My jeep wobbles only between 55-60 mph and goes away below and above. Yesterday I replace drag link and tie rods and the track bar is tight and in great shape. Ball joints and all steering components were inspected. Drove it and wobble was still there. Not knowing what to do I had the tires rotated. Drove a 19 mile trip and it was as smooth as could be, just like a new jeep. Parked and went to work and when I got back in it was rough and the wobble was back.

Any ideas?

 

What tires are you running, and in what size and at what PSI? Sometimes experimenting with PSI helps with certain tires. often when it's in a small range of speed like this it turns out to be tire related. For sure it is not what we'd call Death Wobble......which will stop you down completely as you crap your pants. DW doesn't even itself out until you're almost stopped....it just builds and gets worse once it starts. When you say things are "tight", does that mean you've check actual torque specs with a torque wrench? Suspension and steering components are sensitive to actual torque specs in general.

 

Nitto 33" country AT. around 38 psi. I believe it is tires because I have a shimmer to a point all the time. Between 55-60 it is shaky but if I hit the wrong bump or sometimes when braking or slowing down on an off ramp it goes into a full blown wobble.

 

38psi is too high but won't cause a wobble. If it's in that 55-60mph range then usually it needs a balance. With you just replacing components, you'll want to ensure you hit a torque spec on them vs "tight". It sounds like you've got two issues going though. An unbalanced tire (or few) and a worn/ not up to torque spec component.

 

My mechanic says you cant torque a tie rod with a castle nut. Are you speaking about the track bar?

 

It may be doitime for a new mechanic. Teraflex (as well as other ball joint manufacturers) have a torque spec on their joints and they all take a castle nut. You torque and then, typically, go to the closest key hole without loosening.

Track bar is typically a source of shakes, so yes, that would be a good place to ensure things are adequately tight as well. Surfaces should be cleaned and not lubricated when you're putting in the track bar to ensure the metal gets a good clamp on things.

 

Your mechanic is full of malarkey. I deal with castellated nuts all the time, as Karl said you torque to spec then align with next hole for cotter pin.

Depending on where you got your tires from, most tire shops will check tire balance for free. If you wanted to go the extra mile on a rebalance ask them to Road Force balance them.

 

LOL, no doubt.

You can indeed torque a TR.....they have torque specs and you use a torque wrench when installing to ensure the castle nut is at spec. I can only guess what they are implying is you can't just sit there and gorilla arm it tighter and tighter to solve a problem. But, all your steering should be at spec.

 

Thanks for all the help. Going to balance and torque thanks