Renegade

Find a shop with a Hunter GPS9700 Road Force Balancer. It worked for me. It measures both tire and wheel runout (roundness).

NE Wrangling

I took mine back 3 times and it was finally in full tune. I forget the name of the roadforce balancer the shop uses but it's only 4 months old. I asked how it worked and he started to show me a printout from the computer. I actually had 1 tire that was a 38 out of 39 so I put the spare on which was 12 out of 39. This is good and it definately felt good on the directional tires (Pro Comp Xterrains)

NE Wrangling

That's the machine I brought mine too.

nepatsfn

How long before you guys come out with one? A SS that is

CIJeep

Nothing was harsh as far as I was concerned, I know my history and experience/s. A wheel hop is not a wobble. The term using "death" in its name in this case is absurd and throws out unncessary fear.

Now....For anyone that has experienced a severe shimmy/shake/wheel hop, when posting about it please observe whether it happened on a deceleration, aceleration, hitting a bump or chuck hole and make mental notes about whether or not it happened at a certain speed, speeds, or just plain old happened at every bump.

A book can be written about the causes and even then something new will come up based on design. Coil suspension can react far more violently than leaf springs.

WOL listed some very good ideas, and please listen to him about using a torque wrench.

Some other things to observe.
Use a dial runout indicator, jack up each wheel and check the wheel for run out. While doing that look at the tire, how it is seated It can make a huge difference on occasion by reseating.

While the wheel is in the are put your hand on top and at the bottom of the tire, try to rock it in/out from top to bottom and then from front to back. The causes if this happens should be easy to figure out, or post a message.

Wheels that are out of round should be replaced, it is a bounce ready to happen, balanced or no.

When the wheel is on the ground do the bounce test for the shocks. Look for oil seepage near the shock gaskets, look for rock/impact damage on the shafts, best to have them covered than left open to the elements. A kicked bare shaft can damage the seals. A fail shock will allow tire bounce, especially large tires.

Broken mounts, loose anything, pebbles stuck in the tread, a bolt stuck in the tread, sidewall etc.

After mudding, or similar clean out the freaking wheels before entering the road. A glob of mud dried on one side of the wheel after sitting a bit has just destroyed any previous balance job. Clean it off, watching to make sure you did not knock your weights off.

Loose tie rod ends, shimmy.
Steering box gears worn and lost their settings will also create wander, shimmy, sloppy steering.

Shocks not rated for your suspension, wheel/tire weights are almost as bad as no shocks.

I'll not get into old Kawaski big bores and their front ends.

If you ever get bored read up on tires, tire sizes and balance problem. Whell balance problem and don't forget that tires that are speed balanced are typically set for 50 mph and don't ask me why so low. Bubble balance ok in a pinch but I like to see the balance at various speeds and choose tires smoother at high speeds when on the road, or perhaps a Baja run and balance lower for offroading and at normal usage air pressure.

Another thing to consider is marking your tires relationship to the wheel it is on. When you air down a wheel can slip inside the tire. Guess what? There went your nice balance job.

Hope this gives you all some idea's to consider.

And to smooth out a "death wobble" you need to speed up, never slow down, and if possible pull a wheelie then clamp the brake hard and bring the front wheel to a dead stop, then slowly lower the front wheel till is touchs ground.

Obviously that was meant for motorcycles whose front forks/shocks suck.

If it is due to improper tire/wheel choices and your rear wheel breaks loose and the whole bike wobbles, pray. Pray cause it's gonna hurt.

CIJeep

I just remembered other causes. Look for spring pre-load and or shock pre-load. I was more concerned with this in short track racing but what a difference it can make.

When one changes the attitude of a vehicle just raising the front end for instance it will lighten the load on the suspension and what was previously a small or unnoticeable problem can become huge. In that instance the attitude of the car preloaded the front end.

Also, as to steering stabilizers and "bump steer" look or research front end problems on motorhomes, you'll find a lot about it. Once you understand it and the causes you can adapt and pick out a new stabilizer if that indeed is the problem. (there is a TSB on steering stabilizers and a free replacement.) If a fresh one knocks out most of the problems, then a good guess is a better one or an adaptable one.

j.k.livin

I have had the TFlex BB with shocks on for 14,000 miles, not one problem to speak of. Just wish I had a 4" lift now instead.

sliverGstoneJK

what is the toruqe settings for the front Track bar and rear track bar, i called the dealer and they told me nice and tight. just dont smush the metal bushings

bly109

125 lb ft. Make sure you torque it with all the Jeep's weight on the ground.

sliverGstoneJK

thanks man