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Death Wobble Re-Revisited

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Old 05-06-2013 | 03:12 PM
  #1  
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Angry Death Wobble Re-Revisited


Hey, Everyone.

Let me start by stating that I have read a TON about this already on the web, including the great write up by Way A Life, and I'm at a dead end. Any help/wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

The wobble started after the install of a 4" Rancho Crawler on my 2011 JK Rubicon 2 door. Also added were 35" BFG KM on 17" MT Classic III's. The frustrating part is that I've installed the much cheaper 4" Rancho Sport Kit on an '07 unlimited and had NO issues whatsoever. The wobble occurs between 20-30 mph only when I hit bumps in the road (potholes, train tracks, etc.). Sometimes the wobble corrects itself, others I have to come to a complete stop.

Here's what I've done:Have had the tires balanced twice and rotated once. The guy at Discount Tire said that he wants to try hub centric rings. I don't know why, I never had to before.

Had two alignments done at two different shops. My caster angle is positive 5 deg. Wheels are set at toe in, I've read that toe out may help?

Loosened and retorqued all bolts at ride height three times. Once myself and twice at once each at two different four wheel shops.

Installed a Rancho high clearance steering stabilizer. Later found out the shock was bad, another is on the way. Still had the wobble with the stock stabilizer.

Had the ball joints inspected at a shop. They are tight and within tolerance.

Installed a Teraflex HD adj. trac bar. This did not help at all and I had to remove it because the drop pitman arm makes contact with it when the steering wheeling is turned all the way right.

Considered replacing the drop pitman arm back to stock but, the lift kit came with a trac bar relocation bracket (which I welded to the axel) raising the axe end.

Tried lowering the tire pressure down to 28 psi, no help. running at 34 psi now.

My JK has 45,000 miles on it and I have had the kit on for about 500 miles. Again, these problems occurred immediately after the install.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!
Old 05-06-2013 | 03:54 PM
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maybe a drag link flip kit and get rid of the pitman arm. i'm sure you don't want to just keep throwing money at it blindly but I think those pitman arms are bad news...
Old 05-06-2013 | 04:30 PM
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Have you watched my 2 Diagnosis YouTube videos?
Old 05-07-2013 | 07:44 AM
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Jkfanatic - I will try putting the stock pitman arm back on for the hell of it. Been going over the geometry in my head and it just doesn't make sense with the track bar relocated, though. Been hearing this a lot so, I'll give it a go.

Planman - yes, I did. Sorry I didn't mention it, great video. I tried everything you did.
Old 05-07-2013 | 08:33 AM
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My rancho stabilizer died two weeks into having it on. I just realized this now while I was diagnosing my dw. I just ordered. New bilstein one at the suggestion of someone here.

The pitman arm has nothing to do with relocating your track bar. It's supposed to correct the geometry of your drag link. It reduces bump steer

Check your stabilizer. Mine had 3/4" of play sometimes and other times it didn't. Attach it to a vise and see if it lets go at any points.

Last edited by Dasius; 05-07-2013 at 08:36 AM.
Old 05-07-2013 | 09:18 AM
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Replace your track bar bolts with grade 8 (9/16" x 3 fine thread bolts) and check your stabilizer
Old 05-07-2013 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jeep420
Considered replacing the drop pitman arm back to stock but, the lift kit came with a trac bar relocation bracket (which I welded to the axel) raising the axe end.
This bothers me. This is poor geometry and will induce bump steer. While the drag link and the trackbar may be parallel, they are not in the same plane. The must be both parallel and in the same plane to reduce/eliminate bump steer. That means either raising axle side trackbar bracket and flipping the drag link to the top of the knuckle (which gives you a higher roll center, more stable and less body roll), or lowering the frame side trackbar bracket and using a drop pitman arm (which loweres your roll center, increasing body roll, and adds more strain to your steering box sector shaft).

Have you checked either your tie rod ends or drag link ends for any meaningful vertical play? There should be none. Use a set of channel locks and attempt to compress the joint.

Like so (this is a worn joint):
http://youtu.be/RQ9Bkfo0z9E

Last edited by JKred; 05-07-2013 at 09:52 AM.
Old 05-07-2013 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Dasius
My rancho stabilizer died two weeks into having it on. I just realized this now while I was diagnosing my dw. I just ordered. New bilstein one at the suggestion of someone here.

The pitman arm has nothing to do with relocating your track bar. It's supposed to correct the geometry of your drag link. It reduces bump steer

Check your stabilizer. Mine had 3/4" of play sometimes and other times it didn't. Attach it to a vise and see if it lets go at any points.
My stabilizer is effed. With the barrel up and extended, when I compressed it there was no resistance. New one is on the way but, I had the wobble with the stock one on. Did rancho have issues with suspension shocks as well?

So you think I should put the stock pitman arm back on?
Old 05-07-2013 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 98dropta
Replace your track bar bolts with grade 8 (9/16" x 3 fine thread bolts) and check your stabilizer
Sounds good. Planman had a video on this, will advise.
Old 05-07-2013 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JKred

This bothers me. This is poor geometry and will induce bump steer. While the drag link and the trackbar may be parallel, they are not in the same plane. The must be both parallel and in the same plane to reduce/eliminate bump steer. That means either raising axle side trackbar bracket and flipping the drag link to the top of the knuckle (which gives you a higher roll center, more stable and less body roll), or lowering the frame side trackbar bracket and using a drop pitman arm (which loweres your roll center, increasing body roll, and adds more strain to your steering box sector shaft).

Have you checked either your tie rod ends or drag link ends for any meaningful vertical play? There should be none. Use a set of channel locks and attempt to compress the joint.

Like so (this is a worn joint):
YouTube Link: http://youtu.be/RQ9Bkfo0z9E
I checked the tie rod ends and ball joints per video by Planman. They are fine.

Do you think I should put the stock pitman arm back on?



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