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Death wobble.....yes another thread.

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Old 12-15-2020, 03:40 AM
  #11  
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My brother in law is having the exact same issues and we've changed everything on that front end. Our next step is to tighten the steering box a bit (with the adjuster screw). Have you tried that yet?

Last edited by T&ERun; 12-15-2020 at 03:42 AM.
Old 12-15-2020, 06:56 AM
  #12  
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Chasing the exact same thing you are (random DW over 40mph when hit bump in the road just right). Weird thing is that it only happens when I'm the Jeep by myself. When my wife gets in, it doesn't happen. This has made the explanation on why I am spending all this $ on steering components a little dicey honestly. (I know it sounds like a punch line but its true) Can't imagine her 140lbs is enough to change something. Ball joints replaced, all bolts/ holes checked, no wheel wiggle or noise on the ground or in the air. TR & DL getting replaced in a couple days. Following the thread to see if you track down your issue.

Last edited by Maui BeachBum; 12-15-2020 at 11:05 AM.
Old 12-21-2020, 07:46 AM
  #13  
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A shimmy or slight wobble can be brought on by several things. As you've listed within those things you've done. However, you've neglected to mention if you've replaced the track bar & control arms. if you've had your alignment checked, does it say anything about the caster angle being off?

Furthermore, as seen in this video, (not my video) if your drag link & tie rod can move this easily, then the drag link & tie rod ball joints have lost their rigidity. So even though the bar can move or rotate forward & back. There's a good chance there can also rotate or move side to side.


One needs to realize that when you upgrade to larger wheels and tires, this puts undue strain on all of the ball joints. If you haven't upgraded to 1 ton or even 2 ton based on the size of your wheel/tire combo. Best look into this.

Last edited by OscarMlke; 12-30-2020 at 04:48 AM.
Old 12-21-2020, 08:55 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by OscarMlke
A shimmy or slight wobble can be brought on by several things. As you've listed within those things you've done. However, you've neglected to mention if you've replaced the track bar & control arms. if you've had your alignment checked, does it say anything about the caster angle being off?

Furthermore, as seen in this video, (not my video) if your drag link & tie rod can move this easily, then the drag link & tie rod ball joints have lost their rigidity. So even though the bar can move or rotate forward & back. There's a good chance there can also rotate or move side to side.

https://youtu.be/j6Q4BT16xBw

One needs to realize that when you upgrade to larger wheels and tires, this puts undue strain on all of the ball joints. If you haven't upgraded to 1 ton or even 2 ton based on the size of your wheel/tire combo. Best look into this.
nope mentioned the track bar was replaced with a yeti. Control arms and bushings are factory. I haven’t had a recent alignment but caster is only adjustable per the AEV geometry correction brackets. I verified that they are at the correct hole and have tried other holes in the past with no improvement. Also mentioned above that I just replaced both the drag link and tie rod which both are on 1 ton ends from Barnes.

my latest efforts have noted slight wallowing of the track bar hole on the frame mount. I’m going to install a yeti bracket to fix this as well as replace the axle side bracket with a yeti there as well. I also noted the side to side flex of my upper axle control arm bushing. Contemplating replacing it with a new set of rubber bushings.

I still want to go back through the planman checklist another time to review steering box issues to see if there Is anything there. if none of this fixes it I’m gonna throw in the towel but hopefully that is t the case.



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