen anyway.
I've talked to a number of JK and JKU owners who pull trailers in the mountains and those that went with 5:13's wished and some did regear again to 5:38's.
Good luck with your choice!
02-12-2012, 06:56 AM
#14
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OK, I'm currently running stock 32s with my 4.10 gears. I'm debating 33s or 35s in the next few months and I'm concerned about my towing ability once I do. Re-gearing is definitely on the "to do" list once I go to bigger tires but it won't be in the budget at the same time. I was planning 5.13 if I go 35s since this should be an improvement over 4.10s and 32's, according to this chart: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/uplo...atio-chart.jpg
I tow a 3,000+ travel trailer over some steep inclines several times a year. Some at highway speeds (55 mph), some on mountain roads where speeds are much slower. So, let's say I get the 35s that I want...
1) When pulling a steep incline (say up to 11%), are we saying that 5.38 gears will help me up that hill easier than 5.13s? At what cost?
2) What will that same hill be like with my stock 4.10 gears and 35s? Can I just put the tranny in 2nd and basically make it up that way?
3) How does putting the tranny in 4HI or 4LO help towing? I thought it simply transferred a percentage of torque to each tire. I always thought of it as a traction thing, not a towing thing.
I tow a 3,000+ travel trailer over some steep inclines several times a year. Some at highway speeds (55 mph), some on mountain roads where speeds are much slower. So, let's say I get the 35s that I want...
1) When pulling a steep incline (say up to 11%), are we saying that 5.38 gears will help me up that hill easier than 5.13s? At what cost?
2) What will that same hill be like with my stock 4.10 gears and 35s? Can I just put the tranny in 2nd and basically make it up that way?
3) How does putting the tranny in 4HI or 4LO help towing? I thought it simply transferred a percentage of torque to each tire. I always thought of it as a traction thing, not a towing thing.
02-12-2012, 09:56 AM
#15
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Sorry about the negative space around this, but something I did long ago.
As planman mentioned, towing around a 3,000lb trailer requires a lot of extra power, and most importantly is getting it rolling. You really need a big hammer to get that much mass moving, so roll out torque is going to take precedence over highway rpms. The quicker you get into the toque band to get things moving, the less stress you'll put on driveline components.
What's listed at good below in the teal was meant for a JK alone with minimal weight. Add a trailer, and you definitely need to bump it. By the time you've put all that together, you're pretty much going to end up at buying the right gears for your JK when you aren't pulling your trailer, and stomach the higher rpms when you are with OD off.
As planman mentioned, towing around a 3,000lb trailer requires a lot of extra power, and most importantly is getting it rolling. You really need a big hammer to get that much mass moving, so roll out torque is going to take precedence over highway rpms. The quicker you get into the toque band to get things moving, the less stress you'll put on driveline components.
What's listed at good below in the teal was meant for a JK alone with minimal weight. Add a trailer, and you definitely need to bump it. By the time you've put all that together, you're pretty much going to end up at buying the right gears for your JK when you aren't pulling your trailer, and stomach the higher rpms when you are with OD off.
02-12-2012, 11:22 AM
#16
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Sorry about the negative space around this, but something I did long ago.
As planman mentioned, towing around a 3,000lb trailer requires a lot of extra power, and most importantly is getting it rolling. You really need a big hammer to get that much mass moving, so roll out torque is going to take precedence over highway rpms. The quicker you get into the toque band to get things moving, the less stress you'll put on driveline components.
What's listed at good below in the teal was meant for a JK alone with minimal weight. Add a trailer, and you definitely need to bump it. By the time you've put all that together, you're pretty much going to end up at buying the right gears for your JK when you aren't pulling your trailer, and stomach the higher rpms when you are with OD off.
As planman mentioned, towing around a 3,000lb trailer requires a lot of extra power, and most importantly is getting it rolling. You really need a big hammer to get that much mass moving, so roll out torque is going to take precedence over highway rpms. The quicker you get into the toque band to get things moving, the less stress you'll put on driveline components.
What's listed at good below in the teal was meant for a JK alone with minimal weight. Add a trailer, and you definitely need to bump it. By the time you've put all that together, you're pretty much going to end up at buying the right gears for your JK when you aren't pulling your trailer, and stomach the higher rpms when you are with OD off.
02-12-2012, 12:33 PM
#17
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Sorry Hombres,
That chart was built out strictly for people who were going to roll out on new plus size tires without a re-gear. It has nothing to do with towing. In fact I should get rid of the thing as it should never be interpreted as a chart for towing or heavily loaded JKs.
Remember for towing you want torque, not necessarily just the power to keep a vehicle rolling. So the closer you are to peak torque the at cruise speeds the more load you'll be able to deal with. The more torque you have the bigger stump you can pull which in this case serves as your trailer.
I would also take a look at the window of how I could get to peak torque or at least close when kicking down a gear landing from 3500-4000 rpm. So with OD on, that's still going to throw you into a gear set that operates at 2400-2800 rpm cruise speeds when you aren't towing.
That chart was built out strictly for people who were going to roll out on new plus size tires without a re-gear. It has nothing to do with towing. In fact I should get rid of the thing as it should never be interpreted as a chart for towing or heavily loaded JKs.
Remember for towing you want torque, not necessarily just the power to keep a vehicle rolling. So the closer you are to peak torque the at cruise speeds the more load you'll be able to deal with. The more torque you have the bigger stump you can pull which in this case serves as your trailer.
I would also take a look at the window of how I could get to peak torque or at least close when kicking down a gear landing from 3500-4000 rpm. So with OD on, that's still going to throw you into a gear set that operates at 2400-2800 rpm cruise speeds when you aren't towing.
05-19-2013, 11:28 PM
#18
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Just a question in the same regard. I am seriously thinking off doing the 35s and I will eventualy re gear I just dont have the means to to do it now. I dont tow as heavy but I would say total load in jeep and trailer about 2000lbs (people asside) so some in car and rest or most on the trailer. Towing happens over short dictances about furthest 200miles max I would say. if I dont re gear what can I expect to happen?
Say does it go in to 2nd gear often and over revs or would you be able to drive at say 50-55 in 3rd reving modderate? I am trying to get a feel for how severe it is and if I would be able to manage for a year or two before re gearing..... The charts help but as said on this thread the chart excludes towing and before towing your O/D is lost with 35s
I have a rubi JKU Auto with 4.1s
Say does it go in to 2nd gear often and over revs or would you be able to drive at say 50-55 in 3rd reving modderate? I am trying to get a feel for how severe it is and if I would be able to manage for a year or two before re gearing..... The charts help but as said on this thread the chart excludes towing and before towing your O/D is lost with 35s
I have a rubi JKU Auto with 4.1s
05-20-2013, 05:41 AM
#19
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The OD off chart was built for exactly the purposes described. It's less than ideal, but it will also keep your revs up high enough so you don't have power loss through an unlocked converter and the inefficiencies of gear hunting. Without a lot more detail with the type of terrain you drive on and at what speeds you can't discern the ideal gear set, but with 4.10s, OD off and 35s with a trailer, you shouldn't have any problems with on road driving.